So do have this right?? Winch mounting.

[catalystracing]

Ok, I have just searched and read lots on here about mounting a winch, so to summarize...

I am just mounting my new winch and want to do get mostly right the first time

I have a LN107 96 D/C IFS. Its not a winch or club truck but is no show truck either.

Battery: Need to replace anyways, so looking at NS70 but is only around 600 CCA so seems a little light, but then Im only winching on the occasion trip, probably use it 20 times a year.

Wanting to mount as high as possible and the fairlead as low as possible.
Im guessing that the center height of the fairlead should be mounted so it aligns with the bottom of the winch drum.


I will, after looking at the forums also mount the electrical goodies in the engine bay. Yup Ill have to lengthen some leads but have a buddy who services welders , be worth the effort. Ill get some recommended cables sizes also as this obviously helps.

Will also make the mounting plate to fit the tow hooks as the upside down hilux look is ...ummm well

Anything else I can do/consider.

Cheers Paul.

[drive it ...]

My winch mount when I got my truck was a dog to get out - about 20Million bolts in awkward places. So the obvious happened - not serviced, full of mucky water - died when I needed it. So make sure you think about having it easy to get out.

[catalystracing]

Cheers, in the forums on mounting winches it talks about that. Its nice to have a winch mounted in the bull bar, all looking tidy but as you say, because its hard to get to, it gets left alone.

[Smurf]

Cheers, in the forums on mounting winches it talks about that. Its nice to have a winch mounted in the bull bar, all looking tidy but as you say, because its hard to get to, it gets left alone.

Make it hard for light fingers to help themselves though. My winch was nice and easy to get to, Too much so. Someone kindly relieved me of it about two months ago.

[catalystracing]

Cheers, in the forums on mounting winches it talks about that. Its nice to have a winch mounted in the bull bar, all looking tidy but as you say, because its hard to get to, it gets left alone.

Make it hard for light fingers to help themselves though. My winch was nice and easy to get to, Too much so. Someone kindly relieved me of it about two months ago.

Mmmmm something else to think on, cheers. Gutted about your winch, theiving lil ^&(*&^%^'s

[Suza]

I saw an easy way to protect your winch from being stolen somewhere can't remember where and it was to fold up a piece of flat bar to make a U shape and then weld it over one of the bolts so that you can't get a spanner onto it, and then when you need to take the winch off just out with the grinder
Don't know if it would work but might be worth thinking about

[smurf182]

I saw an easy way to protect your winch from being stolen somewhere can't remember where and it was to fold up a piece of flat bar to make a U shape and then weld it over one of the bolts so that you can't get a spanner onto it, and then when you need to take the winch off just out with the grinder
Don't know if it would work but might be worth thinking about

Or

http://www.anzor.co.nz/security-screws/shear-nuts-vandal-proof/product

[Smurf]

I saw an easy way to protect your winch from being stolen somewhere can't remember where and it was to fold up a piece of flat bar to make a U shape and then weld it over one of the bolts so that you can't get a spanner onto it, and then when you need to take the winch off just out with the grinder
Don't know if it would work but might be worth thinking about

Or

http://www.anzor.co.nz/security-screws/shear-nuts-vandal-proof/product

I have done what Suza has suggested, Only problem with shear nuts is you can't easily remove the winch on the side of the track, at least with a bit of bar, you can cold chisel it off if need be. Also you can't check retighten the shear nuts

[mudlva]

Role a bit of flat bar into a ring on each end and weld a tab on the ring plus a mating tab on the bar. a padlock on each end sorted. If thief's want the winch bad enough they will just steal the truck instead

[catalystracing]

All good stuff fellas, thanks.
So the the overall thought on the winch mounting seem to fine, just security needs more thought.

Just wondering if you could use a lock nut from a mag wheel some how, with a key to suit in the truck for when you need....beginning to get the creative thoughts going....

Thinking of anything being stolen let alone the whole truck makes me

[UBZ]

Most importantly the rope needs to be exposed so you can see what is going on. And deal with the rope when it cuts in.

Last one I make the fairlead mount removable . Allowing the winch to be taken out of the bar , with out removing the bar from the truck.
One of the bolts each side of the fairlead mount was only accessible with a custom tool (Ground down ring spanner)

I also like to be able to remove the motor and access the brake mechanism without removing the winch from the truck.
Not always achievable but are the most common trial issues

[catalystracing]

Getting a good plan now forming in the foggy mists of my brain
2 more things to ask.
1-what plate thickness is recommended for the mount was thinking 6mm.
2-Is there a recommended distance from the fairlead to the winch drum??.

Cheers

[mudlva]

Getting a good plan now forming in the foggy mists of my brain
2 more things to ask.
1-what plate thickness is recommended for the mount was thinking 6mm.depends on span, if just supporting the winch area then 6mm is fine if spanning further then 10mm
2-Is there a recommended distance from the fairlead to the winch drum??.the further away the better for it to level wind, it will be down to restrictions of design verse distance, there is no maximum

Cheers

[catalystracing]

Thanks, might ramp the plate thickness up a bit then, as want to go wider and mount tow hooks as well.

[mudlva]

Thanks, might ramp the plate thickness up a bit then, as want to go wider and mount tow hooks as well.

in the big plan the extra thickness weight is nothing compared to the amount of mud you will carry under each guard

[catalystracing]

My boys reckon its not a good trip till there mud on the roof

[catalystracing]

FYI,
did a bit of a google for security fastening, found these.

http://www.pentabolt.com/

[slide]

Great idea, unfortunly one of these (cheap tools) would make light work of 5-sided head
http://www.toolmanyardley.co.uk/product ... ductid=372
http://www.google.co.nz/imgres?biw=969& ... 20&ndsp=20

[NOBDY]

fairlead to winch dist in a standard set up wont matter, as long as you use the fairlead which came with the winch. If you change fairleads (for style or to fit,, what ever) and end up with a wider one than original, this is what lets the rope bind on the out side of the drum, and smashes the flanges off the out side of the drum). Some guys put a slightly smaller one on for this reason, which will help reduce the bunching on the outside of the drum, when winching around corners.

[darinz]

I build my winch bars out of 3mm. Sure use 6mm (or 10mm ) but you don't need to if you're smart with your design.
I have a twin motor lowmount (twin 6hp) on the front of my wife's Safari and that bar is built of 3mm with a 6mm plate where the winch bolts on. Literally a couple of bits about 50mm wide. All you need to do is get the bar folded in the right place and 3mm will be stronger than a flat piece of 6mm.

The bar I built last year to go on my race truck (that will hold a twin motor 8274 when I finish building it) is also built from 3mm (except the bits that bolt to the chassis, which are 6mm).

So with smart design you can build a bar that is about 2/3's the weight of a 6mm bar yet stronger.

Also IMO you should always mount the winch so the mounting in vertical. This way when the load comes on the force is through the body of the winch rather as a shear load to the bolts. I know a lot of manufacturers rate them either way but in my experience why would you add a stress to something that is already extremely stressed?
Also with the winch mounted that way, you just bolt the fairlead on with the bottom two mounting bolts.

That being said if you don't understand what I'm talking out with the design then either get someone else to design it or use 6mm.

[catalystracing]

Thanks darinz, i value the input.
Never seen a vertical mount but makes sense, now to get the creative juices flowing and get it happening. I wanted to go with the heaver plate because of mounting tow hooks to winch plate, but now I may re-think that.

[catalystracing]

Great idea, unfortunly one of these (cheap tools) would make light work of 5-sided head
http://www.toolmanyardley.co.uk/product ... ductid=372
http://www.google.co.nz/imgres?biw=969& ... 20&ndsp=20

Bugger

[catalystracing]

fairlead to winch dist in a standard set up wont matter, as long as you use the fairlead which came with the winch. If you change fairleads (for style or to fit,, what ever) and end up with a wider one than original, this is what lets the rope bind on the out side of the drum, and smashes the flanges off the out side of the drum). Some guys put a slightly smaller one on for this reason, which will help reduce the bunching on the outside of the drum, when winching around corners.

Just sticking with the standard fairlead, I have seen the result of one too wide

[darinz]

If you use 6mm on the vertical sections of the bar that attach to the chassis, then you can bolt the tow hooks to that piece. That way they are securely mounted and the load is applied close to the chassis and so reducing leverage etc.
Also at that point you can weld a brace in. Remember that the main load of the winch is to the bottom bolt (trying to twist the winch forward) so if you fold the main plate to form a skid pan and then weld a plate at 90* to where the winch is mounted then you have 3 pieces of 3mm joining at basically the point of the highest load.
If you look at an ARB bar, it relies on the fold below the winch mount for most of the strength. At the top there is normally holes to allow you to operate freespool etc and these remove most of the strength. To solve this they often have a brace in front of the winch, just above where the fairlead sits. ARB's are very strong for the weight so good to get ideas from.

The first bar I built was all 6mm. Strong as shit but massively heavy so I learnt this the hard way! With the winch in it there was no way I could lift and I'm a little bigger than the average guy! The one on my Safari with the twin motor winch installed is still light enough that I can undo the bolts then pull it off the truck by myself.

Sorry photo's would be better so could take some to show you what I mean but will be on the weekend.

[catalystracing]

That would be great, thanks.

[catalystracing]

Need a new battery also, calcium or lead acid, going for 650CCA

[Crash bandicoot]

Need a new battery also, calcium or lead acid, going for 650CCA

go higher. from memory the ones driving my 9500 pounder are exides commercials rated at 880CCA

[catalystracing]

Some photos of progress. Had to fit in to tight budget and use what was around and the off cut bin at the local engineering shop.

Made some room to fit it in.



Put some bolts in and measured across to get mounting locations for the angle mounting.



Dummy run on the bench to check layout



Welding up, getting used to new welder and loving it.



First fit up to check clearances etc



Need to get hold of some M12 x 1.25 H/T bolts for final fit up.
This will get me going for the Southerlands club trip this weekend.
Managed to score a 730CCA batt too for $205

Then mount control box under the hood.
Fit isolating switch.

Then enjoy

[catalystracing]

Ok all fitted up, now to fit electrics under the hood, but all going thats the main thing.

[Crash bandicoot]

might want move the solenoid up ontop. wont last long there



8mm plate on mine but this will also have the new bar built off it and jack points.