LN106 Hilux Build

[oldyella]

Pretty sure we screwed up the steering box placement on phils for the same reason your talking about.

It hit the body so we thought oh that'll do. But the links ended up out of parallel or something.

I think all it needed really was to massage the body to get it an inch or so further forward?

Can't remember if we used any origional holes or not...

[Macca]

Hi, I had a later model (5L ) that was turbo'd professionalybefore i got it using this set up and they just left water jacket open ie no pipes or blanks, I was a bit concerned that it would be to hot but have found that it was fine.

[bigstu]

Hey pete, hows the setup going? does it flex any better in the rear than it used to? I found some 06 hilux springs for $70 so snapped them up If your setup has worked well Il prob swap them into the back of my surf just got to sort the 3rz swap first. do you recon they could be mounted in the factory position to push rear axle back a bit? that front bushing very much the same as coons have so would need a new mount made I guess.
thanks Stu

[Petemcc]

Stu, pretty sure I send you a PM answering this? either way I haven't flexed it up yet so time will tell.

As they are a bit longer they will push your axle back but would also mess up your shackle angle. Longer shackles could fix this but I would guess they would need to be quite a bit longer to account for it and things might start to get messed up. Easy enough to throw them in and see how it all sits though?

You would also have to consider the wheel sitting in the guard if you weren't going to mod the tray with the axle moved back. Driveshaft would need to be longer and brake lines hand break cable etc.

I think making new mounts would be the way to go.

So a bit of an update, in the past few months I have...

Made new rear spring rear mounts
made new shackles
had new shackle pins made
fitted the other box with duals and driveshaft hand brake (spines were the same on gbox so no clutch change which is good!)
Fitted turbo exhaust manifold
Fitted turbo oil cooler for turbo oil feed
Purchased trial gear flat pitman
Longer break lines
Welded suspension good enough for go on a trailer........

And dropped it off at tom's to get a few things finished off.

Watch this space. Pics to follow

[Petemcc]

Photo update


rear mounts bodged up to get it sitting on wheels before going to tom's photos of tom's replacements to follow



New rear mounts tacked on with new 50mm longer (from memory) shackles made out of 10mm bar and new pins.



rear suspension tacked in and sitting about where it will stay.



Duals ready to go in



Duals in! seat sitting back of mounts. Leavers to be modified before seat will fit



Turbo on



Loading up to go to chch to see tom



Steering box bolted on picking up one of the factory mounts.



and mounted in position by tom



Ended up using a standard ln130 steering shaft

Duals and disk break hand brake hanging low. With the duals this disk brake needs to stick through the floor



And lifted up sticking through the floor after tom did the new xmember. Fuel lines still to be run



on route to chch



and back home again after visiting tom. Work bought a nice new trailer that will fit the truck without putting the little wheels on, score!



sliders, xmember tucked up nice and high.





new front rear mounts and new once pice driveshaft



New exhuast. Hopefully it won't be too loud with only the turbo and coby



ranchos new bump stops and x over steer



Stoked with the new bullbar! has a runva 9500q in there too



sitting nice on the 35s with nice low cog and won't look too stupid on the 33s either.



a few more pics to come

the list as it stands is

finish off turbo converson, oil lines, intake and boost compensator etc.

sort out fuel lines
brake lines and rear proportioning valve
check wheel bearings
install egt meter
get boost gauge and install
sort handbrake cable
speedo extension
wire up winch
tighten all bolts!
new tunnel cover made but need to get rubber to seal it all up
might need to modify seat mounts to be able to keep the bench with duals.
put crush tube with bolt in rear shackles to stiffen them up a bit
change gearbox oil and top up diffs
hook up power steering

I missed a few bits but will take more pics in the next few days

Go for a drive!!!!!!

[oldyella]

Toms made a bloody good job of that aye. Looks like you need to trim your front guards where they hang below the bar as well?

Perhaps you should bring your truck on the next labour weekend trip Pete You can tow the rest of us through the snow drifts

[Petemcc]

yea there is a little to trim. It shows it a bit more because the photos where taken looking up from underneath it. Not quite as much to trim as it looks.

Yea might have it going by then haha will see what happens. Ill try to bring it if you bring that landy along!

[Petemcc]

And yes... Tom does good work. Very happy

[J_Dub]

jealous but very cool, hope all the bits n pieces worked out for ya

[passengerpete]

awesome truck ya got there, im fascinated with all ya gear sticks but whats the second one do ? as in the
first one would be gearbox
second one ?
third one front transfer
forth one second transfer
cheers keep up the good work

[Petemcc]

Yea first is the normal gear stick second is the first transfer hi/lo and at the back the one on the left is the second transfer hi/lo and the one on the right selects 4wd 2wd. Selectable 4wd is handy so that I can have low range 2wd. The standard transfer just has 1 selector that does hi 2wd hi 4wd and low 4wd. You can buy the twin shifter and fit it to a standard box with only one transfer.

http://www.trail-gear.com/twin-shifterhttp://www.trail-gear.com/twin-shifter

Cheers,
Pete

[Petemcc]

Well I have been slowly working away on the truck since I got it back from toms. Lots of little bits to sort. I'm about half way through sorting out the trans tunnel. Looks like the bench seat is going to work which is cool. have run new fuel lines but still need to tidy them up. Have got the turbo plumbed up.

I took the turbo off to change the oil cooler again. The one I had was of a 2lt-e and had the oil feed that would bolt up with the standard lines. However it had been sitting on the shelf for a while and was a bit dirty even after heaps of cleaning I was worried there might still be some grime in it. After I took it to Toms I came across one that was off an early 2lt that was cleaner so put that on. The earlier ones have the oil feed in a different place but I had a braided hose that I was able to use. I cut the old feed pipe off and tapped the mounting flange so that I could bolt the hose to it.

Turbo off, oil cooler on.



The big pipe is the drain and the small braided one is the feed



Attached to the oil cooler



All on



Swapped the 2lt-e intake mainfold as well so that all the pipes fit. you have to take off all the fuel lines which is a bit of a pain but straight forward

Cranked it over for a bit to check oil was coming out the turbo drain but nothing came after 30 seconds of cranking. Once it started there was plenty of oil coming out. Must need a few more rpm to get the oil pressure.

Throttle cable ended up here. Will it get too hot here??



And then after a bit more shagging around with bits and pieces and putting in the front drive shaft it drove out of the garage!

It had a little more in it at the front and heaps at the back but I think the springs will be a bit stiff for it to get on the bump stops. I need a more stable ramp!

[Petemcc]

A couple of questions

What's the best way to bleed the power steering? I jacked the wheels off the ground and turned the wheel from lock to lock 20 odd times and its working fine but by the noise it's making it still has air in the lines.

Does any one have a fuel tank for sale? Mine had a leak when i took it off the road and I patched that but when I filled it up yesterday its started weeping from another spot. I think it is about shot.

[tomsoffroad]

Whats it drive like Pete? That's exhaust shouldn't be too noisey? Pretty close to finished now

[Petemcc]

At the moment it drives slow and with the handbrake to stop it. breaks still need sorted properly so haven't had it out of low low box yet. Will sort brakes then trailer it to get a wheel alignment early next week hopefully.

Exhaust sounds good. I was surprised how much the turbo muffles it.

Yea its getting closer but still heaps of little bits.

Also anybody got a surf airbox and pipe that goes from the cross over pipe to the airbox?

Might just get some flexy pipe and use the air box I have.

[bigstu]

Hi Pete,
suspension looks good, I have a yn60 tank here you can have if it'll work Ive replaced it with a yn61 efi tank for the 3rz swap.

Thanks Stu

[trucked]

jealous, awesome looking truck.

Cant wait to get mine ruf'd and able to fit the 35's just like yours

[Petemcc]

Rear proportioning valve mounted. Hose might be a bit long now. Might put the old one back on . Looks like it could get hung up on stuff.



Rebuilt turbo with bigger compressor wheel from Steve Murch. Should be a bit better suited to the 5l





33's look sweet. Was worried that they might look too small. will run these most of the time I think.







And some flexy shots.

[Petemcc]

Have spent quite a bit of time on it in the last few weeks. Lots of little bits.

The bad bits
Clutch fork is knocking on something when foot is off the clutch. Only takes resting your foot on they clutch or holding the fork in your hand to stop it but is loud. Think I might have to pull the box out! Bugger!!!! Bloody fork.

Rear diff lock isn't working how it should. Was able to spin the drive shaft with one wheel on the ground and one in the air the other day so that will probably have to come out too and go back to the guy that set it up unless I can find someone good down here.

there are no brakes.... have bleed the sht out of them and the peddle still goes to the foor. No leaks so suspect master cylinder. can sometimes pump it up but then leave it for min and will go to the floor again. master was mint before it all came apart. might just take it to a brake shop haha.

Power steering it still noisy as. How they hell am I meant to bleed it? Hoses were completely empty for about a year. have just filled it up and spun the wheel side to side about 50 times with the wheels off the ground and engine running.

The good!

Turbo is all mounted with water lines run.
brake lines brackets moved on the front to no more problems when flexing up.
fuel tank is in and not leaking
fixed front hub and adjusted wheel bearings.
Secured snorkel with rivnuts on the piller (have been meaning to do that since i got the bloody thing)
Gearbox tunnel is coming along nicely.
Rear brakes seem to not be rubbing anymore.
fuel lines are run permenantly (unless cert man wants better clamps but i have some ready haha)

Heaps of other little thing done and lots to do still!

Next up

sort clutch.
Sort brakes
get wheel alignment and get 35's ballanced.
fit new airbox
speedo cable
sort gauges
fit interior again
sort shackle stiffening
tighten all bolts!

Getting closer!!!

[J_Dub]

I will get that email address to you shortly.
re the brakes.. what master cylinder are you using? or is it the slave cylinder, the pushrod bit from the booster that the brake lines plumb into???( I always get them 2 mixed up)
I know you typically get the bores reduced so there is more travel in them??

[Petemcc]

I will get that email address to you shortly.
re the brakes.. what master cylinder are you using? or is it the slave cylinder, the pushrod bit from the booster that the brake lines plumb into???( I always get them 2 mixed up)
I know you typically get the bores reduced so there is more travel in them??

Still the standard ln 106 one. Could that be my problem? It just pulls up to a stop when rolling if I put my foot to the floor. Almost like it is running out of travel. I have the v6 surf front callipers and mr2 rears. Have a ln130 master I could try?. Would have thought it would still have more braking than that.

[trucked]

Not sure if the lokka is able to let the driveshaft spin like, doesnt sound quite right tho. you might want to test it how the instructions say just to be sure before you take the time to pull it out.

rear axle: jack up, make sure its in gear, get another mate to help, each take a wheel, forceibly rotate both wheels in one direction this locks the diff, one then holds a wheel while the other rotates in the oppisite direction it should click and rotate.

front axle is pretty much the same but you need it in 4wd and hubs locked.

[bigstu]

I will get that email address to you shortly.
re the brakes.. what master cylinder are you using? or is it the slave cylinder, the pushrod bit from the booster that the brake lines plumb into???( I always get them 2 mixed up)
I know you typically get the bores reduced so there is more travel in them??

Still the standard ln 106 one. Could that be my problem? It just pulls up to a stop when rolling if I put my foot to the floor. Almost like it is running out of travel. I have the v6 surf front callipers and mr2 rears. Have a ln130 master I could try?. Would have thought it would still have more braking than that.

I think its a bigger bore master cylinder you need moves more fluid in the same stroke if thats the word for it.

[Petemcc]

righto lots of gaps to fill in.

BRAKES

I have used

80 series master cylinder. I got one that was off an HJ80 though from what I can tell any non abs 80 series one will fit. These are a larger diameter (1inch) and apparently have correct valving in them for rear disk brakes. These bolt on you just need to bend the brake lines around as they mount to the opposite side of the cylinder from the hilux one.

I ended up putting a ln130 booster on as I had one lying around and it was bigger than the ln106 one.

Front callipers are off a surf V6. They have s13 stamped onto them. These are they ones with the biggest pistons, they have two large pistons on each side that are the time size.

Front rotors are LN106 vented rotors these are the same as 60 series cruiser

Woodward rear proportioning valve (not sure if this is needed with the 80 series master but will keep it in anyway.

On the rear i have lj78 rotors and mr2 rear calipers. I uses SNR calliper mounting brackets. These do not work on the standard hilux rear end they will only fit on the wider surf rear axles (either coil or leaf).

The SNR brackets come with two soild spacers for each side I had to have 3mm taken off these so that the callipers didn't rub on the rotor.

I had real troubles bleeding the brakes until I realised the callipers were on the wrong sides meaning the nipples are not at the top.

how mine were


Photo from one of hosehustlers thread of how they should look

[Petemcc]

Braded front lines with mounts moved from the top of the chassis to the side to get a bit more length.

[Petemcc]

Front drive shaft made by tom. Had to be much longer for the duals he used a tractor PTO drive spine, the original joints and tube from the rear drive shaft which was hacked up. The original was obviously too short but the original spine did not have enough travel either with how much the front flexes.

Pretty sure tom got the rear shaft made by circle track in chch. It obviously had to be made a bit shorter for the duals.

[Petemcc]

Rear shackles weren't stiff enough so I put in a brace. Box section welded to one side and the a bolt through the middle.

[Petemcc]

I had parrots in chch make be a longer speedo cable (duals move it back). I had it made 200 mm longer. Then I didn't plug it into the speedo properly and it chewed itself out. I managed to selvage it by cutting off the buggered bit of cable and crimping a ferule to what was left.

Speedo seems to be less than 10% out so I might be right with it?

What do people normally do here with hilux's on 35s? (I have 4.5 diffs) will cert man need me to correct it?

[Petemcc]

Last weekend we took it for it's maiden voyage!! Towed it to arrowtown and went most of the way up to mace town.

Stoked with how it went. The ride is great nice and soft on the river bed with the shocks on soft but not wallowy.

Duals got me out of one interesting bit. Didn't get too many pics. Too busy driving it!













A couple of teething problems, power steering kept stopping when going through the river so might need to tighten the belt though it didn't feel that lose and wasn't squealing at all. Will tighten it up and see what happens. Also when going along for a while without going through the river the power steering pump stated to get noisy. I think it was getting a bit hot. might change the fluid.

Have a couple of small exhaust leaks at the turbo. need better gaskets. Exhaust rubs on gearbox xmember every now and again which is a pain.

disk brake hand brake drags a bit and smells good.

IT GOES!!!!!!

[Petemcc]

This shot shows the turbo Steve Murch modified for me next to a standard ct20. As you can see he machined a lot out of the hosing to get the bigger 16g wheel in there. Should do the trick.