lifting fj40

Denz · Post by **Denz** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 6:38 pm

Hi im thinking of doing a shackle reversal and spring over axle on my project 40. Im sure lots have done this and want to know how hard it was to certify is there anything major they look at? How much does it cost? Would you recomend it or does it get to top heavy? Thanks

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:11 pm

soa and reversal on a 40 huh?...

GOOD BOY!! :twisted:

use old springs.. free..
reuse old mounts.. free (if removed well)
new perches on diff.. cheap as..
high steer.. get another steering arm and invert with longer studs and a spacer, cheap..
amongst other crap..

other points of difference could be whether you want to cut and turn your front diff (to align front driveshaft better) or a double cardon joint in the driveshaft,also you can lengthen and/or shorten the driveshafts to accomodate a spring flip..

if ya gonna do all this work then i suggest a spring flp for better wheel base resultin in a nicer onroad ride and better approach departure angles..

always keen to see 40's gettin done..

wopass · Post by **wopass** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:01 pm

ahhhh...good times, great fun, hair loss, skinned knuckles.... lots of beer,mates,more beer.....

yea do it

callum007 · Post by **callum007** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:13 pm

a double cardan gonna run you about 600 for a nice new good working joint off a older hilux 30' operating angles..
I did my 70 cruiser.. bought high steer kit from snake racing with new steering arms.. $1600au perches you can make in 30 mins.. rest is history.. if you use old flat springs and turn the axle you should be ok using stcok driveshaft.. do the shackle reversal, best thing for a cruiser. hang the rear shackle for the front end through the chassis rail. saves making a mount and keeps overall height down..

remember measure 3 times.. makes more time for drinking..

MNC · Post by **MNC** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:46 am

While you are at it mate you might as well chuck in power steering & disk breaks.

I`m trying to tidy an old pair of 60 series diffs to go into my 40.

Will be doing SOA although flipped my wagon at our club xmas do (only cause of drive train failure during crucial part of steep hill climb). The 60 series diffs are 100mm wider so hopefully should help stop rollovers :oops:

Here is a pic of my wagon after the roll - cant even tell - Ha :twisted:

Although reckon I`m going to need some bigger tyres if I SOA (those a 33" boggers at the moment.

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 8:52 am

MNC wrote:I`m trying to tidy an old pair of 60 series diffs to go into my 40.

yeah!! go you good thing mnc!!!!

Denz · Post by **Denz** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 10:46 am

right well im keen to keep costs down really so was thinking of cuting and turning the front axle. if i do a spring flip as well will the driveshaft still be long enought? yeah disk brakes and power steering are also on the list. Is certification easy to get does it cost much?

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:21 pm

certification easy to get? depends on quality of work..

cost much? approximately $300ish...

MNC · Post by **MNC** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:36 pm

niblik wrote:... if ya gonna do all this work then i suggest a spring flp for better wheel base resultin in a nicer onroad ride and better approach departure angles...

Spring flip? enlighten me Nib. I`m excited - something I haven`t heard others talk of.

1UZFJ40 · Post by **1UZFJ40** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:51 pm

spring flip refers to turning the springs end for end, the axle is not in the middle of the spring on the front of a forty so spring flip moves the axle forward about three inches from memory,
if done with a shackle reversal it keeps the long side of the spring on the same side as the swinging shackles which is the best place for them.

mine got the works, spring over, flip, reversal, discs, and power steering.
cant tell you how it changes the handling cause it was not running when i got it... except now its a long way to fall if you slip getting out the seat!!!!!!!

MNC · Post by **MNC** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:43 pm

1UZFJ40 wrote:mine got the works, spring over, flip, reversal, discs, and power steering.
cant tell you how it changes the handling cause it was not running when i got it... except now its a long way to fall if you slip getting out the seat!!!!!!!

Hahaha.

OK, got it now.

You thought about getting the springs flattened a little so you dont sit so high? People seam to favour saggy old springs which sit a little flatter and flex better.

1UZFJ40 · Post by **1UZFJ40** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:43 pm

the springs are almost inside out now! the height is gained by having the spring over. the chassis height goes up by about 6 inches instantly with a SOA,
add in a body lift and big feet ( 2 inches in the body, about 2 3/4 inches in the wheels) and there you have the best part of ten inches....
i haven't measured the actual bumper height but my tow ball is next to useless for towing grandads garden trailer.

will be great for camping though, no need for a tent. can have a party under the chassis no trouble at all.

i personally like my springs a little on the hard side, suits my driving style both on and off road, for more flex i may chuck on extendable shackles in the rear.
in reality with all the tech in lockers these days theres not a lot of need for more than two wheels on the ground any way!!!

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:45 pm

youve been watchin callum007 drive.. :shock:

1UZFJ40 · Post by **1UZFJ40** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:49 pm

nice one , i'm not the only nutter.
most of my mates wont ride with me now, on the road , off it or at the speedway.

part of it may be the fact my river toy has no doors, gets rather damp when the river is over the bonnet

mudchuka · Post by **mudchuka** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 11:01 pm

im doin mine at the moment, have done the rear s.o.a, about to do the front, was thinking of taking out some of the leaves to soften her up a bit and to reduce overall height , the rear is now 8 inchs higher than before. it will not be road legal and is only for rallies and fundays, im going to run 35-10.5x 16 silverstones and will need to space the wheels out for stability, whats the easiest way to do this without overstressing cvs etc?, its running lpg 350 chev.
am thinking of spacers behind the rims and reversing the offset of the rims.

1UZFJ40 · Post by **1UZFJ40** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 11:15 pm

as the wheels go out so the stress on bearings increases, king pins too.

no way round it but the thing with a club truck is to keep it cheap,

my toy has 38x12.5x15 on it (161 safari swb with turbo3.3).
its had the centers cut out of the rims ( 10 inch whitespokes) then turned around and welded back in as far out as was sensible.
can be done in the shed rough enough with a welder and grinder and lots of careful measuring.
best dode by a engineer with a big lathe, use it to cut weld and true back up again.

mine was done by previous owner and was a rough job, the steering wheel is pretty lively at sixty plus km/h.

but has taken some serious hammering by me and have yet to bend an axle or anything with the extra loading. trust me i have had some serious air and some horrendous landings where i nearly punched out the screen and hit my chest on the steering wheel.
all in the name of fun...

lifting fj40

lifting fj40

;-p