Just to confirm Caliper upgrade for LN107

[catalystracing]

Having searched a bit, I get some confusing info, so before I go ahead and part with hard earned cash I want to confirm the parts I need.
My front calipers need servicing, so now's the time to make changes.
I want to upgrade the front calipers on the IFS 107 to the KZN130 ones, they have bigger pistons, the 107 already has vented rotors.
I need to get the Master cylinder also as it is a 1" bore from KZN and the booster.
Wanting to do disc conversion later too, so will these goodies be enough to cope with discs in all corners.

Cheers

[Checkerhead]

Short answer: yes, probably.

Long answer, depends what calipers you end up using on the back (and a bunch of other stuff). Theoretically you will want a different residual pressure for the disc vs the drums, but these just screw out of the master cylinder. I used an ln61 surf master cylinder and calipers (same as what you already have I believe) on the front of my lux with Nissan bluebird calipers for the rear disc. Never had any of the long pedal throw issues people talk about and they passed the cert brake test easy (on 35 simex), but it was more good luck than good planning. I'm no expert.

If your up for it, there is a brilliant write up on Pirate about brakes and how to successfully mix and match them. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/

[catalystracing]

That is a great write up, cheers.
What rotors did you use with the bluebird calipers, did they take much to hook up with the handbrake.

[derk]

don't go expecting a major increase in braking going from a 107 to 130 calliper, you'd get better bang for your buck upgrading to a dual diaphragm 80 series booster or a remote vh44 booster to increase the clamping pressure

[Checkerhead]

The blue bird callipers did have a cable operated hand brake on them, but I used a transmission handbrake (from trail gear maybe? can't remember).

I just used the standard non-vented hilux discs on the rear. You have to turn down the flange on the axle so the disc will fit over but its only about 4mm from memory. Still leave heaps of meat around the studs. Think it's pretty common to use these discs, the mr2 calliper set up usually uses them.

As Derk says, not sure you will get a big gain. The bigger piston callipers alone might help (increase in clamping pressure) but the bigger master cylinder may negate this (because it brings your master/slave ratio back)

don't go expecting a major increase in braking going from a 107 to 130 calliper, you'd get better bang for your buck upgrading to a dual diaphragm 80 series booster or a remote vh44 booster to increase the clamping pressure

Derk, can you tell me a little more about this vh44 remote booster? Might help on my current project.

What is this off? (did you mean vh45?) how does the remote side of it work? like what connect to the brake pedal?

[derk]

remote brake boosters made by PBR in aussie they used to stick them on old holdens and pommy cars, vh44 is the smaller booster and vh40 is the bigger booster, being remote you can mount them anywhere you've got some spare room and get up to 4x line pressure up to around 1500-1600 psi, you run them in series with the existing booster, they're a common addition to get trucks with big tyres to pass the lvvta brake test

[Checkerhead]

Thanks. Just had a bit of a google. makes sense now.

[derk]

vh44's good for an offroad truck, vh40's good for a road truck but no so good offroad the brake pedals too sensitive you lock the brakes up too easily

[catalystracing]

don't go expecting a major increase in braking going from a 107 to 130 calliper, you'd get better bang for your buck upgrading to a dual diaphragm 80 series booster or a remote vh44 booster to increase the clamping pressure

That could be the go, would you recommend the 80 series M/C also ??

[derk]

only need a bigger bore m/c if you change callipers around or put rear discs on and need more fluid displacement, heaps of stuff on the net to google and keep you busy for a few nights got to make sure you get the pushrod the right length if you switch boosters

[catalystracing]

only need a bigger bore m/c if you change callipers around or put rear discs on and need more fluid displacement, heaps of stuff on the net to google and keep you busy for a few nights got to make sure you get the pushrod the right length if you switch boosters

Cheers,
Ill do caliper swap now, and get the other goodies ready for a later date, when discs go on the back.
Thanks for your time and input.
Paul.