Weird wiring / starter question 1991 WD21 with TD27 Swap

[implanted]

So,

I'm having weird starting issues and can finally not get it to start. Just clicking. I poked around and looked at the starter and noticed a wire that looks like it should be going somewhere, as the other one that comes from the connector Black/Pink or Red can't tell bolts to the stop of the starter. The yellow wire/ with green seems to be disconnected and I am thinking this may be my culprit.

Can anyone help me identify where I should have this thing hooked up to? The connector is on a WD21 automatic that was converted to manual and with the TD27.. I'm getting so annoyed trying to figure this out on my own and was hoping you guys could come to the rescue. The starting issue was intermittent so it would make sense that this wire has some significance.. Where should it go?

Thank you all!

Connector in question.. Located on passenger side behind the battery. Two prong connector with two wires Black /Pink and Yellow / Green:



Black / Pink and how it connects to the top portion of the starter.:



And finally the wire in question Yellow/ Green :



The million dollar question is where in the hell should this thing be connected?!

Thanks in advance guys!

[Crash bandicoot]

Cut the f#cker off and run your own wire from the ignition start position to the starter solenoid. Auto or manual petrol or diesel it doesnt matter. Just remember to have the gear stick in nuetral. I dont know why they ever put inhibitor switches on autos they ate safer to start in gear then a manual as the trans output will stall at idle with little resistance unlike a manual

[Crash bandicoot]

Td27 only hasthe one wire anyway and clicking probably means your battery is flatter then a pancake

[implanted]

Do you guys think that wire may have never even been connected? I have no idea what should or should not be on the truck is the confusing part. It has been intermittently starting for the past few months and I had it started yesterday. I'm thinking the starter may be shot but was hopeful maybe this wire was it? Was thinking someone might have some idea but understand this is a weird swap for a US truck. You guys are awesome, thank you all for your responses!

[implanted]

Battery is fine , can hear glow plug really click and starter click when you turn the key. In the past I was able to rock the key back-and-forth and then it would usually start. I had I running yesterday but had no luck today..

[Crash bandicoot]

is it a hitachi starter or a bosch, the bosch ones seem to crap out as there brass spindle bushed and bind up as soon as current is applied.

i take it it was originally a petrol? in which case i can't really help with with what wire does what only give you what you'd need, as ive only owned TD27 powered terrano/mistral etc from factory.

but at the end of the day once the starter is bolted to the gearbox it only needs two wires, the big arsed cable to the battery and one to the ignition switch.

generally though, nissan uses 16 gauge yellow and coloured striped wires for senders etc and may find it was the old sender wire for maybe the oil pressure or tachometer on the orignial engine.

[implanted]

Crash,
Thanks for the guidance.. I wonder myself its just strange that it was so intermitant that it seemed almost like a wire being disconnected or partially grounded could cause the issue. I'm not sure on the starter brand I'm sure that will be something next on the list.. If anyone else has further guidance here.. much apprciated from the other side of the world! You guys are so helpful and thank you again ahead of time!

[Fwb2700]

If rocking the key used to work it could be the opera terminals in the back of the ignition switch. 1 plug and 2 screws they normally out but I don't own a Nissan so I may be totally wrong.

I got one from the wreakers for $5 last time worked sweet as then onwards.

[3VILC]

Locate the terminal where the thinner wire attaches to the starter (this is the one from the key) (on a nissan it 'should' be black with yellow or white stripe but being US assembled may be different).
Using a long screwdriver with a well insulated handle, short the previously mentioned terminal to the big terminal that goes to the battery. Be careful not to touch any other metal including the starter casing. It will/should spark and hopefully engine winds over too.
If it starts this way (key needs to be ON obviously also) then theres a problem somewhere at the key end, if it still doesnt start then your batteries almost dead, starters dead, or the main engine earth is not connected/rusty/come loose. A starter with knackered solenoid/jamming drive gears etc will often also sometimes start by 'rocking the key' as you describe, once it gets worse (ie. doesnt start at all) sometimes you can give it a sharp but not so hard you dent the casing tap with a hammer while getting someone to hold the key in the START posistion, this might free it up and get it to start temporarily but obviously not a long term fix

[implanted]

So I feel dumb but relived. I drive a short distance to work and I think the battery was just depleted over time, just having enough juice to start when it was needed until finally dropping below the threshold. I got a test light and learned how to check at the starter, key switch etc and then stuck a multimeter on the battery, jumped it and what do you know it starts... Thanks again guys!