engine wont start

jumper · Post by **jumper** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 4:45 pm

i have installed a pertronix ignitor and a msd coil. engine backfired on the starter so i left it last night and tried it today nothing just the starter turning engine over. went back to the points setup still wont work. spark at the plugs and dizzy end of ht cable
what do i need to check?

mud_slinger · Post by **mud_slinger** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 5:20 pm

check to see if it has fuel

jumper · Post by **jumper** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 5:22 pm

carb squirts fuel.

mud_slinger · Post by **mud_slinger** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 5:24 pm

if it gettin fuel the thing your missin is ignition

Post by **mike** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 5:33 pm

timing? perhaps you have it one roation out on the crank, if its backfiring on the dizzy. I know when doing the rover i got it one rotation of the crank out after the dizzy lifted. so i had to check if the No.1 cylinder was at TDC and then the timing marks were correct for me to slot the dizzy in.

Mike

Post by **Mark** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 6:49 pm

Have you got a timing light? I have one if you want to borrow it.

Cloggy_NZ · Post by **Cloggy_NZ** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:26 pm

Aye, if there is spark and fuel then 90% of the time it will run provided the spark arrives at the right time.
Is there any hint of firing at all? Do any of the exhaust header pipes get warm while cranking?
Did you remove the dizzy to fit the igniter and then the points?
If so then my guess is you have the timing 180 degrees out. The sure fire way to check easily and visually is to pull the rocker cover off exposing the rockers on No1 cylinder. These should both be sitting level when the distributor rotor is pointing to the No1 sparkplug wire. At the same time the pointer on the crank should be just before TDC. If you have the ignition 180 degrees out the intake valve will be open and the pointer on the crank will also point to just before TDC.
If this is the case pull the dizzy out, turn the rotor half a turn and drop it back in.

DieselBoy · Post by **DieselBoy** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:43 pm

Or just try it, won't hurt if its not running like you said

jumper · Post by **jumper** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:39 pm

on monday morning Cloggynz and glen came round and had a go at starting the truck but it would not go the problem was deemed to be after the ht cable.
after they had gone go aotea block i ended up getting a new rotor, dizzy cap and battery. it now runs for 3-4 seconds should just be the timing that needs sorting but the battery ran out of juice and is on charge.

thanks cloggy and glen

SMOKEY · Post by **SMOKEY** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:13 pm

You say it runs for 3-4 seconds, is it only running while the key is in the start position ? , If so try holding the key in the start position for 10 seconds and see if it will run for 10 seconds. If it doe's it sounds like you have a Ballist Resistor problem, your old system may have had an internal coil resistor or an external in line resistor. Try a jumper lead from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive wire of your Ignitor system, this will give it a straight 12v feed just remember to stop your motor you will have to disconect this wire.
I have just finished fitting an Ignitor system to my 3F toyota and did away with the ballist resistor. This may be right off line but worth a try.

GOD LOVES A TRIER,

FITZY.

jumper · Post by **jumper** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 9:23 pm

it turns out that the black wire from the ignitor had chafed and must have been grounding out

thanks again cloggy

Cloggy_NZ · Post by **Cloggy_NZ** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 9:26 pm

So have you got it running now on the electronic ignition?