Metallic pop/clunk noise F-RHS turning right or extensions

[bronx89]

1995 KZN130 1KZ-TE Hilux Surf

Suspension mods: 3" spring lift, 1.5" front ball joint spacers and the rest of the height wound from torsion bars, 3" long travel shocks front and rear, 2" panhard drop braket, 33x12.5 on 10s, no sway bars.

A very alarming noise has developed over the last few weeks/months from being a very very quiet clank like a slightly worn bush or wheel bearing on it's way out (or what I thought was my bullbar).

Yesterday on the beach it turned into an extremely loud shuddering pop/clunk metallic sort of sound. Happens when turning right or when the right front gets extended. If you go slow enough and turn right (even almost full lock) it won't happen (most of the time), or if you're going 80-100 km/h and turn right very very slightly you can avoid the noise too. Thought it may have been the axle/CV so dropped the height a bit on the beach but sound remained.

Checked: shock, wheel bearing, brake pads, caliper, disk, wheel, steering stops (full lock doesn't even hit the stops).

With the truck jacked off the ground at the front and wheels on it has about 10-20mm of steering play wiggling the wheel by hand side to side. Using steering wheel with front off ground I can turn full lock each side and no weird noises or anything so it's only when it's moving.

See attached pics.

Has anyone experienced this before or know how I can check (and what to check) on the steering components?

[derk]

check the nut behind the wheel

[kbushnz]

CV's

[bronx89]

Will duck out and check that nut behind the wheel now and with the CVs, I've changed them before but how do you know if they're stuffed/the cause of this issue? Can you tell just by looking at them?

[kbushnz]

Will duck out and check that nut behind the wheel now and with the CVs, I've changed them before but how do you know if they're stuffed/the cause of this issue? Can you tell just by looking at them?

Pull back the boots and catch the metal bits.

[bronx89]

The boots split, has been for a couple weeks, got them changed and split within a few days. Put my finger in there grease is nice and clean no metal no sand no stones no nothing.

What nut behind the wheel, there's a bolt straight into the spline. Does removing that little bolt in the spline release the hub end and once the ball joint is off the axle can slide out?

[zukmeista]

Put up a vid of the sound, will make it much easier to identify.

[bronx89]

Yea thought of that but after truck was apart in the garage - bit late now damnit

Will pull the axle out shortly and have a look at CV or post of pics of it.

PS: it's a large, solid, loud metallic clunk binding noise. Pretty sure it's the CV but felt sweet through the boot

[bronx89]

Well there's your problem

What's the going rate for a second-hand axle?

[ChurchurDan]

There's no nut behind the wheel, there's a bolt straight into the spline. Does removing that little bolt in the spline release the hub end and once the ball joint is off the axle can slide out?

[bronx89]

[lax2wlg]

Those are some crazy angles, the outer tie rod is all bound up.

Looks like the pitman is f**d too which could explain the end-play. Idler side probably the same. That'll be because of the wide tyres/10" rims.

Re; cranking up torsion bars to achieve lift, read this:
http://realiftsusp.com/IFSsurvival.html

check the nut behind the wheel

Did you come from Pirate??

[bronx89]

Those are some crazy angles, the outer tie rod is all bound up.

Looks like the pitman is f**d too which could explain the end-play. Idler side probably the same. That'll be because of the wide tyres/10" rims.

Re; cranking up torsion bars to achieve lift, read this:
http://realiftsusp.com/IFSsurvival.html

check the nut behind the wheel

Did you come from Pirate??

Thanks for the link, good read - knew it wasn't too good but didn't know it had quite that effect!

Note that all those pics are truck jacked off ground at full droop with long travel shocks. Angles are nice and relatively flat when on the road and with average extension on the beach.

Not too familiar with steering components, what's the pitman? Another name for drop arm?

[zukmeista]

The pitman arm is the part that fits onto the splined shaft on the bottom of the steering box, connects to draglink.

[ChurchurDan]

bronx do you not realise that "the nut behind the wheel" is a joking reference to the driver, the nut behind the steering wheel?

[bronx89]

bronx do you not realise that "the nut behind the wheel" is a joking reference to the driver, the nut behind the steering wheel?

zukmeista - those angles are normal at full extension with the front off the ground though right?

[zukmeista]

Not sure as IFS isn't my thing, to weak for my driving style... But the less angle everything is working on the longer it will last. Long travel shocks doesn't sound like a good idea as IFS is designed with max working limits at the factory and by fitting longtravel shocks you may be exceeding those limits. Fitting freewheeling hubs will save wear and tear on your C.V.'s for road usage.

[lax2wlg]

Not sure as IFS isn't my thing, to weak for my driving style...

Oh god, Toyota IFS or IFS in general? God, where to start?! Never mind.

Extended shocks won't make any difference.
The IFS has a fixed range of movement which is well within the range of the factory shocks.

Maybe the photos look steeper than it actually is, from where I am standing it doesn't look like usable travel though. Maybe your upper bumpstop has been spat out?

[truckingood]

ive got a spare mint cv sitting in my shed $50 all yours, will have another two to go shortly, in fact a whole ifs front end extended shocks will be being used as front ball joint spacers are fitted

[ChurchurDan]

Not sure as IFS isn't my thing, to weak for my driving style...

Oh god, Toyota IFS or IFS in general? God, where to start?! Never mind.

Extended shocks won't make any difference.
The IFS has a fixed range of movement which is well within the range of the factory shocks.

Maybe the photos look steeper than it actually is, from where I am standing it doesn't look like usable travel though. Maybe your upper bumpstop has been spat out?

He has ball joint spacers so it will droop more than it should, add in longer shocks and poor driver habits and you have a recipe for busted cv's

[bronx89]

Not sure as IFS isn't my thing, to weak for my driving style...

Oh god, Toyota IFS or IFS in general? God, where to start?! Never mind.

Extended shocks won't make any difference.
The IFS has a fixed range of movement which is well within the range of the factory shocks.

Maybe the photos look steeper than it actually is, from where I am standing it doesn't look like usable travel though. Maybe your upper bumpstop has been spat out?

He has ball joint spacers so it will droop more than it should, add in longer shocks and poor driver habits and you have a recipe for busted cv's

You sound like a fuckwit mate. If it was a recipe for blowing CV's it would have happened before and not be the first in 3-4 years.

------------

Got an axle today put it all in, all fixed.

As for the droop, the upper bumpstops are spaced out a good 1-1.5". Old standard shocks were rooted when I got the truck and I got given a set of new KYB 3" long travel shocks for free so chucked them in.

Photo also does make it look like angles are more than they actually are.

Probably look at getting diff drop kit and swaybar back in - buy hey 1 CV in almost 4 years of off-road abuse I'm not complaining. Easy and cheap fix in the end.

[lax2wlg]

extended shocks will be being used as front ball joint spacers are fitted

Ahhh right right... the elusive blowjob spacer

[truckingood]

ive got a diff drop spacers and bolts if your keen also have sway bar spacers too. and x3 cv's

[bronx89]

ive got a diff drop spacers and bolts if your keen also have sway bar spacers too. and x3 cv's

How much for the lot minus the CV's? New?