fj45 rat rod (ish)

[Heath]

To be honest with you I have been playing around with my gas settings and I'm down to 10ish at the moment. Havent gone lower but since I got the new regulator I have better flow control and dont seem to be using as much (not emptying the tank in 3 weeks like last time - may have been leaking I think...?).

This bottle has been hammered, most nights for at least 45 mins of constant spot welding and looks to last for a few more - hopefully. Still thinking of going to argon mix/lite later if I get the funds (maybe if I get a Tig set up ) but for now, this is okay.

[Heath]

Almost done on this corner but lots of fiddly bits to sort (bloody rusty post to do yet )

[Heath]

About 95% of the way to finishing this cab back now. Some little bits to fabricate (reinforcing for bolt holes and base of cab back) and weld into place.


Will need to use a little bit of filler to smooth things out completely but I expected that anyway. At least all the rust is gone.


Fixed the rusty post too (cant see it), put in a new piece (rolled, put inside and welded into place)

[Heath]

Started the last tidy up before I consider this bit done (enough for now). Man did I like holding down the trigger on the welder when I first got it (bloody grinding a lot of steel off now - very time consuming).


last bits of reinforcing are in and just need to trim some bits to tidy things up (and weld up a gap I somehow missed the first time - because it is in a shit of a place I think).


Juuust about finished this side now.

Almost there until the next bit... the "to do" list never stops does it.

[Heath]

Finished mucking about and although there are still little jobs to do, it is as good as finished for now (the welding at least). I dug out the joint rubbers (and rear window rubbers) and they are just about stuffed so I'll have to chase down some new ones (found a place in Aussie if I cant get them in NZ)


Got the roof in for a look at the rust on it (put it behind the shed as it looked bad and decided I would deal with it when I had to) and after a quick clean I put it up in its place for a look.


Finished height on chassis is about 1600mm.


Hmmm a bit of rust here...

Here we go again.

[oldyella]

Keep chopping.

Thought you would do the front windscreen now then make the roof to suit?

[trucked]

this is going to turn out to be one cool truck/rat rod ish. Could imagine it will lay down some decent liquorice strips.

One request can you put up larger photos, just a bit hard to see the detail.

[Heath]

Pics are done with cell phone and are about as good as they get sorry (might be able to adjust the settings but not sure of size the site allows).

Doing the roof gives me the slope distance for the screen which then gives me the amount I have to chop to get it to fit.

[wjw]

looking good...

[ChurchurDan]

Are you going to lengthen the roof or tilt the window forward then modify the doors?

[Heath]

Roof remains standard, the screen will be laid back a touch to suit the roof height change but still utilise the std top and bottom fitting points.
Once the roof is on and the screen is done I will then cut the window frames on the doors and make them fit the chop also.

Dropped roof off to blasters tonight, so in a week I will have a rust free top bit with some large holes I suspect.

Had thought about tilting to roof forwards a little (4 inch chop front 3 inch at rear), but changes too many things and means more work.

[Heath]

Just ordered some rubbers for the windows and body joins. Not cheap but I got this lot under $400 (including postage) so should come through okay. Does cost of postage factor into the GST price or just the cost of the articles? If not I may get stung for gst as it was close with the currency conversion. If it is all inclusive then I will have to make sure I keep stuff in smaller bunches. Hope this one makes it through...

Got a shopping list of bits and will have to wait for the next credit card to be paid off before I buy again.

Cant get one bit (not made anymore), goes on the back of the cab between the cab back and the rear window carrying panel anyone have one in reasonable nick for cheap?

Also need the rubber that goes around the top of the doors and rear of the cab between the roof and the body panels too. Any one got one in good nick for cheap also?

[Heath]

Got an air sander to help with the prep work today. Should speed things up a little. Need to get some 80 grit paper though for the primary shaping and sanding of the old paint ready for repriming and painting (just a rough first couple of coats to seal things up).

Bloody bog I bought is proving to be unpredictable. I doubled the amount of hardener I was using and this seemed okay but today it doesnt seem enough again. I wasnt using it in the cold so this doesnt seem to be the problem. I think the hardener might be a bit crappy. I found some hardener from another brand so might give that a go. If that doesnt work I'll chuck this lot out and get another brand.

So not much progress but nice to have a weekend off to do other stuff (charged battery so might crank the engine over again for its monthly oil coating - may even chuck some juice down the carb and run it up again for shits and giggles).

[Heath]

ARHGGGGG!!!

Bog still soft 3 days later and the garage stinks of bog (it is going off but really slowly). I'll be pissed if I have to somehow scrape this stuff off and clean it up. Might give it another day before I get the scraper out.

Maybe it was a little cold and maybe the hardener is crap.

I have used bog before with no issues but this is a joke. So frustrated.

Me thinks I am going to chuck this shit out and get another brand (newtech or one I have used before.)

[De-Ranged]

I've never had bog take more than a night to fully cure.... and that was southland winter in a tin garage ..... my thought is you are putting that much time and effort don't risk it now to use up some crap it... you don't want to have to pull it off after you have painted because its cracking the paint or has lifted

Don't buy fancy brand name stuff, find out who supplies the panel beaters and buy there bulk product

[rokhound]

what reece said

[Heath]

Yup. Hearing ya's (and the voice in my head), just have to summon up the energy to dig it out.

To be honest after the first day I had given up on it and knew I would have to dig it out but I've been procrastinating.

I dont think I will muck around with another hardener either, just bin the lot and move on. Maybe I can take it back for a refund - yeah right.

[Heath]

Grabbed a tin of filler today from RJP on Tuam st. 3 litres and only 44 shackles. Thats less then twice the price I paid for 500mls.

Its a commercial product that the body shop guys use and he gave me advice on primers too (will grab some this weekend - after pay goes in).

The old stuff is going in the bin. Got a wire wheel for my die grinder too to rip out the old stuff.

[ChurchurDan]

Get some strip-ez disc's for your grinder to rip it out they are much nicer on the metal underneath.

[Heath]

90% clear now and I've got some of those disk thingees so I'll polish it up tomorrow before I restart the bog.

[Heath]

New bog is CHER!!!


Its blue and works like a charm.

[oldyella]

When you get to it, I recommend a filler primer to smooth out the interface between the bog and the steel, then final two pot-primer coat to seal everything then a final rub-down with wet & dry.

I have found the top coat has stuck MUCH better to the two-pot primer compared to the filler primer.

[Heath]

Got to figure out what paint I am going to use (acrylic/laquer etc) before I get too carried away and use the wrong primer.

Of course it will depend on what the original paint is too as I wont be removing it all, just priming the lot and then repaint complete.

I'd hate to get to the final step and blow some colour on, have it all turn to shit because I cocked up one of the first steps (lots of sanding to fix that sort of mistake).

Final colour when it is all blinged up will be a satin black with gloss black flame job (ghost flames) with a tinge of something to make it stand out a little. Putting clear coats on may prove a little difficult with a satin finish so the top coat will have to be durable and weather okay.

At this stage I am not sure if a laquer or enamel is best but I am leaning towards laquer (not for any real reason).

At this stage I only have aerosol cans of filler primer (or will have when I decide on which type), but with my compressor I am happy to buy a gravity sprayer later on. Not sure on two pac paints but it just means another skill to learn.

[rokhound]

2 pack durepox primer by resene. Hard to beat and hard as nails. All my gear (trailers, mobile plant, trucks and the mutt) have been under coated with this stuff. Apparently, you can use it as a top coat as well by adding clear into the mix (if you want a gloss)

[Heath]

2 pack durepox primer by resene. Hard to beat and hard as nails. All my gear (trailers, mobile plant, trucks and the mutt) have been under coated with this stuff. Apparently, you can use it as a top coat as well by adding clear into the mix (if you want a gloss)

Hard to use? Need piles of extra PPE gear, flash gun, thinners, spray booth and heaters?

I'd like to do this once and as I am finding the easy way isnt necessarily the right way... I am intending to do the painting in my garage with drop cloths as walls around the "paint booth". I guess I could chuck in an oil column heater to warm things up (or paint in summer only - yeah, nah )

I think I have some homework to do.
Still have to sort the chassis paint yet (POR15 is currently the leader of the pack, but there is another that might fit the bill).

[rokhound]

I'm quite sure under all the H&S bullshit there will be requirement for filtered extractors, air supply helmet etc, but I have done all 9 of vehicles in the shed (or outside). It is best to have some heat in the area you are doing it, but you are going to need that no matter what paint you use. Wear a good mask (not a pos paper thing), good gloves and cover your eyes if you can, disposable overalls, and away you go. I use a gravity feed gun (about $150 for a half decent one).
Now before all the professional painters have a go at me, this is advice for a DIY job, and is no way intended to be read as best practice.

Do some reading Heath (google and you tube)

[Heath]

Yep been googling and u-tubing all afternoon. Missus is a bit pissy but I've learned that I dont know much - LOL

[smurf182]

The more research you do the more you realise that if you want to be truly safe, you need to use a supplied air system for 2k paints (or probably any paint spraying work). There is no shortage of horror stories, and you only get one set of lungs.

The impression I got is that some people can tolerate isocyanates (the nasty shit in 2k paint) for years, and some people get a faint whiff of it and suffer an asthma attack.

That being said, I used a 3M 7500 half mask with 6001 cartridges. Make sure the mask is sealing to your face properly every time you put it on (this means no facial hair). Store the cartridges in a sealed bag when not in use, and replace both the cartridge and pre filter regularly. Gloves, overalls and [multiple sets of] goggles are essential.

I did my painting in a garage with the door open, even with HVLP guns which create much less overspray you don't want anyone else in the vicinity unless they have the same PPE as you (think neighbours kids playing the driveway next door).

I used an HVLP gun from supercheap, despite the price ($100 for 3 of them!) it worked very well with one major exception. The pattern adjustment knob was very loose and close to your thumb, hence it got knocked a lot with a quarter turn changing a beautiful fan spray pattern into a hose pipe. All my runs were caused by this, when I use them again I will lock it in place somehow once the pattern is set.

[Heath]

The more research you do the more you realise that if you want to be truly safe, you need to use a supplied air system for 2k paints (or probably any paint spraying work). There is no shortage of horror stories, and you only get one set of lungs.

The impression I got is that some people can tolerate isocyanates (the nasty shit in 2k paint) for years, and some people get a faint whiff of it and suffer an asthma attack.

That being said, I used a 3M 7500 half mask with 6001 cartridges. Make sure the mask is sealing to your face properly every time you put it on (this means no facial hair). Store the cartridges in a sealed bag when not in use, and replace both the cartridge and pre filter regularly. Gloves, overalls and [multiple sets of] goggles are essential.

I did my painting in a garage with the door open, even with HVLP guns which create much less overspray you don't want anyone else in the vicinity unless they have the same PPE as you (think neighbours kids playing the driveway next door).

I used an HVLP gun from supercheap, despite the price ($100 for 3 of them!) it worked very well with one major exception. The pattern adjustment knob was very loose and close to your thumb, hence it got knocked a lot with a quarter turn changing a beautiful fan spray pattern into a hose pipe. All my runs were caused by this, when I use them again I will lock it in place somehow once the pattern is set.

Cheers good advice there. I have nitrile gloves (rip easy, but double glove is cool), old overalls and full face 3M respirator with tear away screen shields (will sort the right filters of course dependant on paint type and shave more often I guess...) and use a half face one for sanding/welding. Supa chump will probably get a visit for the gun if I cant get a reasonable priced on elsewhere.

[oldyella]

I think you will find 2k primer will be worth the effort. I had issues with my filler primer reacting with bog but only on some panels. Which is why I went down this route.

It removes the risk of your top-coat reacting. I used enamel 600 super gloss topcoat. No topcoat or buffing required. You can also get them in Sat or Mat.

Also, for your chassis, I used the same enamel 600 supergloss in black. Makes for easy touch up's and is cheap as chips.