Hilux Surf 2L-T questions

[Ryanjury]

Hi all, I have recently brought a surf with a 2L-T in it, I did quite a bit of research so I am aware of the issues they have with overheating but got a really good example at a good price and decided to have a go with it.

I have started to rip the EGR system out and have an EGT setup waiting to be installed. When removing the EGR intake pipe from the EGR valve I noticed (or maybe I broke - not sure) that an orange sensor was broken, and that another sensor had been disconnected and the vacuum hose off it blanked with a screw.

My question is what do these 2 things do and do I need them or are they removed with the EGR stuff, hopefully someone can help.. Photos are below showing the 2 items.

Thanks in advance.

[tweake]

looks like someones disabled the egr butterfly setup.
however you will probably find it shakes a fair bit on engine shutdown. other than that its a good thing.

[bob_or_jim]

Hi Ryanjury, that’s a solenoid valve that’s broken there and it's used in the operation of the EGR and butterfly setup. Not such a big deal on those.

How far with the mods do you intend on going? With the 2Lt being mech injected you can get some quite good gains out of it making it quicker than an early 1kz. This doesn’t really take much work and you have the ability to make it run a little cooler too with some boost mods.

[Ryanjury]

looks like someones disabled the egr butterfly setup.
however you will probably find it shakes a fair bit on engine shutdown. other than that its a good thing.

It is actually quite smooth on shut down so that is good.

Hi Ryanjury, that’s a solenoid valve that’s broken there and it's used in the operation of the EGR and butterfly setup. Not such a big deal on those.

How far with the mods do you intend on going? With the 2Lt being mech injected you can get some quite good gains out of it making it quicker than an early 1kz. This doesn’t really take much work and you have the ability to make it run a little cooler too with some boost mods.

I plan to do a bit to it, whatever I can do myself cheaply and easily first. First step is to remove the EGR which I am in the process of, I have very little experience with Diesels in general so not sure what I am removing. I have an EGT gauge and have already tapped a hole in a piece of steel for the sensor that the sensor goes in to and plan to manufacture a blanking plate that fits on where the EGT system comes off the exhaust manifold.

I will also clean out the intake because apparently they fill up with oil.

Next step will be to install a boost gauge and crank the boost up a bit to around maybe 12 PSI.

I have been looking at intercooler setups online but think I will start with the above first, the idea being to make it a good reliable wagon that will tow my boat..

Any suggestions/advice you can offer?

[bob_or_jim]

Oh good stuff! Yeah is the truck manual? To make it spool up a little quicker you can take the top off the boost compensator (its the top plate of you fuel pump) and there is a little hose that plugs into the top. This allows boost to push on the diaphram and increases the fuel as the boost rises. Anyway the tube the hose is pushed over tapers down quite small to restrict the flow to the compesator. I think this is some sort of emissions thing. Take the plate off (I think a 4mm allen key is all thats needed) and run a drill down the tube to remove the restriction. This allows the boost to come on a bit faster. It wont set the world on fire but its an easy wee mod to do.

Other than that a 2.5 inch exhaust is well recommended. Once you do that you can start bumping up the boost and adjusting the fuel rates. I run 16 psi no worries as the EGT is all adjusted by the amount of fuel you burn so if the turbo can hadle it then more boost the better.

Look up banks power for heaps of info on HP mods for diesels.

[tweake]

where are you going to fit the egt sensor?
you can fit the probe in the egr port but you need a very long sensor so the tip gets into the middle of the manifold runner.

boost, typically they run about 10psi stock. however that varies a bit with year etc. ball/spring boost controller is a good way to adjust the boost. cheap way is to put washers on the waste gate.

fueling, you can increase the main fuel screw and also they have a variable boost comp pin. adjust it by lossening the lock nut on top of the boost comp.

[Ryanjury]

Thanks for your replies.

The truck is a manual and came with a wad of receipts etc for he last 160km or around 10years since it came in the country, my mechanic said it was very well maintained when he did a WOF on it yesterday. The only issue is both back doors have a ton of rust in them just above the window so I need to replace both of those.

Once I have the boost gauge and EGT gauge hooked up I will have to hunt for that tube and drill it out, what size do you drill it out to, or do you just aim to make the diameter the same the whole way down?

I can't see myself forking out for a full exhaust, I don't think that would be very cheap but I understand it makes a huge difference.

Typically what sort of economy should I expect from this truck? Obviously its a big old diesel truck so not expecting great things but would be good to know what is typical for these ones and anything to do to improve their economy.

I am planning on sticking the EGT probe on the exhaust manifold where the EGT pipe comes off it and goes over to the EGT valve. My EGT probe is adjustable and you can extend it up to around 50mm long inside the manifold, so hopefully that is long enough to get into the gas flow.

[zukmeista]

The only issue is both back doors have a ton of rust in them just above the window so I need to replace both of those.

Both back doors... sounds like a later model 5-door so would have 2L-TE motor.

I can't see myself forking out for a full exhaust, I don't think that would be very cheap but I understand it makes a huge difference.

Would rather spend money on a bigger exhaust which will give you more power than spend it on a cracked head caused by the exhaust gases not getting out fast enough and overheating the motor.

[Ryanjury]

The only issue is both back doors have a ton of rust in them just above the window so I need to replace both of those.

Both back doors... sounds like a later model 5-door so would have 2L-TE motor.

Engine is definitely a 2L-T it says on top of the engine and on the firewall plate.

I can't see myself forking out for a full exhaust, I don't think that would be very cheap but I understand it makes a huge difference.

Would rather spend money on a bigger exhaust which will give you more power than spend it on a cracked head caused by the exhaust gases not getting out fast enough and overheating the motor.

What would the cost of a bigger exhaust be?

[zukmeista]

Depends, can you DIY? If not go and ask an exhaust shop. 2.5" mandrel bent should be more than adequate for a 2.4.

[tweake]

I am planning on sticking the EGT probe on the exhaust manifold where the EGT pipe comes off it and goes over to the EGT valve. My EGT probe is adjustable and you can extend it up to around 50mm long inside the manifold, so hopefully that is long enough to get into the gas flow.

50mm might do it.
i used
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=145
as i found the shorter ones read 100c cooler.

2.5" press bend is enough for the motor. a cheap hotdog muffler is ok tho its surprisingly loud.

ln130 came out with 3 or 4 versions of the 2lt engine. more than likely you have the "D-turbo" version.