Sliders- weld or bolt

[jeffw]

I'm looking at getting some rock sliders/sidesteps for my safari and as per the title not sure which way to go, weld them on or bolt them?
I know welding them is stronger and requires cert

Is there any reason not to weld them on?

[Crash bandicoot]

I'm looking at getting some rock sliders/sidesteps for my safari and as per the title not sure which way to go, weld them on or bolt them?
I know welding them is stronger and requires cert

Is there any reason not to weld them on?

Generally the weld effects the metallurgy of the chassi rail in some way or form, and if the rock slider is torn from the chassi it tends to take a chunk of the chassi rail with it.

The reason people's bolted on rock sliders detach is down to how much area is used to sandwich the chassi rail.... whether drilling through and using crush tubes or ,Ubolts or traditional plates and bolts, the further apart you can make the bolts on each mount the less supseptable to bending they will be as it will take more leverage/weight to either bend or snap the bolts.

[snotgoblin]

Depending on the truck welding can just be easier...

That said I had not considered going through the rails to bolt them on.

If you do go down the welding, then certifying path. Think about other mods you want to do to your truck as it may be easier to get all mods certified at once. As any subsequent certifier will have to be happy that previously certified mods are still compliant...

[slide]

Doesn't require cert in many cases (pre 2003 you're all good).
Welding them on is harder to remove if you want to change (eg body lift, or put on another wagon), or straighten them later.
Bolting can be stronger than welding, really depends on mount designs.

[nismo26]

I'd bolt them on, is handy if you need to remove them and easy enough to do on a safari.

But if you are going to weld them on, weld a plate to the chassis then weld the sliders to that to spread the load.

[kbushnz]

I have welded plates to chassis and then plan to bolt onto these....Plates have been drilled and taped.

[Suza]

I choose to bolt mine on the Safari as there is really good scope to do it, made up some u brackets for attaching the rear and middle and then a bit of 65x65 rhs for the front that goes up into were the front body mount is. Main reason for my doing it that way was to avoid unnecessary cert cost. They are strong as strong have jacked of them bashed them and no movement

[crazyclark31]

I have done the same as suza and have never had issues with them moving.

[jeffw]

The ones I was thinking about were from Tom in Chch, but it seems bolt on are the way to go

[Mattman]

I got a set of side bars from Tom and made my own outriggers and U plates to bolt them over the chassis rails.

Strong as and easy to fit and remove and no mods to the truck.

Matt.

[Ashohman]

Mine are welded have a plate welded then slider welded to plate.

[rokhound]

Mine are bolted with the "u" or "c" clamp method and have been for over 15 yrs. I use my steps to lean the truck on rocks and then spin the whole rig around ( the steps become a pivot point). Never had an issue, but have seen some big problems with weld on jobs (torn chassis rails etc).

IMO side steps are THE MOST important bar work that can be done to your rig.

[tomsoffroad]

I agree with rok, they are a must.
Weld or bolt.... im from the weld camp, weld that shit on, weld everything on just use big fish plates which pick up on the top and bottom edge of the chassis cos thats where the most strength is on box section. Also cut the corners off the fish plates so you dont have a straight line of weld top to bottom otherwise if your even slightly to hot with your weld it'll crack.
My opinion is obviously weld, not necessarily because its better but because cert usually works out cheaper than paying someone to fabricate brackets. Chances are if your at a point of attaching sliders to your wreakage you have other stuff which should probably be certed anyways?

[jeffw]

I agree with rok, they are a must.
Weld or bolt.... im from the weld camp, weld that shit on, weld everything on just use big fish plates which pick up on the top and bottom edge of the chassis cos thats where the most strength is on box section. Also cut the corners off the fish plates so you dont have a straight line of weld top to bottom otherwise if your even slightly to hot with your weld it'll crack.
My opinion is obviously weld, not necessarily because its better but because cert usually works out cheaper than paying someone to fabricate brackets. Chances are if your at a point of attaching sliders to your wreakage you have other stuff which should probably be certed anyways?

It's currently stock standard, and up until 2 weeks ago was absolute mint without and scratches or dents, now it's time to start adding the bits to it

[tomsoffroad]

Nice. Excellent starting point

[evilknieval69]

Just to clarify, if your vehicle is not required to meet frontal impact laws (ie most vehicles pre 2000's without airbags) then you DO NOT need to cert WELDED on sliders!

There's no right or wrong way to do it, I welded mine on cos it was easier than making brackets to bolt it on. Do it however you want to.

[Smurf]

Just to clarify, if your vehicle is not required to meet frontal impact laws (ie most vehicles pre 2000's without airbags) then you DO NOT need to cert WELDED on sliders!

There's no right or wrong way to do it, I welded mine on cos it was easier than making brackets to bolt it on. Do it however you want to.

Do you have something to verify that. I would like it to show my WOF guy as I am planning on getting sliders sorted soon and welding my be an easier option. Cheers .

[Mehrts]

First I've heard about this "rule". Not that I've been actively researching it though..

[sig]

i,d be keen to find out about this "rule" as i,m about to go down the rock sliders road on my 80

[tomsoffroad]

I haven't heard about it either and would be keen to see the fact sheet if you have it please?

[Colinl]

Very interested in this one.

http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/v ... tal-impact

Found this which may shed some light.
Item 2 & Item 3 under "MODIFICATION"

[Slideways]

I just finished making these for my LWB GQ over the weekend.

I chose bolt on with c-clamp brackets because I didn't want to have WOF issues and I've made similar ones before on my old Landcruiser which worked well.

They should be strong enough I hope. I did think about adding bracing from the C-clamp brackets to the tube but didn't in the end. Wouldn't be too hard to redo them if needed.

Lots of fcking around getting them to fit right.

I used 4mm walled 42mm OD tube and 75x8mm flat bar for the the brackets.

[wjw]

[wjw]

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/stand ... Impact.pdf

Modifications that do not require certification
A vehicle is not required to be certified to the Low Volume Vehicle Code,
provided that the safe performance of the vehicle is not compromised,
where the only modifications to the vehicle are any one or more of the
following items:
(a) the fitment of additional cosmetic panels or accessories made from
fibreglass or other light-weight deformable materials; or
(b) the fitment of auxiliary lamps, provided that the lamps and their
fitment do not breach the general safety requirements of any
applicable safety-related legal requirements; or
(c) the fitment of auxiliary bars or racks, provided that the bars or
racks and their fitment do not breach any applicable safety-related
legal requirements.

I thought it was a structural issue, ie you are welding to a structural element.

[wjw]

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suple ... eshold.pdf

(had to make images shorter hence the mess...)

[Crash bandicoot]

the impact/crumple zone statement is redundant on anything that still has a chassi independent of the body.

As said earlier and explained by another member just the actual act of welding can weaken the chassi let alone welding any object to it, if not done correctly.

[evilknieval69]

The picture above of (2-1 external projections) is the evidence.

Lvvta cert is required UNLESS SPECIFIED BELOW. then it goes on to say that for auxiliary bars if the vehicle is not required to meet frontal impact laws then it is sweet. You could have an external roll cage without a cert too if you wanted.

Edit: sorry, also read item 3 here http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/v ... tal-impact
Where it says that a modification, including something welded to the chassis requires cert unless specified in the table, then it links to the table shown above.

[Ashohman]

Yup thats exactly what mines got going through cert atm and cert guy said my exo is a non issue so long as its up to wof standards ie not going to fall off or sharp or stick out to far from body. Theres some spec mesurement but I dnt know off the top of my head.just know mines all sweet.