Building Up a Nice Wagon

[Wild_South]

Hi there,

Further down in this Topic is a thread by me about my 1KZ Surf. Recently, I was offered some crazy good money for it so ended up selling it. As always, as good as the money was that I got for it, it was my baby and a part of me regrets offloading it. So basically, I am going to get another one.

I am looking at buying a tidy 200km-250km 1KZ Surf, around the '93-'5 mark. Hoping to spend around $5500-$6000. I will then build it up into a daily driver but also my fly fishing, hunting and play vehicle.

I have a few questions:


1) I have heard contradicting theories on whether to buy one that has already had its head replaced or not. Some say that buying one with its head already done (providing its a good quality genuine Toyota Head) it means you'll have "trouble free trucking" for the next few years.

Conversely, I have had people tell me that there was a reason the head failed and that you should avoid engines that have had replacements.

What are your thoughts, please?




2) Km's vs Care. Most of the trucks that are within my price bracket are around the 240,000km mark on orignal engines. I will only buy one that has had a clean history report, proof of regular services etc. So should kms this high worry me? I will be putting on mods such as a 3" exhaust, dump pump, trans cooler etc.




3) Modifications prices (estimated). Once I get myself a nice wagon my mods list is as follows:

- 2" suspension lift (http://www.4wdbits.co.nz/ProductDetails ... uctID=4735 - what is this like?)
- 32" tires (what are a good daily as well as offroad capability?)
- 15x8 black steelies
- Exhaust system (2.5" or 3"? Wanting it to cool the engine efficiently)
- Snorkel (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 492238.htm)
- Transcooler (auto trans - can anybody recommend me a good one?)
- Roof racks with roof cage (spare tire), and mount spotties on the front of the cage (thinking Rhino rack?)

How do these mods sound? Correct me if I am wrong, but with just a 2" suspension lift I will not require a cert?



Any advice on building a Surf would be greatly appreciated!

[tweake]

1) they are light diesels, they all eventually crack the head.
however most of the head cracks are due to overheating. typically radiator problem but worn injectors, gunked up intake will also do it via high egt's.
at high km's the radiator will be rotten or replaced.

2) care and hows it been driven.
sometime the worse cars are immaculate little old ladys cars that have done low milage but absolutely no servicing done on it. ie its been a good cheap car never had to do anything on it.
you get it then everything starts to fail.
but you can get 300,000+, had a hard life but serviced well and they keep going.
also most will have wound back speedo's

3)
important ones.
trans cooler
big exhaust. 2.5" is enough 3" if you want.
dump pipe. a couple of people here make them.
intercooler.
service, reco injectors and new glowplugs.

suspension efs kit is good. ball joint lift saves winding up the torsions. keeps it soft. but technically it needs certing, but most wof guys don't see it if its the small lift.

[Wild_South]

1) they are light diesels, they all eventually crack the head.
however most of the head cracks are due to overheating. typically radiator problem but worn injectors, gunked up intake will also do it via high egt's.
at high km's the radiator will be rotten or replaced.

2) care and hows it been driven.
sometime the worse cars are immaculate little old ladys cars that have done low milage but absolutely no servicing done on it. ie its been a good cheap car never had to do anything on it.
you get it then everything starts to fail.
but you can get 300,000+, had a hard life but serviced well and they keep going.
also most will have wound back speedo's

3)
important ones.
trans cooler
big exhaust. 2.5" is enough 3" if you want.
dump pipe. a couple of people here make them.
intercooler.
service, reco injectors and new glowplugs.

suspension efs kit is good. ball joint lift saves winding up the torsions. keeps it soft. but technically it needs certing, but most wof guys don't see it if its the small lift.

Thanks for that tweake. So in regards to the head again: with what you said it mind it appears that they will all crack heads eventually, so surely this means buying a Surf that has already had a genuine head replacement is the best idea? Is this correct?

Scott

[tweake]

IF its had the main cause of the problem fixed then yes buying one thats had the head replaced is a good idea. the ones to avoid is one with new head but has rotten old radiator, blowing smoke from poor injectors etc.
its probably already started to crack by the time you buy it.

[Sheepy]

I've pretty much just bought what you want. 94 KZN130 270km 1 NZ owner with FULL serice history (old mans truck, so I know exactly whats been done to it)

The first thing I did was Fenix alloy radiator, and a big ass trans cooler. and no more over heating. The Viscous fan hub had been changed about a year ago. Surfs seem to suffer from ECU failures, and mine is no exception. Next week the ECU is being repaired ($180) and hopefully that will fix the trans not shifting, and it's apparent lack of grunt.

It's not my daily, so I ended up doing a 2 inch body lift, and a 2 inch suspension lift, and fitting 32x11.5x15 tyres on 15x8 -19 steel wheels. I have disabled the EGR, and have got a boost gauge, and a EGT gauge to be fitted shortly.

I am in the process of building a 3 inch exhaust, and will have a downpipe made up asap. once the exhaust is done I am going to see about fitting my Isuzu intercooler, and sort out a snorkel. At that stage it is pretty much where I want it. Then it's a matter of saving so I can sort out a rear auto lock diff and front free wheeling hubs.

I too would like to sort out a roof rack and a tray, but being gutterless it's a PITA to sort out, and costly, the Rhino system is $550 plus the tray ($-500). That's a lot of gear I could buy that will get me a lot further in the bush.

I have taken it to Woodhill and it performed flawlessly, however the lack of LSD was instantly noticed, so the rear auto locker has moved up the list to be done asap.

[Wild_South]

Sounds exactly what I want! Haha

[wjw]

I too would like to sort out a roof rack and a tray, but being gutterless it's a PITA to sort out, and costly, the Rhino system is $550 plus the tray ($-500). That's a lot of gear I could buy that will get me a lot further in the bush.

I have been watching trademe for Thule racks for months and the guterless ones come up more regularly than the gutter ones

[Sheepy]

With the rivet on rail ones. I haven't been watching TM to be honest. I should probably start.

[Big]

Im at work. .but post a link for a trans cooler I have.. it's epic.. will post numbers when I get home

[Wild_South]

Yeah I'm also wanting rivet ones so a cage can be mounted behind the sunroof. Then I want to mount spotties on the cage

[philux]

I Had a similar kzn130 that i slowly built up. I ran the efs suspension that you have in the link. Wont give you super massive flex but much better than stock. I found no problems with it, couple of lockers and manual hubs i didnt have many problems. Only issue i really had was bending of the idler arm with the 33x12.5 kl71s and cooking the head but mind you i was pushing it with the egts and I was so close to the top of the hill....lesson learnt. If i kept it i would definitely but a brace around the idler arm. Same boat as you kind of regret it now.

[Big]

this is the cooler I use
Derale 13700 Electra-Cool Remote Cooler
from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Derale-13700-Elec ... ion+cooler

was about $135 US + freight ( https://www.nzpost.co.nz/tools/youshop) and the numbers are awesome..around 60degs coming out of the cold side cruising and gets to around 75 degs thrashing it.. the thermostat is set to 82 degs and it works a treat.. Get the auto thermostat switch too to make it just fit and forget it..

[Wild_South]

I Had a similar kzn130 that i slowly built up. I ran the efs suspension that you have in the link. Wont give you super massive flex but much better than stock. I found no problems with it, couple of lockers and manual hubs i didnt have many problems. Only issue i really had was bending of the idler arm with the 33x12.5 kl71s and cooking the head but mind you i was pushing it with the egts and I was so close to the top of the hill....lesson learnt. If i kept it i would definitely but a brace around the idler arm. Same boat as you kind of regret it now.

Did you have any heat prevention stuff Philux? Ie: big exhaust and dump pipe, transcooler etc?

Scott

[Wild_South]

this is the cooler I use
Derale 13700 Electra-Cool Remote Cooler
from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Derale-13700-Elec ... ion+cooler

was about $135 US + freight ( https://www.nzpost.co.nz/tools/youshop) and the numbers are awesome..around 60degs coming out of the cold side cruising and gets to around 75 degs thrashing it.. the thermostat is set to 82 degs and it works a treat.. Get the auto thermostat switch too to make it just fit and forget it..

Cheers Big! Will look at that mate

[philux]

The owner before me put a trans cooler on. I got a 2.5inch exhaust and a dump pipe put on. Made quite a difference. Also had a mechanical fuel pump on. Cooked it going up the the kilmog, I knew I was pushing it past its limits to get up the hill oober quick and it bit me in the arse. Never had a problem since with the new head and keeping a good eye on the egts

[Wild_South]

The owner before me put a trans cooler on. I got a 2.5inch exhaust and a dump pipe put on. Made quite a difference. Also had a mechanical fuel pump on. Cooked it going up the the kilmog, I knew I was pushing it past its limits to get up the hill oober quick and it bit me in the arse. Never had a problem since with the new head and keeping a good eye on the egts

I assume you have an aftermarket EGT gauge; what brand do you use?

[Sheepy]

Me personally I have a Auberins EGT waiting to go in. I stripped the exhaust off mine today and got all the bits for the 3 inch system. I'm going to buy a downpipe from Kaiapoi Repowers though, as making it is going to be a PITA

[philux]

The one I used back then was just a cheap autoguage one, Never took it above 700 and never had a problem again.

[zed]

Best place to put the EGT sender is pre turbo in the middle of the exhaust manifold. On the 1kz this means (if using the Auber sender) that it at full extension. The middle of the manifold will have the fastest moving gas. Also use the biggest screw in fitting possible (I used 1/4 BSP) so you have lots of thread surface area...the manifold is very soft metal. Or weld it in. With the Auber gauge too you can set a trigger point to say turn on a meth sprayer to cool down the EGTs further if towing etc.

[Heath]

this is the cooler I use
Derale 13700 Electra-Cool Remote Cooler
from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Derale-13700-Elec ... ion+cooler

was about $135 US + freight ( https://www.nzpost.co.nz/tools/youshop) and the numbers are awesome..around 60degs coming out of the cold side cruising and gets to around 75 degs thrashing it.. the thermostat is set to 82 degs and it works a treat.. Get the auto thermostat switch too to make it just fit and forget it..

I was looking at one of those for my 45 project. Any difficulty getting it directly here to NZ or did you use a US based forwarding service. tried to buy lots of stuff only to have it stalled when the provider wont ship to NZ.