Re spraying my Disco

[Disco Gofer]

I got a "well used" and sun faded 94 Disco TDi which I would like to have freshened up one day and was wondering what I would pay for a re spray. I'm not talking a panel beater finish like a late model car but just a good clean re spray. It's blue now ( actually blue, scratched, dented and faded colour.....)

It's such an economical off roader and despite being a bit weak for towing my bush truck is so worth keeping. Want to go from blue to Camel mustard yellow and pimp the old girl a bit.

Any guess what a back yard paint would cost?

[UBZ]

5-600$ in Primer , Paint , Thinners , Sandpaper ,Masking Tape , Filler , Plastic. etc

Assuming you have the compressor , Gun ,some where to do it that can be fully sheeted out with plastic(it goes everywhere) and a alot of time to strip and sand it and sand it and sand it.

[lax2wlg]

The paint you are looking for is called 'Sandglow' and originally used on Morris Marinas/Austin Allegros.

If there is no bare metal exposed, Personally I wouldn't strip the aluminium right back so long as the current paint is original. Its easy to damage the ally. You should be able to roughen the surfaces thoroughly with 180 - 240 to key the new paint.

I would personally use acrylic lacquer (Dupont or Dulux), this way you wont need to lay down an isolating primer coat, just prep prep prep and paint on top of the existing factory blue. Lacquer doesnt require a massive air compressor or fancy gun, single part (simple), dries quickly, is sandable, durable, no clearcoat needed, and with enough prep. and decent technique you can get a professional looking result in the backyard.

Paint is a classic example of prior preparation prevents piss poor performance. Say you spend 40 hours painting the truck, 35+ of those should be prepping.

It depends on how far you want to go... I would want to remove the door handles, alpine lights etc but you could probably mask around if you were OCD enough. What about the doorjambs? Those are very time consuming. Those vinyl TDI stickers and decals etc, remove all of them with a hairdryer and plastic scraper/acetone before prepping. The bonnet I would unbolt and paint seperately.

0.02c based on prepping/painting four 4x4s including two aluminium Rovers

[Disco Gofer]

Wow, thank you both so much for the info. Some thing to digest and plan for now.
Thank you.
Bernhard

[Ant]

awesome info, watching

[Disco Gofer]

The paint you are looking for is called 'Sandglow' and originally used on Morris Marinas/Austin Allegros.

If there is no bare metal exposed, Personally I wouldn't strip the aluminium right back so long as the current paint is original. Its easy to damage the ally. You should be able to roughen the surfaces thoroughly with 180 - 240 to key the new paint.

I would personally use acrylic lacquer (Dupont or Dulux), this way you wont need to lay down an isolating primer coat, just prep prep prep and paint on top of the existing factory blue. Lacquer doesnt require a massive air compressor or fancy gun, single part (simple), dries quickly, is sandable, durable, no clearcoat needed, and with enough prep. and decent technique you can get a professional looking result in the backyard.

Paint is a classic example of prior preparation prevents piss poor performance. Say you spend 40 hours painting the truck, 35+ of those should be prepping.

It depends on how far you want to go... I would want to remove the door handles, alpine lights etc but you could probably mask around if you were OCD enough. What about the doorjambs? Those are very time consuming. Those vinyl TDI stickers and decals etc, remove all of them with a hairdryer and plastic scraper/acetone before prepping. The bonnet I would unbolt and paint seperately.

0.02c based on prepping/painting four 4x4s including two aluminium Rovers

my neighbour is a sign writer so will down load and copy all and any stickers I need including the 4 "Randy Lover" ones in the Land Rover font and logo haha.
Once done it will be "Camel Toe-phy" pimped (Camel Trophy look alike decals) to give a good laugh to peeps.

[Disco Gofer]

The paint you are looking for is called 'Sandglow' and originally used on Morris Marinas/Austin Allegros.

If there is no bare metal exposed, Personally I wouldn't strip the aluminium right back so long as the current paint is original. Its easy to damage the ally. You should be able to roughen the surfaces thoroughly with 180 - 240 to key the new paint.

I would personally use acrylic lacquer (Dupont or Dulux), this way you wont need to lay down an isolating primer coat, just prep prep prep and paint on top of the existing factory blue. Lacquer doesnt require a massive air compressor or fancy gun, single part (simple), dries quickly, is sandable, durable, no clearcoat needed, and with enough prep. and decent technique you can get a professional looking result in the backyard.


Paint is a classic example of prior preparation prevents piss poor performance. Say you spend 40 hours painting the truck, 35+ of those should be prepping.

It depends on how far you want to go... I would want to remove the door handles, alpine lights etc but you could probably mask around if you were OCD enough. What about the doorjambs? Those are very time consuming. Those vinyl TDI stickers and decals etc, remove all of them with a hairdryer and plastic scraper/acetone before prepping. The bonnet I would unbolt and paint seperately.

0.02c based on prepping/painting four 4x4s including two aluminium Rovers

I have made the decision to go with your advice! thanks. Will have it done by end of March and will strip as much off as I can can cause I find that better and way easier than masking..........

[smurf182]

Will have it done by end of March

Mine was meant to be done for 1 December, then Xmas, then by the end of Xmas Holidays, now it's Waitangi Weekend..

Good Luck

There is a wealth of info on the net about auto body work but one thing I would add is use sanding blocks as big as is practical for the panel you are working on (you will need a few different ones) and also you will want to go finer than 180-240, for example the topcoat I used suggests P600-800 (also beware the difference between P-Grit and CAMI sandpaper grit numbers.

[Disco Gofer]

Will have it done by end of March

Mine was meant to be done for 1 December, then Xmas, then by the end of Xmas Holidays, now it's Waitangi Weekend..

Good Luck

There is a wealth of info on the net about auto body work but one thing I would add is use sanding blocks as big as is practical for the panel you are working on (you will need a few different ones) and also you will want to go finer than 180-240, for example the topcoat I used suggests P600-800 (also beware the difference between P-Grit and CAMI sandpaper grit numbers.

Oh thanks so much! I will try keep it to this year for the repaint haha.

[catalystracing]

Will have it done by end of March

Mine was meant to be done for 1 December, then Xmas, then by the end of Xmas Holidays, now it's Waitangi Weekend..

Good Luck

Nearly Waitangi weekend, hows the painting going

[smurf182]

Will have it done by end of March

Mine was meant to be done for 1 December, then Xmas, then by the end of Xmas Holidays, now it's Waitangi Weekend..

Good Luck

Nearly Waitangi weekend, hows the painting going

Just need to shoot the roll cage with some black enamel, but of course that involves 4 hours of sanding and masking, and 20 mins of painting
. So it's likely to stay 20 different colours of overspray for a while longer

[Disco Gofer]

Im liking the G4 orange now.........................could still do a G4 Camel Toe-phy theme!