fj45 rat rod (ish)

Starting a project or modification? Then post it's progress here and show us some pic's.
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Heath »

So had some cave time today.

Cut out some rust and patched it and cut out the majority of the drivers floor area ready for a new one - when I get it made...

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Been thinking about the new column and loosing all the old switches and might keep em. Mind isnt made up yet, but the research into the column install shows it's not simple and some extra bits from late model 40's are required for it to work (wiper intermittent relay, etc). I'll wait until I gte to that point before I get carried away with decisions. I figure that decision is some way down the track. :mrgreen:
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Heath »

Not much happening at the moment (waiting for sheet metal to be folded and just rust being cut out).

I am going to be in trouble though if the missus finds the latest shiney bit for my ride. Nice shiney performance alloy intake manifold at a price too good to walk away from ($189) from Kruzin Kustoms.

After deciding on this I am now wondering if it will alter the finished height of the air cleaner as there was only about 10mm clearance between it and the bonnet. Might have to look for a scoop or power hump to accommodate it :wink: .

Just looking at the geometry of the drive line and it looks like I will have to lower the transmission crossmember (was going to make up a custom one later but might have to do it sooner :roll: ). At the moment the engine/trans line is not pointing anywhere near the rear axle (about 8 inches above if not more - I assume this will change when the cab etc is fitted and the rear springs are compressed little (and lowering blocks fitted), but will still need sorting I guess. Probably too soon to be worrying about it at the moment anyway, but wary moving it before I secure the body in place (dont want to have to move later it because the engine has rotated back into the firewall and now has no clearance.

On the plus side it will lower the cleaner height a little :mrgreen:
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Drivers floor out, just need the sheet metal to put the new one in.
Next weekend maybe...

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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Heath »

Some bling...

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Looks to be about the same height as the factory one (by eyeometer) so maybe the bonnet clearance will be okay.

Oh yeah and I picked up the folded sheet metal for the floor pan repairs today too.
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Dr_PC »

Going good
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Heath »

Got some shed time today (why does it go so quick and I don't get much done?).
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Cut and fitted the new floor sill piece. Rust out and new piece spot welded in ready for the floor pan to be spot welded in when I cut it to size and get the swages put into the flat floor piece. My spot welds got a bit hairy at one stage and I thought I must be running out of gas but it was a breeze I hadn't noticed coming from behind me.
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Started shaping the new drivers floor pan today.

After 90 mins of cutting and shaping I'm getting there. Will have to get some swages put into the floor for stiffening (will pay for that rather than try banging them in by hand - havent got the right shaped panel beating hammer for that anyway - and it will be neater if done right).

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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Got a little time tonight to have a play around. I figured instead of paying someone I would have a go at the swages myself. If it didnt work out I'd pay for it, so a spare bit of steel some wood and a couple of hammers...

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Not too bad considering I am making things up as I go along, but I saved some money for other stuff...
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by surf10 »

looking good. I like the improvisation for the swagging looks like it turned out quite neat.
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Heath »

Got the floor in on the drivers side.

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Started out by lap joints and plug welds and then some spots on the edges to give it a little more rigidity (was tinkering to be honest).
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Front edge of the floor pan I wanted a little more than a few extra welds so I ran a complete weld along the lap joint.
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All in all not too bad (if I say so myself), nothing a grinder cant tidy up and as its underneath I don't care about the look as long as its strong (and the certifier likes it). Passenger side should be a bit quicker as I have sorted out how I will do it (driver's side was the practice run :? ).

Just have to do the reinforced bit the body mount attaches to, but I'll do that at the same time as the other side.
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by catalystracing »

Love the work 8) , always keen to see new posts. Keep it up. :mrgreen:
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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So... ripped the passenger side floor out during the weekend (This side was definitely worse than the drivers side).

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Been thinking about a small part of the drivers floor repair and might have another go at it (not happy with the result, it looks ...?... a bit off)
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Fiddled with my CO2 bottle and it appears the flow rate was a bit low (turned it up and suddenly it got better - still spitting like a bastard and a bit ugly but rust will do that (cant get it all off))

Fitted a new sill piece into place and welded it in. Fiddled with Mig and got better flow and filled in some cuts I had made in the side. End results were tidied up with a little mr angry (grinder).

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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Got some more time in the man cave and the passenger side floor is now tacked in, but will have to finish it later as I ran out of gas. Will have to wait till next weekend to finish it.

New floor pan made.
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Both floor pans in. Well kind of... :mrgreen:
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Been a little delay to proceedings as I ran out of gas. Took the lil bottle in for a fill and got told it was out of date too. Took two weekends to get it back (went to Jafaland for one so not too bad).

I had hoped it would fail and I could justify a new argon mix bottle, but no... it passed so I bought it a new regulator.

On with the project.

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Almost finished the passenger floor pan replacement.

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The tricky bit is done too. Redid the drivers side to match this side (was never happy with it) and now all that is left is to put the body mount reinforcing parts into place. Then roll it over the right way so I can finish the floor installs from the inside.

Then I'll drop it on the chassis and see if it fouls the tranny (I think it will - I'll be dropping the tranny mount down a touch I think to compensate, which will level out the donk a bit too).

Got to find one of those magnetic based drill/mill units to cut the holes for the body mounts on the box chassis so I can get this body mounted properly.

Of course once it is right way up I will have to deal with the rust in the top of the body... Never ends does it.

Anyone had their front holden HQ-WB hubs offset drilled/milled to take 1/2 inch studs in a ford stud pattern? I want to run one type of stud pattern with just one spare if I can. Worst case scenario I will have to hunt out a multi fit spare wheel.
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by derk »

Heath wrote:Of course once it is right way up I will have to deal with the rust in the top of the body... Never ends does it.


It never does end mate, would be money well spent getting the whole lot sandblasted and primed or hidden rust will continue poking its head out of all the seams and hidden places long after you think you've got the last of it :D
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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derk wrote:
Heath wrote:Of course once it is right way up I will have to deal with the rust in the top of the body... Never ends does it.


It never does end mate, would be money well spent getting the whole lot sandblasted and primed or hidden rust will continue poking its head out of all the seams and hidden places long after you think you've got the last of it :D


That's in the plan for the cab when I think I am finished it (so I can fix the bits I didnt see before painting), and it will give a good surface to apply all the bog to :mrgreen: .
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by 4wdstuff »

Got to find one of those magnetic based drill/mill units to cut the holes for the body mounts on the box chassis so I can get this body mounted properly.


What size holes you doing, unless really big just use a elec hand drill on low speed with hole saw. Other option is to use a step drill for holes in thin materials http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/drills-accessories/auction-721587354.htm

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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Heath »

This is the sort of thing I was going to use (hire isnt too bad either)

http://www.specialisedtools.co.nz/home/ ... eco50.aspx
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by DMcCready »

Those mag drills with the broach cutters are great and super fast. When drilling thin material we commonly have issues with there not being enough magnetic force to keep the drill clamped to the job. Those cutters love to walk all over the place if you havnt got a good clamp. We fix that by using a scrap piece of 16 or 20mm plate under the plate we are drilling to add thickness for the magnet to work properly( watch your fingers when you are turning on the magnet :shock: )

food for thought if you cant get access to the underside of the piece you have to drill...
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by ChurchurDan »

A Rotabroach is definitely the way to do it.
You could get you hubs re-drilled to the ford pattern between the existing studs, Just check with a certifier first that it will be allowed. Or you can use bolt on adapters.
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Heath »

ChurchurDan wrote:A Rotabroach is definitely the way to do it.
You could get you hubs re-drilled to the ford pattern between the existing studs, Just check with a certifier first that it will be allowed. Or you can use bolt on adapters.


Hubs have ribs between the stud positions so cant drill between. Was thinking if I could find bigger stud bases I could get the holes milled bigger and offset slightly (not much between the ford and hq pattern - only a few mm). The bigger bases would allow for offset drilling - just have to find bigger based studs... :?
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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DMcCready wrote:Those mag drills with the broach cutters are great and super fast. When drilling thin material we commonly have issues with there not being enough magnetic force to keep the drill clamped to the job. Those cutters love to walk all over the place if you havnt got a good clamp. We fix that by using a scrap piece of 16 or 20mm plate under the plate we are drilling to add thickness for the magnet to work properly( watch your fingers when you are turning on the magnet :shock: )

food for thought if you cant get access to the underside of the piece you have to drill...


4mm SHS mild steel chassis rails, so hopefully enough meat for the mag to work. Hope to cut a small hole on top and larger one underneath. Will have to lift the chassis rails up on the hoist to get enough room to work though.
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Heath wrote:4mm SHS mild steel chassis rails, so hopefully enough meat for the mag to work. Hope to cut a small hole on top and larger one underneath. Will have to lift the chassis rails up on the hoist to get enough room to work though.


4mm should be enough for on top, underneath will depend on the drill weight, I had one fall off a piece of 5mm box.
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Might have to throw an f clamp on there too...
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Short to do list for the body (to remind me what is next as I'll loose the bit of paper :? )


*put on chassis (check clearances to transmission, etc - might change tunnel shape anyway just to get rid of the holes I will have to fill)
*mark position of mounts, remove body and drill pilots (must remember to buy a long drill bit - mine are too short). Replace body and use pilots to drill body mount hole positions.
*remove body and drill/mill large holes for mount rubbers
*enlarge body holes to take 12mm bolts/washers etc and find rubber grommet to cover internal holes. Drill drain holes and fit plugs to rails.
*Sand blast body (and panels maybe)
*Repair/grind ugly weld marks from when chassis was lengthened (where it was welded to jig) while body is off.
*Paint hard to reach bits of chassis
*fit body into place after painting underside and start fitting other panels - this leads off into the next phase of front end panel work, finding seats, radiator placement/fitting and plumbing (which will mean I can fire it up for more than a second or two), steering gear connected up... etc etc etc.


Hmm I thought it wasn't much but now I look at it, it will be a few weekends work to get it fitted and then more fun starts. Might have a body on shout for myself when I get there.
Last edited by Heath on Fri May 23, 2014 10:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

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Got an hour in the shed tonight so I figured I would get the body mounting plates in.

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Also got the smaller plates that reinforce around the actual bolt hole done too, but not welded in. I'll add a few more holes to plug weld before I fix them in place. I've put one above the other so you can see its shape.

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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Dr_PC »

floors looking good, and the list is getting smaller, you're well on the way mate keep at it
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Heath »

Cheers Dan.

Hard case thing about lists is that as stuff comes off the top more goes on the bottom... but it is getting closer to the end (or at least being driven each time something is crossed off).
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Heath
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Re: fj45 rat rod

Post by Heath »

Some extra time in the shed tonight allowed me to get the mount reinforcing plates on and the chassis marked out for new mounts )also drilled the pilots for the rear mounts.
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other side looks the same too so no picture.

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Just a few more of the small jobs to do before fitting (packer for rear mount, etc).
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