42's On ln60/61 surf,

[The WEHI]

So has anyone run or running 42's ive been searching the world of google for sometime trying to find a decent picture, to figure out how low people have managed to keep there trucks while running 42's, so if you have any ideas or advice, pictures, been there done thats let me know

Cheers Jordan

[derk]

how much bodywork do you want to chop off and how much do you want to retain , go have a look at the yank forums and search mini truck and four runner they're pretty keen on all that shit

[rokhound]

I could easily run 42's but why would you? I reckon the hilux diff heads are at their max on the 40" tyre (and that's assuming you know how to drive properly without thrashing it for no good reason).
And if your answer to that is "I will run bigger diffs", Then you are going to have to look at 44's and above to overcome this. Then you start getting into interesting vehicle dynamics. It's called centre of gravity. If you start getting it too high (like all the pencil dicked boys seem to think is cool) you will end pouring a lot of money into a complete pig.
If on the other hand your modding skills are such that you keep COG in check by keeping it low, but still usable, go with the biggest boots you can get your hands on.
Plenty of people around here who can tell you how a big tyred truck is a major hand full (mainly because of sidewall deflection, which you can't compensate for or even know when it is going to fold over).
If I ever boot the spiders out of my POS, I will take you for snort, or hit up Nibby, at least his is a runner currently.

[lax2wlg]

Personally I can't think of a stronger/better packaged axle available in this country than a fully worked, full beef Toyo 8".

Not cheap but will jizz all over an OEM Nissan 9.25" unit without the weight/clearance penalty.

[derk]

Personally I can't think of a stronger/better packaged axle available in this country than a fully worked, full beef Toyo 8".

[The WEHI]

Calm down rok It's staying as low as i can get it Chopping the body is limited by the window line on the canopy im not overly hard on gear unless panel's are counted then im screwed, thing im more interested in is how people have gone about chopping the front inner gaurds,

and how big is to big. plan is the trucks only high enough now for 33's and i dont want to make it any higher, it will be on safari axles front and rear with 5.13's and dual transfers originally planned on 37's-39.5 but theses 42's popped up for a pretty penny,

p.s i hate spiders but they can wheel to let them tag along

[derk]

be a lot easier to put a single cab on it and ditch the front guards and make a tube frame front mate.

there's lots of variables in it with suspension height, up travel, axle width, rim offset, you really need to mock up your suspension first and cycle it around to see what sort of clearance you've got.... or haven't got in your case

[The WEHI]

be a lot easier to put a single cab on it and ditch the front guards and make a tube frame front mate.

there's lots of variables in it with suspension height, up travel, axle width, rim offset, you really need to mock up your suspension first and cycle it around to see what sort of clearance you've got.... or haven't got in your case

Very true, ill build it first then chop once im dead set i can get the 42's under it without it being a useless truck that needs a new body to go smaller tyres lol

[rokhound]

It is fairly straight forward to chop the whole front clip off the LN60 (I have done it to two of them now). The major trick is to relocate everything that is mounted on the inner guards to somewhere else (this takes a loooottttt of time to do). Once it is all clear you can carve as much as you want off the inners.
What do you want to do with the truck though? If it is just a mud pig, then no big issues, but if you want some articulation so it is useful, you have some work to do on the rear as well.
What type of suspension are you looking at running? It is useless having a rig that flexes it all in either the front or the rear as it makes the whole thing unstable, you want to aim to have the same amount of flex at both ends and the truck achieving this evenly when maxed out. This means that at max droop on opposing corners, the body still sits level.

Ultimately you need to build the whole thing in your head, put it down on paper (lots of paper), and then work backwards from there.
As I said,if it is just a mud pig, a lot of this isn't required, but I seem to recall you saying somewhere that you wanted to do some back country exploring in the areas that are not accessible to most (you know what I mean ) May seem over the top to you, but just because the boots are a good buy doesn't mean you wont drop a lot of coin and time on the rest of it (well to do it to a good standard anyway ).
Bring it on and let the cutting begin.

[The WEHI]

like we talked you know what i want to do that mud stuff doesn't appeal to me, the 42's were purchased because im 100% certain at this price i won't lose money on them the smaller variants get good reviews on rocks from alot of people and yourself and i can say i have 42's that there is the best reason for buying 42's like you say my aim is to make it a well balanced suspension wise while getting the most usable flex and the most up travel while staying low and stable, not so much flex you get to a point it unloads and you fall over though,

[Filthy4x4]

Something like this?

[rokhound]

:mrgreen: like we talked you know what i want to do that mud stuff doesn't appeal to me, the 42's were purchased because im 100% certain at this price i won't lose money on them the smaller variants get good reviews on rocks from alot of people and yourself and i can say i have 42's that there is the best reason for buying 42's like you say my aim is to make it a well balanced suspension wise while getting the most usable flex and the most up travel while staying low and stable, not so much flex you get to a point it unloads and you fall over though,

Awesome. Bring the noise and get busy

[slidenyo]

if your truck is on 33's currently and you don't want to raise the roof height you must account for moving the diffs upwards in the chassis 4.5",
which would likely be a z'ing and c notching exercise.
but then you must account for driveline and engine components hanging low, clocking the transfer to keep the front driveshaft happy etc etc.
Will be a cool project though , look forward to the pics

[The WEHI]

if your truck is on 33's currently and you don't want to raise the roof height you must account for moving the diffs upwards in the chassis 4.5",
which would likely be a z'ing and c notching exercise.
but then you must account for driveline and engine components hanging low, clocking the transfer to keep the front driveshaft happy etc etc.
Will be a cool project though , look forward to the pics

By using my eye-o-meter i think it will work with gaining possibly 1-2 inch's in roof height, which includes ditching the 2" body lift it currently has, taking in to account it currently has room (bump stop clearance) for 6-7inchs of up travel which i dont mind losing some of as wheel travel will be more with the wider axle all be it not alot more, i am also used to hitting bump stops often in my landcruiser haha,

[rokhound]

Mine sits 12" above a std height one on the 39.5's. It has 14" travel shocks on the front and 16" on the rear and You've seen the cross it up pics, so you know that it uses all the travel. I only chopped about 2-3" out of the guards, but with the wider axles I assume you will have to chop a bit more out.
Now go and get busy planning it