Wide Body Terrano Flares

[Big]

DD I wouldnt use bog on the raw foam..( Im a builder too ) but apply some chop strand fibreglass with resin over the top then bog and sand.. much like I did on the frp top I fixed.. Bog is not really good in that instance for what you want to do.. fibreglass would be way better.. as it'll span the holes etc go hard.. sand then fill, paint yader yader..lol you get my drift.. but looking good so far..
Worked in a boat yard for a bit and did some stuff.. with resins and glass..lol
cheers

[Dirtydog]

thats true, i dont think the foam will like the polyester i have though.

ive got some 450csm here, and some 225, i may have to do some tests before i go and slap some on.

[zukmeista]

Inspiration maybe?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/toyota/auction-579464462.htm

[Dirtydog]

dont think i like the look of them?

somethings off about them i think. needs to be brought back to the body nicely, but it is made outa steel.

[Dumbass]

Hi again, how are your guards coming along?
Not sure that you care but I thought I would share with you one of the evils of skinning cloth.
This is an extremely well made body from the usa that has a spot of damage. completely repairable but still interesting. You might be able to see that it is made from chopstrand mat on the surface and backed with the stiffer less resin rich skinning cloth. Problem is when impacted the skinning cloth delaminates quite badly. The resin they use is red and all the white area is delam. and the brown stuff is dirt hiding most of the delam.... cool huh

[Dirtydog]

That is quite interesting,

ill keep that in mind when it comes to me making mine.

still doing these flares, talked to the certifier about it yesterday (truck passed yay!!) and for what i want to do it wont need cert.

Just waiting till weather becomes a bit warmer and when i get a garage heater.

Heres the plan:

Source some terrano guards that are in good shape, then use expanding foam to get a rough shape.

decent layer of reinforced filler to give a solid base to work with

finish of with some bodyfiller followed by some high build primer to get it nice and smooth.

wax on, wax off, wax on, wax off etc

Spray of pva

layer on some tooling gelcoat followed by layers of chop strand then add bracing.

once i have layed up guards and ready to start on the back ones, ill repeat the same proccess, except i will probably cut up one of the front guards to get the same bulge profile.

[Dumbass]

yeah cold damp weather is not so much fun when playing with resin. Im on a bit of a go slow as well, with my home projects.
Just a bit of advice, always use 2k (2 pac) paint to work over, there is much less chance of a reaction/paint softening stuff up. other paints are just not worth the gamble....and the first layer of glass for your mold against the tooling gelcoat use tissue/surface veil. Main reason because it is is easier to work the air out of, for the first layer (important layer) and heaps less print though on the surface of you mold, I even then use a layer of split strand 225 for my second layer,

[Dirtydog]

Ive learnt first hand what happens when you use turps of thinner based paint lol, doesnt end to well.

ive got some 2k high build primer that i will use, would like to get hold of some decent 2k gloss to finish with though.

and cheers for the tip on the tissue, i was wondering where that would be used and it makes complete sence. ill add it to the list when i buy the stuff for it.

do you know a good place to get the rollers from? ive only found the radius and straight rollers, but they are cheap and clog up really easy

[Dumbass]

P J hobbs have an awsome range of rollers...a little to many to choose from in fact

[Dirtydog]

cool ill check them out when i get round to it