Tuning a classic rangy/ rover v8. How do I engage centre dif

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 3:54 pm

Old 73 rangy isnt running the "best". Whats the best things to do to improve power? (its running like a heap of shit)

Also, the centre diff lock isnt engaging. Its one of those ones which have H | N | L, I was trying to go up a simple hill but only one wheel was spinning

NJV6 · Post by **NJV6** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:54 pm

1st Q... Stromberg carbs.... they seem to always need tuning, and that;ll help. Otherwise get some SU's for it...

2nd Q.... I presume you have pulled the diff lock lever/knob up? They are vacuum operated on the older ones, sometimes the vacuum would die. It'll either have a light in the instrument binnacle if newer of on top of the knob if older.

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:28 pm

whenever i had problems with my rover v8 not running right the first thing i checked was the points they wear at an alarming rate if not lubricated properly

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:42 pm

NJV6: It has zenith carbs. Ill swap em for a set of su's if I can find some. Where is the difflock lever? There is a hole on the gearlever boot, but no knob?

Mercutio: Good idea, havnt checked em. I wont spend any money doing up a lucas dizzy, I will wait until someone replys to my distributor account :roll:

jdeburgh · Post by **jdeburgh** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:50 pm

Yep you should have a knob right next to the gear lever. As said above might have a light on it or on the dash. Its worked by vaccum. If it does not engage then check the flexible tubes which go to it, make sure they are connected at both ends and not cracked. The actuator can also be faultly, usualy a little diaphram in the unit give up the ghost. Then you need to get a second hand one off any old rangie or v8 rover gearbox.

If there is no lever there someone may have removed the unit altogether or it may just be snapped off (the knob), which is quite common. I think I may have a spare knob (for the rangie) If yours is broken (the rangie knob) then I'll see if I've still got it and you can have it.

John

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 7:44 pm

Old 73 rangy isnt running the "best". Whats the best things to do to improve power? (its running like a heap of shit)

I'm glad Bubba will be pushing it oops I mean going with you .......I think I'll stick with Mt Zuki :lol:

Good idea to check all the hoses and belts

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:20 pm

im not taking it on sat jerry. dont want to break it before interlclubs. The way its going though, I wont make it to interclubs

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:21 pm

Found out the engine was running fine, and that it was just me comparing it to my 202.

7.50x16 sat retreads do fit with no lift. Transfercase is popping out of high. And suggestions? there was hardly any if any oil in the transfer case

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:34 pm

Is there anyway to plumb in a pneumatic switch to lock and unlock the centre diff?

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:35 pm

and how do I get the transmission tunnel off so I can see what im dealing with?

jdeburgh · Post by **jdeburgh** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:43 pm

there should be a small inspection hole down the drivers side if the tunnel, you will have to remove the carpet. To remove the tunnel you need to remove the floor, but before that you need to remove the front seats. BUggar of a job. I'd try the inspection hole first. You can also remove the heat shield from under neath the vehicle which exposes the diff lock actuator a little better. You can also remove the gearstick rubber shroud and have a look at the vaccum tubes going to the actuator. The wires coming off it are just for the indicator light which lets you know if its engaged or not. from the knob/switch.

John

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:46 pm

aah, ok, maybe I can cut a hole in the floor and weld it up when im done :lol:

Ill stick it on the hoist again tommorow and have a look.

I think the transfer case popping out of high has something to do with the intermediates shaft shims

jdeburgh · Post by **jdeburgh** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:46 pm

turoa wrote:Is there anyway to plumb in a pneumatic switch to lock and unlock the centre diff?

No, not really the knob that you pull is connected by the vaccum tube to the actuator, when you pull the kob up it allows the vaccum to flow into the actuator which in turn sucks on a diaphram whcih pulls a lever across to engage the centre diff lock.

Complicated system, I'd prefer a big metal lever that goes CLUNK actually.

John

jdeburgh · Post by **jdeburgh** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:50 pm

The high low ratio lever is not held in by much, but again to get at it is a probelm. I do know that, as you sugessted people have cut holes in the tunnel, but if I did that I would replace it with a larger piece of panel steel and screw it back into place for later access.

John

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:53 pm

jdeburgh wrote:The high low ratio lever is not held in by much, but again to get at it is a probelm. I do know that, as you sugessted people have cut holes in the tunnel, but if I did that I would replace it with a larger piece of panel steel and screw it back into place for later access.

John

Thats a better indea again. Ive got a big sheet of ali here for use. Ill have to break out the plasma tommorow

mroffroader · Post by **mroffroader** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 7:17 am

lol ur a crack up so i take it u got the rangy gtood al transporters aye didnt take long at all

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 7:50 am

The Rangie I had was a bit low on power, it had worn the cam lobes down so wasnt getting as much valve opening as it should.

New cam and lifters made a huge difference, I was told this was a common problem with the old rover V8s.

4WDbits · Post by **4WDbits** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 8:38 am

I had a 72 Rangie once before I saw the light and went Japanese. The bearings in the dizzy were a bit worn causing spark scatter, replaced with electronic points for $100. The vacum/mechanical advance/retard mechanism was worn out and springs miles out of tolerance. After all that was sorted, new HT leads, spark plugs, carb balance (air flow not just full throttle) and tune and it ran sweet for at least a week.
Had butt ugly seats, which meant the misses hated it after 20 minutes.
Have you seen the 'Bush Mechanic Challenge' DVD that came with the Dec Auss 4WD mag? Pat has a classic Rangie to repair in that.

jdeburgh · Post by **jdeburgh** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 11:23 am

Saw the light, boh hoo haa haa!!

I'm usually the one towing out the jappers with my old '74 rangie

yep (from above) cams do wear, but you can get new ones!
I've had jappers and had to do just as much work on them, the old rangie has more character - the original SUV...
I'll bet (really) your really sorry you changed?

(Sorry - just joking, don't mean to change the thread!)

John :lol:

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 4:54 pm

I fixed it :twisted:

I pulled up the shifter boot and saw 2 hoses going to the bonnet. I thought that was a tad strange, so I traced them up to the bonnet, where I found a solinoid, there were 3 hoses, 2 from the vaccum unit on the T-case, and 1 from the engine. I put a wire between the solinoid + and the battery, and it clicked. Went inside, and started pulling switches till the solinoid clicked. Though, hmm, could be a centre diff lock switch, so I took it out onto the hill, got as far as I could, hit the centre diff lock switch, a bright orange light came on, and then I could keep crawling. Sweet

.

jdeburgh · Post by **jdeburgh** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:00 pm

Excellent!! Long live the Rangies!! -- Oh they do that anyway!

John
:twisted: