I am replacing the head gasket and checking the head due to a faulty thermostat.
I have everything off now, just have the timing to figure out before loosening final head bolts and pulling head off.
Do I need to get TDC sorted before taking head off?
Do I undo the nut on the camshaft end to whip off the cam cog?
does anyone have the sequence handy for bolting back up with specs etc?
I have other photos I can upload from work to this point.
Cheers
head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
Yes get it on tdc before removing timing chain. New head gasket usually has torque/tightening sequence on the packaging.
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
when putting it back together do everything in reverse really
and after u done the head bolts check it in 500ks cos u never no u never no 1 bolt might come loose like it did to me
and after u done the head bolts check it in 500ks cos u never no u never no 1 bolt might come loose like it did to me
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
I have printed off free manual with specs. Doesn't mention tdc. I have found a photo online showing it should have 2dots on cam cog centre top and two dark chain links. It's has no dark coloured chain links currently but does have 2 dots up on top cog...
The rod I put in the glow plug hole feels like the first cylinder is at the top.
Main questions. Are there definitely two dark coloured links in the chain to look for?
The rod I put in the glow plug hole feels like the first cylinder is at the top.
Main questions. Are there definitely two dark coloured links in the chain to look for?
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
Rotate the crank another 360° and check for the dark link there. There's a 2:1 ratio between the crank and the cam so you might be on number 4 tdc instead of number 1 tdc.
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
So should there definitely be a black link?
Also, once head bolts are out should head be tight? Do I need to crack the seal or something?
Also, once head bolts are out should head be tight? Do I need to crack the seal or something?
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
They can be quite well stuck on, find a lip somewhere round the head to lever off to break the seal, be careful not to damage gasket surfaces.
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
Head is off. The rubber mallet hammer did the job.
No crack visible to the eye in the gasket though. Is this normal?
Will send head off on Monday.
Photos straight off ipad are to big file.
For scraping off the block edging do I plug the holes first?
No crack visible to the eye in the gasket though. Is this normal?
Will send head off on Monday.
Photos straight off ipad are to big file.
For scraping off the block edging do I plug the holes first?
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
Turns out two of the water ways around piston 2 and 3 were all blocked and an oil feed was also a bit gunked.
Builds a good case for using antifreeze to avoid crap in the water building up.
Builds a good case for using antifreeze to avoid crap in the water building up.
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
zane wrote:
Builds a good case for using antifreeze to avoid crap in the water building up.
Is there any case for not using antifreeze


Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
Took the head in today and was told the crack is common in the glow plug chamber and that best I get a new head. Head ordered and will swap over all cams etc hopefully by Friday
Re: head replacement on 4m40-photos to come
Well folks. Truck all back together and is running mint. Job we'll done. Another skill learnt