Auto KZN130 Surf Radiator Choice

[TerrainTamerNZ]

Nothing wrong with a two core @ 22.5mm tubes, as the 3 cores will most likely be 12-13mm tubes. Tried Adrad? http://www.radiators.co.nz. They have agents across the country. Explain your situation and they will be more than happy to help.

If your offroad, fin pitch and whether the fin is louvered are the biggest concerns. Stick with brass copper, as its easier to repair.

Adding a row of std size tube normally gives about 10-15% better cooling.

I used to supply 3 row cores with a slightly more open fin pitch to avoid blockage for mucky situations, manufactured in Auckland at Adrads manufacturing plant.

[bronx89]

Completely right just heard back from one of the other crowds with 3 rows and they are only 13-15mm thick.

Shit so is it known that a 2 row core with 22.5mm thick tubes will cool better in all situations over a 3 row core with 13-15mm thick tubes? Or the other way around?

Not really concerned with repairs in the field - so does that mean I could go for an ali/alloy one? Truck does take some bumps and knocks on sand, bush and mud every couple of weekends so not wanting something that will break that's all.

"Adding a row of std size tube normally gives about 10-15% better cooling."
- Sorry could you just explain that bit pls? Adding a row of standard size tube, where??

Will check out that website now (Adrar Nat Rad's).

$650, shite bit more than I'm wanting to spend thinking $400ish.

[TerrainTamerNZ]

2 row big tube vs 3 row std tube will be very similar. Flow rates change slightly, from my experience, people lean toward to the 2 big tubes for racing etc.


With repair, i was referring to long term maintenance. Brass Copper can be opened easily and cleaned compaired to an ally which normally due to price will be tossed if it gets blocked or corrosion etc and replaced. Also Alloy can be soft, and if cleaned with a pressure washer, you can bend fins over.

I.e if you have a 2 row std tube currently, and replace it with the same radiator but its a 3 row core, its cooling effect is around 10-15% more efficient.

Since you are asking these guys questions, might as well ask the Fin Pitch of the rads, anything up near 20 fins per inch is too tight for off road IMHO.


Hope this helps...

Dan

[bronx89]

Thanks very much for the input and information Dan - much appreciated!

I'm going to lay off the mud work now so my truck will really only see the beach and occasionally the bush (dry tracks maybe the occasional puddle).

I've got the standard radiator in there now - I'm assuming it's a 2 row std tube core? I had heard somewhere that they came with 1 row but that doesn't sound right, does it?

In your opinion, going from standard, would the 2 row large tube or the 3 row std tube have the biggest increase in cooling for all situations (on and off road (not taking mud/clay blockages into consideration))? Also note there is a core size difference between the 2 row and 3 row shown below both in thickness and width.

Below is updated info., still unable to get in touch with Silverdale Rad's to find out their tube thickness.

Fenix Radiators:
- 3 row core
- 550mm ( Between Top & Bottom Tanks )
- 550mm ( Between Side Plates )
- 50mm ( Thickness )
- 12-15mm ( Tube Thickness )

A1 Radiators:
- 2 row core
- 550mm ( Between Top & Bottom Tanks )
- 528mm ( Between Side Plates )
- 49mm ( Thickness )
- 22.5mm ( Tube Thickness )

Silverdale Radiators:
- 3 row core
- 550mm ( Between Top & Bottom Tanks )
- 530mm ( Between Side Plates )
- 53mm ( Thickness )
- Still trying to find out thickness of tubes

[klompy]

Dont buy a Fenix they are low quality but the ones from Silverdale say made in Taiwan on the sticker but seem to be good.

[bronx89]

Yea Spoke to manager at Silverdale Rads who said steer clear of Fenix and that the Silverdale ones were the best on the market. Then again Fenix said the same thing about theirs. Silverdale Rads also didn't know how big their own tubes were but said the Taiwanese quality was excellent compared to the Fenix Chinese ones.

I'm thinking I'll go with the Silverdale Rads 3 row 53mm core option unless anyone else has any more input.

I can also post up direct temperature changes on and off road and climbing hills and cruising as a result of an upgraded and new rad if anyone wants.

[klompy]

Logging outfit in town here went thru 10 Fenix ones before they changed brands some only lasted days before cracking and thats in Hilux utes and Hiace vans and mostly 2wd.I fitted a Silverdale one to my truck which has a 1kz-te and cant fault it.

[bronx89]

Logging outfit in town here went thru 10 Fenix ones before they changed brands some only lasted days before cracking and thats in Hilux utes and Hiace vans and mostly 2wd.I fitted a Silverdale one to my truck which has a 1kz-te and cant fault it.

Wow. Hadn't realised how sh*te Fenix ones really were!

Purchased a manual Silverdale Radiator's one today and it arrived this afternoon. Will be chucking it in tomorrow and do a road test then head out Muriwai this weekend for the real test.

[dutchy]

post up changes. interested to see. working my way up to radiator at the moment.

[bronx89]

post up changes. interested to see. working my way up to radiator at the moment.

Huge difference noticed so far on road. Normally whenever I'm on the motorway with the 33's when there's a long drawn out incline it needs a bit (a lot) of a boot up it to keep moving, this used to get it up to 90-95'C or so before the radiator sprung the leaks and shat itself, after the pin hole leaks (and suspected blockages) it would creep up to 95-100'C doing that. Now, even giving it more of a boot than usual up long drawn out inclines it won't even nudge past 84'C.

Normal road driving (off motorway/highway) it gets to a constant operating temp of about 78'C on a cool day, 82'C or so on an extremely hot and muggy day. Used to settle at about 82'C on a cool day and closer to 86'C on a hot day.

So, so far differences are excellent. Wasn't able to take it out on the beach this weekend but if anyone wants to know how that goes let me know and I can post up those results too.

Note I have a ram snorkel, external auto trans cooler (big davies craig 8cyl), new silverdale radiators manual 53mm radiator, 71'C stat, aux fan used when creeping, fresh fluid in fan clutch. The above temps weren't achieved with just a new rad.

[dutchy]

Note I have a ram snorkel, external auto trans cooler (big davies craig 8cyl), new silverdale radiators manual 53mm radiator, 71'C stat, aux fan used when creeping. The above temps weren't achieved with just a new rad.

i have a 'airflow' snorkel, davis craig 8cyl cooler A/C completely removed. in process of re-gelling viscous hub and installing intercooler with fan and bigger pipes. running 33s. mainly do beach driving

what size aux fan are you using? dont think it blocks air at high speed? (big bar, winch and spots allready have the blocking airflow under control )

trying to avoid replacing the radiator but you are not the first with these results- see them a lot on fishing forums towing big boats.

let me know how the sand goes.

cheers
chris

[bronx89]

Sorry forgot to mention fresh fluid in the fan clutch too. I've got a big bar on the front now (no spotties no winch so doesn't block air flow too much). As for the aux fan, it's a switch directly to the A/C fan so doesn't block any more than factory and pulls a decent amount of air at low speeds to assist the viscous fan.

Interested in your intercooler setup! Top mount of front mount? Can you post up a new topic with info? Wanting to do the same thing but as much of a "straight bolt on" as possible.

PS highly recommend getting a new radiator if yours is factory. They're pushing 20+ years old now and are a vital part of the engine cooling system so $400 for something that is going to last another 15-20 years is really f*ck all and the differences in coolant temps are extremely good.

[dutchy]

i bought this guys air to air cooler all modified as he went to water to air but he is a lot more serious than i am and i dont want to install water pump and extra radiator. but will be putting a slim fan under the intercooler that will always be on when on wellingtons soft sand.

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... ntercooler

that also requires the rockercover to be modified and butterfly removed
but since im auto i need to relocate TPS.

http://toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/inter ... 0litre.htm (not currently working but think that is a step by step on shaving rockercover)

i have bought another rockercover to modify to keep the truck on the road so will be able to flick off the standard one.
oh but if you have 50mm body lift you dont need to modify the rockercover, i only have suspension lift and cant justify a body lift just for a I/C

as a side note, i have also blocked off EGR

cheers
chris

[bronx89]

Thanks for the links, hadn't seen that top one.

Thinking about buying a bar and fin I/C off eBay and just making up some simple piping. Modding the rocker cover is nice and easy but moving the butterfly and TPS I imagine is a bit of a pain? Do you know if there's any way around that?

I don't have a body lift. 3" suspension lift. A couple of small spacers under the bonnet bolts will fix the space issue though so that should get rid of the rocker cover issue? I suppose that may change the air flow under the bonnet but so does adding a scoop and a big I/C under there!

[dutchy]

have a look at your rocker cover.... your not just taking 10mm off it, so spacing wont help much.

TPS is easy to move. just find a spot somewhere where the 2 cables sit nicely.

the biggest thing is to get your piping as short as poss

[bronx89]

have a look at your rocker cover.... your not just taking 10mm off it, so spacing wont help much.

TPS is easy to move. just find a spot somewhere where the 2 cables sit nicely.

the biggest thing is to get your piping as short as poss

Truck isn't at mine at the moment, how much needs to be taken off the rocker cover? Wasn't meaning 10mm spaces, more like 30-40mm!

Is the TPS the only thing you need to move? Yea piping won't be an issue - will be the easiest bit for me. It's the rest I'd needa suss first.