Y60 front axle upgrades

[mudlva]

hi im looking at strengthening up my new Y60 front axle

1, adding the 1/2 moon pieces into the knuckle

2, adding a strengthening gusset from the pumpkin across to the left side radius arm mount.

there was a bit of discussion along these line a few years back but i can not find it.

what i would like is pictures and any little hints etc especially on what not to do and the reason why it should not be done etc..

thanks in advance

[tomsoffroad]

One I did a while ago. Not the best photo but its 2 pieces of 5mm joined in a triangle shape.

[mudlva]

cheers Tom

did you do both top and bottom?

[coxsy]

Yes I have superior kit on mine weld a inch let it go cold before adding another weld

[nismo26]

Some more photos here

http://www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/ARB ... h-kit.html

If you do put the gusset from the pumpkin to the passenger radius arm don't weld it all at once the heat might bend it, i'd just stitch it on then seal it to stop crap getting in. Maybe chain or weld it to a heavy bit of beam if you can get your hands on some.

The washers they weld on the radius arm bolt holes are a good idea mine were slogged out and make a knocking sound when braking.

The ball/knuckle gusset would be the most important might as well do the top and bottom would be the weakest point.

[tomsoffroad]

cheers Tom

did you do both top and bottom?

Yeah I did but didn't take any pics. If I remember correctly that was just 10mm plate cut similar to the ones on nismo's link

[mudlva]

cool thanks fellas

it looks like the ball is the most important although i will proberly use a combo of everything thats there

whats your thoughts on moving the drain plug either to the side from where it is at the moment or onto the front.

both will still involve a bit of contact but at least the plug will not get dragged when crossing over rocks etc

[nismo26]

whats your thoughts on moving the drain plug either to the side from where it is at the moment or onto the front.

Shave the bottom off for more ground clearance and use the bottom stud as the drain on the diff head. You can get nearly an inch off the front.

[mudlva]

cheers Nismo
what thickness plate did you use and is that 25mm the total gain in height
ie if i worked on say 22mm plus say 6mm plate and kicked the grinder into life at the new 28mm mark im not going to foul the crown wheel

[nismo26]

I used 5 or 6mm, yea total height gain is around 25mm I can't remember the exact gain now but was close to a tyre size, best to cut a bit off at a time and check the clearance, ill take some photos tomorrow after work.

[mudlva]

Cheers for that i will start at a total of 20mm that way i will be able to gauge it properly

[mudlva]

i started the diff strenghtening
added a cut up 50*50shs onto the top side of the axle from the pumpkin to the l.h.s. radiua arm mount and added the 1/2 moon disks onto the knuckles.

just finished the last weld on the knuckles and heard the "unwanted" sound of the steel popping, bugger!!

cut the support ties that i connected the axle to a friendly 200mm u.b. that i scored off a construction site a while back and the axle raised by 3-4mm.
that means that the camber in at the top will be slightly more now than previous, ignoring the popping sound that come from the last weld onto the knuckle. i didnt measure any off the "knuckle geometry" to start with so no idea on what it is now. i will have to wait until the complete rig is up and going and see from there. if it drives like sh-t then i will replace it with a non modified diff and try and gauge the differance.

ive been told there is no "speed" sections in the winch challenge it is only a "timed stage" so i should be alright...

i will see if a can get a mate to upload some photos for me as my pc is playing up at the moment

[Camel]

Be careful on how much you have tweaked it
When I bent My front Diff housing ( Air Time..), I gained a whole lot of Negative camber, one side bent up the ball so much the 3 month old Axel seal starting leaking, (from bone dry to Drips right away ) I'm guessing the Axel shaft wasn't sitting level anymore and rubbed on the seal, and The Negative Camber was visible to the eyes. Did not drive that much different, but I'm sure it would of wore the tyres quicker.
( I threw on spare tyres I had for a few weeks ) .
With the amount of work involved, You might want to get another housing and try again ?

[mudlva]

Progress report #3
Glued the second 50x50 shs to the under side of the housing and once i cut the strong back beam ties off it sprung around 2 mm so that means the over possible welding movement is around 1.5-2.0mm moving carber inwards at the top. Imho its nothing so will start the job of shaveing the bottom of the pumpkin

Photos when i get a chance