Just bought a Disco TD5

[Marco Polo]

Actually my first Land Rover but I've been looking forward to buying one for ages, but being unwilling to commit to one sight unseen I decided to wait until one came up locally. We wanted a 7 seater and having looked at Prado (ridiculous money and crap interior) and NM Pajero (nice wagons but diesels too dear and petrols a bit hungry) I decided to take the high risk route again and go for a Landy. Nearly every car we have ever owned is obscure and/or European and the internet and pub opinion is always blown out of proportion. I've never really been stuck with a lemon even when I had Alfas.
I have purchased a 2000 TD5 auto in dark metallic blue. It has 285k on the clock but I mainly bought it because the body work is so clean and ALL the electrickery works and has had important maintenance done like suspension air bags, injector loom etc. I was wary as it was a private import from the UK but I can't find any rust.
I just need to give it a full service so I'm happy with where it's at and start driving! It's not going to be a bush truck but family bus and tow vehicle, firewood trips etc.
Looking forward to sharing knowledge and tips.

Cheers!

[nstacey]

Join up to the aulro.com forum. It is full of knowledgeable TD5 owners. A bit of the content has recently moved to being subscription (nominal fee) based but it looks like can get the Discovery 2 "toolshed" type content without being a paying subscriber.

I would also suggest that you read around online when/if you do have any issues and if you don't do work yourself, find someone familiar with the TD5.

For example, a few years ago my parent's TD5 Discovery had a bad whistling noise on boost. A local mechanic advised a new turbo was needed and quoted us some steep prices for replacements. Dad and I got one in from the UK and fitted it ourselves, only to find the whistling noise was still present. A quick consultation online and it was suggested that the exhaust manifold may be warped at the head (a reasonably common issue). Sure enough it was and we could have got away with a $50 refacing job.

[Marco Polo]

More good news. No ACE, both air springs and the compressor have been done, and it has a very nice EGR delete kit fitted and the EGR bits have been disabled in the ECU. The seller also provided a transmission service kit so I'll do that soon. It has two sunroofs which I don't really like, but at least they're manual ones. Typically the hood lining is starting to sag but I think it might have a year or two left in it. Still happy!

[Marco Polo]

Finding some problems, as expected. Sluggish as hell from standstill, turns out the MAF is buggered. New one on the way. The boost modulator solenoid has also been bypassed, so has obviously had some issues in the past. MAP sensor is nice and clean though, must have been cleaned when the EGR delete was fitted. I need to get a boost gauge on her so I can see what is going on with the boost.
I may also replace the boost solenoid and start fresh with a factory set up. I am also contemplating buying a Nanocom but will hold off until I'm sure I am keeping this beast.
More goodness, it has drilled/slotted rotors and greenstuff pads all quite new!

[Crash bandicoot]

Finding some problems, as expected. Sluggish as hell from standstill, turns out the MAF is buggered. New one on the way. The boost modulator solenoid has also been bypassed, so has obviously had some issues in the past. MAP sensor is nice and clean though, must have been cleaned when the EGR delete was fitted. I need to get a boost gauge on her so I can see what is going on with the boost.
I may also replace the boost solenoid and start fresh with a factory set up. I am also contemplating buying a Nanocom but will hold off until I'm sure I am keeping this beast.
More goodness, it has drilled/slotted rotors and greenstuff pads all quite new!

ummmm MAF and MAP sensors? interesting to say the least... must be a L/R thing

[Marco Polo]

This always happens! I thought I did a pretty thorough job of checking this wagon out. There was no wet smell or any evidence of moisture anywhere in the truck and it lived outside in Taranaki so I thought sweet, it must be watertight... So the first rain we have after I get it home proves me wrong!! Passenger footwell full of water...
It's been leaking for ages too by the look of it. There is a lot of scabby rust under the carpet. Fortunately it isn't deep enough to cause holes. It did mean pissing around removing bits of interior and then wire brushing for hours. I am going to brush CRC rust converter into the remaining surface rust and paint with rust kill.

The source of the leak was the heater air intake. It has a miserable foam gasket which looks useless at the best of times but is even less effective when the plastic has bowed and the gasket isn't touching!

Another lol Land Rover design feature is the lowest part of the trough under the windscreen is NOT the drain point..

[derk]

there will be plenty more things to fix, keep your tool kit handy mate

[zukmeista]

there will be plenty more things to fix, keep your tool kit handy mate

Because remember people, only landrovers develop problems that need fixing, Toyotas don't need to be touched with a spanner EVER!!!!

[Marco Polo]

there will be plenty more things to fix, keep your tool kit handy mate

Call me a masochist but that's the type of vehicle I prefer. Had a Mitsi before. Never broke down....boring

[Cameron]

bugger!
I chased a leak around my pajero for a couple of years. turned out it had a hidden rust hole under the windscreen trim

[noexitroad]

Because remember people, only landrovers develop problems that need fixing, Toyotas don't need to be touched with a spanner EVER!!!!




Just some chicken mesh and 20 kg's of bog....

[Marco Polo]

I have taken it for a test drive with a new MAF fitted. Still epically slow off the mark. Anyone in Taranaki with a Hawkeye or Nanocom? I'm wondering if I have a code pending for injectors or something because at steady 1600rpm the engine rocks quite a bit (intermittent miss perhaps) P.O said the injector loom has been done but I think that's B.S there was a little oil in the red plug on the ECU.

[Big]

there was a little oil in the red plug on the ECU.

That is a normall fail for those.. it'll drip on the electrics and bugger them.. Best you check that if it has infact been done.. otherwise SELL it.. you safe yaself a LOT of headaches..

[Marco Polo]

otherwise SELL it.. you safe yaself a LOT of headaches..

Where's the fun in that?? And buy what...a TOYOTA? (shivers)

Besides, I never sell a vehicle that I'm not happy with. Can't bear to make it someone else's problem.

I have looked inside the ECU and there is no oil in there. I've cleaned the plug at both ends and will monitor. Next time I buy some parts I'll get a new injector loom for it. They're not that dear. While I'm at it I might replace the boost control solenoid too and have it running factory.

I did rig up a boost gauge and I've been fiddling with the wastegate. Have gone from 13 to 18psi still shy of boost cut but it has helped. Still a dead spot though.

[BadCo]

Have you got a EGT gauge on there when messing with the boost?

Good on you for keeping on with the Landy. I've only had my 110 for 6 months and I'm loving working on it!

[Marco Polo]

Have you got a EGT gauge on there when messing with the boost?

Good on you for keeping on with the Landy. I've only had my 110 for 6 months and I'm loving working on it!

No egt, but stock maximum boost is 130kpa which is 19psi so it should be safe enough.

[Big]

otherwise SELL it.. you safe yaself a LOT of headaches..

Where's the fun in that?? And buy what...a TOYOTA? (shivers)

Besides, I never sell a vehicle that I'm not happy with. Can't bear to make it someone else's problem.

I have looked inside the ECU and there is no oil in there. I've cleaned the plug at both ends and will monitor. Next time I buy some parts I'll get a new injector loom for it. They're not that dear. While I'm at it I might replace the boost control solenoid too and have it running factory.

I did rig up a boost gauge and I've been fiddling with the wastegate. Have gone from 13 to 18psi still shy of boost cut but it has helped. Still a dead spot though.

lol you have been warned.. can't say I didn't try.. good luck

[edwinkhiah]

Hi there mate. I am from Malaysia and just like you I own a Yr 2000 TD5. I experienced the same problem of ' misfiring ' at 1600 to 2000 rpm. Found some oil at the red socket plug into the ECU. Did some asking around my Landy friends and was told to open up the top cover to clean the socket points plug into the injectors. After, cleaning both ends, Ecu side & injectors side.....problem resolved. It seems this is a common problem with the Yr 2000 TD5. You may try and see if it works on your Landy. Good luck and happy landying. Besides some minor-minor issues, this is one of the best 4WD I have owned.

[muddymatt1973]

otherwise SELL it.. you safe yaself a LOT of headaches..

Where's the fun in that?? And buy what...a TOYOTA? (shivers)

Besides, I never sell a vehicle that I'm not happy with. Can't bear to make it someone else's problem.

I have looked inside the ECU and there is no oil in there. I've cleaned the plug at both ends and will monitor. Next time I buy some parts I'll get a new injector loom for it. They're not that dear. While I'm at it I might replace the boost control solenoid too and have it running factory.

I did rig up a boost gauge and I've been fiddling with the wastegate. Have gone from 13 to 18psi still shy of boost cut but it has helped. Still a dead spot though.

How's it going? Did you get the injector loom or have you looked elsewhere?

[Marco Polo]

Injector loom, boost control solenoid and a bunch of filters are currently on their way from UK. Increasing the boost has been a good move, but a flat spot and some roughness still exists when the engine is cold between 1500 and 2000 rpm. There is also resonant vibration under load between 1800 and 2300 rpm which gets better when at operating temperature.
I'm reasonably sure the new loom will help, I'll report back when it's fitted.

[muddymatt1973]

Yeah please keep me posted.
I just bought this.

Very happy at the moment.
I have just ordered a Nanocom so when I have that hooked up I can change the annoying auto-locking and alarm settings and see if all is well with MAF and boost etc.. I'll tweak the boost to a quarter turn off standard boost cut and see if that gives it a bit more go too.
Next will be a download and re-map

[Marco Polo]

Yeah please keep me posted.
I just bought this.

Very happy at the moment.
I have just ordered a Nanocom so when I have that hooked up I can change the annoying auto-locking and alarm settings and see if all is well with MAF and boost etc.. I'll tweak the boost to a quarter turn off standard boost cut and see if that gives it a bit more go too.
Next will be a download and re-map

Nice wagon. I do like the facelifted D2, I'm a bit jealous of the flashable ECU. RE the Nanocom, did you buy it direct from black box solutions website? How much did they sting you for freight? I have been eyeing up getting one. Seems cheapest to get it in AUD at the moment.

BTW, did you ditch the Pajero? I was close to buying one, but the heart won....(head is still calling me an idiot)

[muddymatt1973]

Thanks,
I had a facelift D2a before the Pajero but that one was a V8 and had tiny K's. It was a top spec minter with all the toys.
This one has done double the k's and has less toys but I'm stoked with it. (and it's got a winch)
Nanocom was bought direct from BBS and yes AUD was way cheaper for some reason! It's coming slow post but tracked, cost for freight was about $40/50 bucks I think. It's currently left Cyprus and not yet reached NZ

Yeah the later flashable ECU makes things a bit easier but there is still masses of stuff the Nanocom can do. I'll let you know how it goes when it arrives.

Sold the Pajero eventually a week after getting the Disco so a week with over $7K on the credit card was a relief to see it go..........
There was nothing wrong with it, drove fine, towed fine etc... just the whole family really missed the Disco so when this one came up I had to grab it.

Has your loom arrived yet? I read somewhere that you can just by-pass the boost actuator and run pressure hose direct from turbo output pipe to wastegate. Just like most "other" turbo diesels. Have you given that a try?
Where did you get your replacement MAF from too? Genuine or pattern/used? Some other forums report big differences in performance from different makes??

[Marco Polo]

I have the loom and a bunch of filters on the to do list tomorrow.
I bought a genuine Siemens MAF from UK. Island 4x4 was the cheapest.
I was running with the boost modulator bypassed and it went fine, but I ordered a new one with the loom and filters it was less than $40 and it goes even better now, it boosts to 17psi.
I got oil filter, rotor filter, fuel filter, boost modulator, and injector loom (Mahle filters, OEM for the rest) $160 including freight from LRdirect. Quite reasonable I think.

Do you miss the V8? I was quite keen but also keenly aware of their thirst.... The Td5 is an interesting motor, but fast it is not!

[muddymatt1973]

That's a pretty good deal.
the V8 was very different to drive, I got the center muffler replaced for a free flow one half the size so it sounded proper! All the power and torque is just off idle so you didn't need revs or much throttle. Totally different to the td5. Your right, they are sure not fast
hopefully mine will be better with some more boost and a remap.
does yours ever make ANY fuel smoke? Black? Mine doesn't at all.

[BadCo]

For those looking for remapping the td5 I recently read about a place called TD5 Inside.

Sounds like they can upgrade your 'puter to the later model flashable one.

http://www.td5inside.com

[Rotazuk]

That's a pretty good deal.
the V8 was very different to drive, I got the center muffler replaced for a free flow one half the size so it sounded proper! All the power and torque is just off idle so you didn't need revs or much throttle. Totally different to the td5. Your right, they are sure not fast
hopefully mine will be better with some more boost and a remap.
does yours ever make ANY fuel smoke? Black? Mine doesn't at all.

What rev's are you guys running at motorway speed on the flat . Also what rpm does the box typically change at under normal driving ? I hardly ever get mine over 2500 even if beating someone at the lights , 3000 max . I would be interested in what you get if you did the torque converter stall test , see the manual but in drive on the brake and bring on the gas . Off the top of my head it should be 2600 or 2700 I think . My worn out tc showed little resistance at 2500 and I backed off the gas at 3200 , the replacement modded tc is 2100 . Transforms the vehicle .

Mine is a 99 running a later ecu , just brought it of ebay for a spare while I played around with chipping the old ecu . This failed twice and got too busy to follow it up , should do thou as it could be a cheep way to sort your ecu . No matter what I have done I cant get it under 10L/100km , 10.2 or 10.3 consistently , grrr .

Cheers
Chris

[Marco Polo]

does yours ever make ANY fuel smoke? Black? Mine doesn't at all.

No, never seen even a puff.

What rev's are you guys running at motorway speed on the flat . Also what rpm does the box typically change at under normal driving ? I hardly ever get mine over 2500 even if beating someone at the lights , 3000 max . I would be interested in what you get if you did the torque converter stall test , see the manual but in drive on the brake and bring on the gas . Off the top of my head it should be 2600 or 2700 I think . My worn out tc showed little resistance at 2500 and I backed off the gas at 3200 , the replacement modded tc is 2100 . Transforms the vehicle .

Mine is a 99 running a later ecu , just brought it of ebay for a spare while I played around with chipping the old ecu . This failed twice and got too busy to follow it up , should do thou as it could be a cheep way to sort your ecu . No matter what I have done I cant get it under 10L/100km , 10.2 or 10.3 consistently , grrr .

Cheers
Chris

Mine behaves like a CVT! Under moderate acceleration the revs sit at around 2800 and the car goes faster. You just notice gear changes as a slight dip in rpm. Are you running an Ashcroft torque converter, or have you had one modified locally? I'd love to get it re mapped and HD torque converter, the factory tune is just too un-diesel like!

[muddymatt1973]

I'll do a stall test on mine when I get a chance.
when cold it takes a while to get top gear but I think that's normal.
change up points depend on right foot position but about 2500 ish sounds about right.
cruise at 100 k is a shade over 2000 rpm. that's torque converter locked up in 4th.

marco- did you get your cdl locked up and front shaft sorted?
I still need to get under mine and find out if I have the transfer box innards or not!
mine is a 04 model year according to chassis number but there is no way to be 100% sure without getting under and feeling for the nipple!
ummm that sounded way dodgy

[Marco Polo]

marco- did you get your cdl locked up and front shaft sorted?
I still need to get under mine and find out if I have the transfer box innards or not!
mine is a 04 model year according to chassis number but there is no way to be 100% sure without getting under and feeling for the nipple!
ummm that sounded way dodgy

I removed the shaft this morning. I recommend you check yours asap!! I had no unusual clunks or groans audible from the cabin. 1500km ago I was under there and couldn't detect any play. I should try and post a video, you would not believe how bad the one UJ is, I still can't believe it never exploded at 100k!! A rebuild kit has been despatched and should be here in a week or so.

Good news is I do have the locking Gubbins and the car is mobile! Matt, according to my research yours should almost certainly have the CDL internals. 2001-'02 are the ones that missed out. Don't quote me though this is Land Rover we are talking about

I also finished the service and replaced the injector harness and the 2000 rpm wobble in Park is gone. Will report back after I've driven to and from work about throttle response.