WTD Pajero

[ToyZuki]

As per title, Im after a WOFed and Regoed Pajero.

I would rather that it was modded, lift, tyres, etc and the factory rear locker would be a massive bonus. But I'm still looking at standard trucks.

My preference is for it to be the 3.5 and Auto but again will look at all engines and trans type.

Thanks

James

[churchill]

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=41716

[evilknieval69]

I've got a 3.5 manual swb, 50mm lift with trimmed bump stops, custom sliders, custom winch bar, runva ewx9500 winch with in cab controls, 2.5inch exhaust, on board air, box in the back for recovery gear etc. has wof and reg, currently has 33's on. We'll maintained, have changed all oils very recently, cam belt is near new, clutch reasonably new.

Let me know your email if you are interested and want pics. Can sell with or without certain items for differing prices.

Would be wanting less than that one above has done 225ish kms

[ToyZuki]

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=41716

Would absolutely love this but sadly out of budget

[Bompie]

whats ya price range? know of a pj that may be for sale. 3.5 auto 50mm bodylift has cert 15x10 black rims 33s has front bar work done. not sure what else. ill check with friend this week.

[ToyZuki]

whats ya price range? know of a pj that may be for sale. 3.5 auto 50mm bodylift has cert 15x10 black rims 33s has front bar work done. not sure what else. ill check with friend this week.

Cool, if you could check that would be good. Im looking at 4-5k for a standard truck so if it has the right mods then I will obviously pay more for the right mods of course.

[Bompie]

Hi james
yea hes pretty keen to sell it, not sure if it has current wof n rego but has had this year, only thing I got wrong is its a 3ltr not 3.5.

his name is Will, give him a txt or call 02102286903

I told him lastnight about ya wanted ad and he was keen to get intouch.

cheers

Azar

[ToyZuki]

Bump, still looking.

Really after a 3.5 auto.

[Team Tonka]

Always a few on Trade me. $3500 should get you a decent standard one. Avoid 3.5 L one's with uneven idle (burnt exhaust valve) or shitty brown coolant. Check for oil leaks. Check for water leaks, especially down back of motor. Rear crank seal is only about $20 but take's a bit to swap! Easy to check exhaust valves - hold hand over exhaust and see if it pulls your hand back into the exhaust. 3.5L motor is worth it for the power but its a complicated engine and not easy to meddle with. 3L is like playing with Lego, 3.5L more like mechano. 6k redline is 205hp and 7k redline is 215hp for what its worth. They aren't expensive to mod so I'd go for a standard one that's not already been abused off road. I'd go with the following mods in this order;

1 - Fit a recovery hook to the front - $25
2 - fit a pintle hook to the back - $100
3 - 50mm sus lift - costs about $80 for LWB springs, the rest is spanner work
3 - 33" tyres with tubes. Buckshot mudders if its a daily driver, consider silverstones if not. Wheels with neg 22 offset
4 - Snorkel
5 - Bullbar and winch - Runva with Dyneema is hard to beat for the cost.
6 - traction aid. Options here - tighten rear LSD, Get Howatt eng to turn LSD into a locker, fit ARB locker, Change rear axle and ratio's to 4.86 and fit older model factory rear locker
7 - rock sliders
8 - Bar work as desired

Reckon that's enough to start with. No forgot one - extend breathers - front diff one is at back of airbox, gearbox and transfer case is at top of bellhousing behind engine, back axle is the worst one as it only links a few inches into the rear chassis member.

Have fun

[ToyZuki]

Thanks so much for the reply, I will def check out those things.

I've been watching TM for a few months now and the 3.5s seem to be going for about 4.5k in Auckland.

What's the deal with that company turning a LSD into a locker. Never heard of that before? I would prob look at tightening the rear LSD and then get a front air locker. 33" KL71s on offset rims and that will do for quite awhile

[NJV6]

Good yarn.

Only addition I'd say is if you are running aggressive tyres then I'd consider not changing to the 4.88 ratio, the axles are smaller and I know of 3 locally that have broken axles.

Interesting about the 3.5 6000 & 7000 rpm redline - I had always wondered what the difference was. Mine is a 6000 redline but there is no limiter there, I have seen it bounce into the 7's, it still goes well enough for me! Interesting comment about the exhaust valve too, mine dropped an inlet one at 100000km.

[Team Tonka]

Howatt eng fit a small hyd ram to lock the LSD. I've not used one yet but heard good comments and the trials guys like them. Cost is about same as arb locker.

Rev limiter stops both eng versions at 8k. I've found the smaller cv,s in the 3L are too weak for the 3.5L power but I,ve not managed to break a rear axle yet from the 3L. I run the factory locker at 20 psi too. It's in now as quick as the arb front one and been run that way for the last year.

Last season I went with the 3.5 auto and thought it went well, but this year fitted a pto winch so ended up with 3 pedals in the floor. I know an auto soaks up hp but the difference surprised me. Ye ha. Gone a bit breaking bad actually, wasn't much interested in burn outs and doughnuts being the wrong side of 50 but...... Can't seem to help myself now.

[ToyZuki]

So your saying that the auto saps loads of power and the manual is better. I suppose it depends what you do, for outright speed, you cant beat a manual but after duning in my mates LR auto, I just want to try an auto for myself as his fully stock Disco running road tyres showed up quite a few modded manual trucks. It just kicked down and kept going whereas the manuals just bog.

Did the 3.5s with the 9.5" diff not come with factory lockers?

You also see a few Pajero's advertised with 50mm electronic lift. I know the 3.5 and 2.8 come with a standard 30mm body lift so is the electronic lift on top of this? Meaning at full height, you dont need to fit a body or suspension lift?

[Team Tonka]

Auto v manual is a swings and roundabouts thing. Auto is definitely easier to drive and easier on the drive line. Land rovers benefit from a very low, low range. In fact I think their high range is reduced too in the transfer case. The 50mm lift is hydraulic and only works in low range unless you modify it. I've had 3 now with the hyd lift and none have worked, so be sure to check it when looking. They are cheap to lift though. Using LWB springs for the rear is hard to beat too. I was soft enough to spend $ on aftermarket springs that only lasted one outing. The LWB ones have had 3 years of abuse without breaking. They did do some 3.5's with rear lockers but they are as rare as hens teeth.

This one looks tidy but its got a boat behind it so be sure to check its arse end for rust.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =791351850

Cheers Andy.

[ToyZuki]

Thanks for the info Andy, it is most appreciated.

Funnily enough, that is the exact truck that I am going to look at tonight.

I will definitely be keeping an eye out for LWB springs and visiting some breakers.

[ToyZuki]

So I went to look at that truck tonight and all seems good except when the engine is idleling it seems to make a ping sound every few seconds. Wondering what this could be.

The exhaust doesn't pull your hand in and the coolant was OK but not great.

EDIT: been reading up and that pinging sound could be caused by the wrong fuel being used. The guy did say that he nearly ran out of petrol so threw fuel from an old jerry can for the lawn mower in there which I suspect could have caused the problem.

I suppose my question is, would you guys buy a truck that was pinging? Could it mean bigger issues?

[Team Tonka]

Spark plugs are a bit of a mission to swap so often get left for too long and plugs with a 3mm gap could be guilty. And no you don't need the expensive platinum ones, standard NGK are just fine. If its poor fuel it would hesitate when you blip the throttle too. The throttle body has a Teflon coated metal gasket and if its been reused once too often can let air in and cause a lumpy idle. Tired oxygen sensor can cause pinking. That's not something you buy in nz, if you do you'll walk out of BNT with blood trickling down your leg because you will have been well and truly bum f**ked. Get a bosch one off ebay. Search Montero or 6g74 (Pajero means wanker in Spanish so they changed the name over there). Dodge used this motor in a lot of their cars so engine parts on ebay are plentiful. Could be an injector and they are a sod to get at. The butterfly valves that control inlet length could be stuck. These are hard to pick with the auto but with a manual its like a 2 stroke coming on song when they open at about 4k. As I said before, complicated motor.

Best way to know if its anything major is to go test drive a nice one and get a feel for how they go. They go as well as a 3L on 5 cylinders so you need a benchmark.

Cheers Andy.

[BCGC]

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