Blowen 87 series Landcruiser

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Good work Keri, you are building quite a machine but I don't really think it will ever be finished, nothing ever is.

starting to wonder that myself... But I must say if I hadn't been looking for the noise I had the transfer box could have had a spectacular explosion of the sorts.. when I dumped the oil it was like silver paste.. then I thought holy cow.. something not right here.. so glad I got it when I did..

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Well all things are all fixed..New second xfer case.. hope it holds up.. Bolts all loctited into place So now all it leaves is a good thrash..somewhere.. More later tata

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Update,, day is shit today so puled the top off to make a dedicated MAP feed, I placed it right next to the temp sensor plug as I couldn't get it any closer to the intakes of the cylinders.. here's a pic

So hope that helps with the flat spot I have.. I also have changed the degs of timing at idle to 15 to start with.. Might change it more but I'll see how it pulls of the batt.. I did speak with my tuner and he said it was set low because of a little knock when it was loaded up.. and I said well it's not like I live in that rev range and typically there is no load as the revs are way past that point anyway.. so he suggested take to 20 degs.. and I was like woa.. we'll just up at a little at a time..lol.. we'll see how it goes now as I have learned these are the little things that plague the lem 5.. but TBH it's almost so small a detail it was worth the cost.. My total cost to put the blower on is around the 2k mark so real happy.. But don't take into consideration my hours spent on it.. then I have spent shit loads..lol
More later as I get things better

[Big]

Forgot to mention.. after rebuilding my xfer box.. and placing a good quality synthetic oil and the thrust washers were starting to break down.. particles after I dropped the oil.. getting frustrated as this is the 2-3rd time this is happening.. so spent a LOT of time speaking to oil guru's and the census is that the GL5 properties in the newer oils is the problem.. so we got some GL4 80-90 and have used that so I'll take it for another thrash and drop the oil to check whats going on..again..
Later

[meatc]

Funny you mention about oil. I ran nice synthetic stuff in my CA18 in my W/C zuk. Developed a bottom end rattle. Did a heap of net surfing (boy racers came in handy for once ) and found that the CA motor doesn't like modern oil. Motor was designed in the late 80s and used late 80s oil. Put crappy old mineral oil in it and it ran better, cooler and hadn't ( till a little stuck incident ) worn the new bottom end bearings. hydraulic tappets were quieter to.

Guess moral for you and me both is - use oil from the area the vehicle came from, don't try to be nice by using flash new generation stuff.

[Big]

Funny you mention about oil. I ran nice synthetic stuff in my CA18 in my W/C zuk. Developed a bottom end rattle. Did a heap of net surfing (boy racers came in handy for once ) and found that the CA motor doesn't like modern oil. Motor was designed in the late 80s and used late 80s oil. Put crappy old mineral oil in it and it ran better, cooler and hadn't ( till a little stuck incident ) worn the new bottom end bearings. hydraulic tappets were quieter to.

Guess moral for you and me both is - use oil from the area the vehicle came from, don't try to be nice by using flash new generation stuff.

EXACTLY.. well said..

[Mehrts]

Typically GL5 oils have additives that basically eat soft metals like brass which is what syncros and other bits and bobs are made out of.

Unless the box was designed to take more modern GL5 oils, then it is best to stick with "older" oils that are GL4 rated as stated previously. This will save you grief with bits being eaten away!

Sometimes the newest, flashest stuff is not always best for what your application.

[Big]

Well been tweaking things as you do and yet to go for a skid somewhere to try it out.. But I replaced the front wheel bearings AGAIN about a month or so ago and I remember someone saying drill and tap a grease nipple or access so one can be screwed in on the front hub assembly.. So it's a shitty day again so thought i'd pull it to check to see how the new bearing was going.. well it had water in there yet again.. so I decided to look at the mod and try it..
After cleaning the water grease and repacking the bearing.. thankfully it was ok and no rust had set in.. I drilled a hole into the hub and tapped the top with M6 1.0 pitch bolt size.. it's a common as muck thread pitch and have lots of bolts that will do.. cut off the head.. slotted the shaft and hey presto.. a bung

and

assembled the hub and bolted the calliper on to make sure it was ok

Then I though well better see how it goes when filling it, I filled it until it started to come out around the bearing race.. works a treat so on went the flange.. and I filled it until grease started to come out around the cv shaft and left it at that.. cleaned off all the grease that came out and i'll leave the dust cap off to see how much grease does come out so I'm not pressuring anything inside.. then when I think it's ok i'll pop the dust cap on.. job done
Still have drivers side to do but it will get the same treatment..
Later

[Big]

Well completed the drivers side.. and went for a spin.. seems to work as I was up to mid door water and no water in the bearings.. happy chappy..
Also the big flat spot has been resolved and responds accordingly.. Now just need a thrash in a bog etc to make sure things are working for what it was built for.. Guess we'll have to wait for that one..
So now the deck is looking like it'll get the chop to lift it..
I guess more later ..

[Big]

Dropped the tranny pants again as I just felt that the shifting was just a little too harsh.. so popped off the valve body again.. swapped over the plates that needed modding and redrilled the wholes slightly smaller..
Silicon is going off so will report how it goes later today..
The oil is still mint so real happy with the tranny as a whole..
later

[Big]

Well small update.. I need to use a 3"exhaust as I have had an email from one who I would say would almost be an expert.. and seeing as the last exhaust I put in was only $50 I'm not too fazed.. only the hours that went into getting it in was the hassle.. so I'll be looking for some 3"bends and the likes. + muffler to go with it..
I'll have a heap of 2.5"bends and a muffler for sale if someone is keen.. bugger all use and If they want I can cut it up and make it all sweet for sending..
Spent 4 hrs getting 1 bolt in over the xmas new year period no room and could only turn a ring spanner 1/4 a turn.. + the hole wasn't ligned up 100% so took a bit to get it in..
Tranny lots better and Im thinking I might put it back.. the way it was.. I'll wait till exhaust is done.. No pictures so ya outter luck..
Being New Years eve.. Happy New Year everyone and be safe..
Later tata

[Big]

well small update.. nothing much really but have changed to 3"exhaust. and it sounds mean got a few tid bits to finish which is going to happen over the next few weeks..

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Well thought I better update things here.. Not a lot really bar gathering bits and bobs for you know.. making it better..
ANYWAY.. exciting parcel arrived today thanks to Trundle

And I thought I better post a pic of some go fast bits

Going to keep the boost at 9 psi at WOT and we will put more timing into it and add water/meth to say.. give us some control and more POWA..
Also going to change ring and pinions to most likely 4.88'z for the road manners and economy side of things not likely but you know.. gotta say something
Had a yak with my tuner and he sayin Im on the right track to being a monster ( over a lot of nm's of torque.. - we'll see when the time comes..)
Added a couple of temp controllers to monitor temps of trans ( cool side) and radiator side ( again cool side) just to make sure things are doing as I expect them too..
Once r & p's get here then I'll put the goodness into it and see how she blows.. should get a smile or too happening..
Just the little things now.. then cert and thrash

That's it

[Big]

Well. been chipping away at trying to get the current rules up to date.. which all I have to do is a 6th point cage and bar for the 4 point seat belts + kill switch.. Haven't done the bar for the belts( hopefully this weekend) or the kill switch But I have been chipping away at the rollcage.. what a bloody nightmare .. I take my hat off to people who do this all the time.. Just trying to get things looking right is a major let alone trying to achieve a nice look etc..
I still have to add 2 very small bars to strengthen up the bars along the bonnet line, but otherwise Im reasonably happy with the out come.. Oh and I need to re-bracket the snorkel so it'll fit(again)
Pipes are 48 od med wall(3.5mm- I think) main bars with 35mm steam pipe( seamless) on the roof cross braces.. It's a way off the cab for wobble factor and to also allow for lights and washing pipes for windscreen etc. it'll all fall into place. Added about 45kg to the truck Anyone got any 4.88 r&p'z floating around to help move it quik?
Anyway pics says a 1000 words.. any feedback welcomed..


I'll add bar and kill switch setup when I get there.

[ChurchurDan]

Looks good. Does it fit back out the garage door?

[Big]

Looks good. Does it fit back out the garage door?

yip as it does with just the rear bar.. but only just and with the 31's nothing else.

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Well bit of an update.. not a lot really but just tidying up some loose ends..
I have lowered the coil spring perch's, taken out some of the packers that gave me lift and that being done has made the arse too low
Installed bump stops just need finalise things there.
Adjusted the rear so now sits nice and level or even.. Just need to check pan hards to make sure we are within specs of the chassis. and make changes to suit..
Anyway a few pics for you pic hoares
Spring perch cut off showing factory position

Welded on and primed to new position

Had to cut the bumpstop cone down to make it work for the new bumpstop

Some bling

Made up a spring extension for the rear coils but didn't take any pics.. so use your imagination it works
Next thing really is wait for ring and pinions then I'll setup the water injection then off to dyno..
Stay tuned
Ta K

[Big]

Well bit of an update,
Nothing other than maintenance .. Took it for a thrash couple weeks back and all the front idlers were buggered after it..
Stripped down the front axle to gusset and brace.. kingpin bearing buggered..
Will be checking the wheel bearings tomorrow..so will keep you all posted..as im hoping they are sweet as bro..

more later

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Well after taking the front to bits.. and finding out the kingpins are buggered.. Good news is the wheel bearings are sweet as.. after the mod I did that I think mudluva suggested.. works real good.. Now to only keep water out of the knuckle it self.. Im thinking of low positive air fed to the knuckle..? 0r some other way..??? Anyone care to share..?
anyway here is the front knuckle gusseted just need to brace the axle now..

and

Also I cleaned up all the bits from the knuckle and gave them some lipstick to try to keep it front rusting as there was a wee bit on everything..

Now RIng and pinions going to get some loving this week too as we have a thrash organised in ALex.. with the club there so want to give them howz ya father other there.. Bit of competition between clubs..lol Ill get some pics when that happens later this week..

Cheers K

[suzolla]

Hi Kerry,
Have got some Longfield Wipers for the 80 Series you could try, they are basically a plastic ring.
Let me know if interested.
Cheers
Tim

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Had a google and could be a goer.. Just the wipers ? will pm you..ta

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Small update,, New ring and pinions are installed with fresh oils and bearings.. total rebuild for front end, even kingpins etc.. Not too happy as it was only done a year or so ago.. But it has had a good ole thrashing so I guess it just put it down to maintenance..
Next thing will be do I install the water meth kit before I head back to dyno ? or just run it as is.. I'll ask the dyno guy see what they reckon.. otherwise we good to go for a thrash soon..
Will post up numbers after dyno etc.. or maybe I wont.. see how I feel..
Pictures.. well there aint any..

Tata

[Big]

Well small update.. ring and pinions in and are awesome.. maybe could have gone for 5.2's but hey these will do.. LSD working great but for how long..fk knows.. Just been putting harness's in,Fixed dodgy seat belts.. and currently working on drive shaft hoop.. there is no room so coming up with something funky.. I just hope it ok for cert.. Then only thing to do is light for number plate . then we sweet for cert.

Have put in all my paperwork to Peter Watson , so compliance can decide on how it can be cert'd.. still waiting on a decision.. gov wheels turn fking slow.. but looking like a modded landcruiser as it'll be too hard for them to decide any other path so we'll see.. should have an answer Monday.. From there off for cert. rego warrant and thrash Will take a couple pics of the hoop when it done.. otherwise that's it..
Oh looks like I got a 80 series cruiser too.. pickup next week.. Will let you all know what when I get it..

[Big]

Bout time for an update.. Well truck is all but ready for cert.. just need some captive nuts for the drive shaft hoop and the number plate holder and light made up.
Good news for the cert process is they are going to treat it as a heavily modified truck which means I can get it cert'd with the chassis under it.. Booya
On another note.. my new truck 80 series is in the motions of a few little tid bits..Not a lot as most have been done.. Just needs a 3" exhaust and pump tweak, along with up the boost to 13-14psi and it'll be a hum dinger..But for warnings and keeping things under control I installed a temp sensor onto the cold ( return line) of the transmission after the added cooler..To make sure it's not going to get too hot while towing my beast..
Here is a pic of the sensor bare but I did cover it with silicon to help hold it and to keep temps just for the pipe

and the gauge

Have also just been down to Borland saddle track and up to percy's saddle and was a good test to monitor the trans.. Very happy as a stand alone truck.. ranged from 38 degs to 74 degs going slow and up low gears . Once I have a 3"exhaust then i'll up the anti just a tid bit..

[suzolla]

Hi Keri,
I am a bit baffled why you have put it in the return cold side, as it wont tell you how hot your trans is, particularly if the oil flow is a little bit restricted it will seem even colder, this is unless you already have one on the trans out pipe and the 2 of them can then be compared to tell you how well the cooler is working. Also with it strapped on it will always read a bit cooler than the oil even if it has silicon around it, would be better to have it in the oil flow.
Cheers
Tim

[Big]

yea true to the having it in oil but I can't do that.. or at least it would be harder to arrange.. btw the sensors are very sensitive so figure strapped along side will be ok( I can live with a couple degs difference because of the metal pipe)
I figure that the hot side will be hot but as the oil goes through the system to return , if it is getting hot (heat soak ?)on the return and it is not able to cope cooling it then it'll start to get very hot on return which will tell me to back off a bit, I have thought of putting another one on the hot side to compare apples with apples.. but I also figure that the cold side is more important then the hot(because cold side is most important for the life of the trans) as hot will always be hot.. where as the cold side will fluctuate quite a lot depending on the stress going on.. On the race truck I have a thermostat that operates the fan on the hot side.. opens and close between 65-82 I think and I have a sensor on the cold side of that also( also on the return radiator).. and it works a treat.. but with the 80 I don't have a electric fan( although I could put one on if I made more room) which may happen as I have a probe that could go on the hot side within the fins of the cooler I have which could work. Have to hook up the truck and trailer and go for a fat up the crown range.. best stress testing area anywhere in the country i would assume as it is relentless.. and if it doesn't get super hot there then I know it'll handle anywhere else..lol Got the gauges and sensors from aliexpress for cheap as

[Grayham]

Hi just been look at your truck what a mean machine .Hey how did your ground anchor work what size metal did you use.

[churchill]

Hi Keri,
I am a bit baffled why you have put it in the return cold side, as it wont tell you how hot your trans is, particularly if the oil flow is a little bit restricted it will seem even colder, this is unless you already have one on the trans out pipe and the 2 of them can then be compared to tell you how well the cooler is working. Also with it strapped on it will always read a bit cooler than the oil even if it has silicon around it, would be better to have it in the oil flow.
Cheers
Tim

Yeah this makes sense, oil gets damaged over a certain temp and this is what you want to monitor. If it's on the cold side you'll just be seeing cooled dead trans fluid. Thats why coolant temp is measured on the hot side of the radiator!

[Big]

Hi just been look at your truck what a mean machine .Hey how did your ground anchor work what size metal did you use.

Thanks, been a long road and process.. it's still not finished..lol as for the ground anchor.. copied Bruce Hughes design and I bent it so upped the box section size but kept the design.. i'll have to measure it to let ya know..

Hi Keri,
I am a bit baffled why you have put it in the return cold side, as it wont tell you how hot your trans is, particularly if the oil flow is a little bit restricted it will seem even colder, this is unless you already have one on the trans out pipe and the 2 of them can then be compared to tell you how well the cooler is working. Also with it strapped on it will always read a bit cooler than the oil even if it has silicon around it, would be better to have it in the oil flow.
Cheers
Tim

Yeah this makes sense, oil gets damaged over a certain temp and this is what you want to monitor. If it's on the cold side you'll just be seeing cooled dead trans fluid. Thats why coolant temp is measured on the hot side of the radiator!

Looks like I might have to shift my sensor.. easy done but reason I left it there was the sensor already on the hot side is working the fan and comes on at the right temp setting ( 82-85 ON 65 degs OFF from memory) and when that's on I have about 5-10 degs float ?? and If I see that the cooler is not keeping up with demand then I can see that directly from the return side on the cooler.. I guess its a same same but different way of monitoring things.. If it's is getting hot.. I will be able to see this on the return as the cooler wont be able to cope with the demand.. if im monitoring the hot side.. I can't tell how the cooler is going.. unless I get another sensor and monitor that as well.. .. I'll see how it goes..

TAta

[Big]

Well update time,

Seeing as im committing to events this year, I have to get the truck to a certain level to play with the big boyz.. So I have started the ball rolling with an isolator relay ( continuous ) with shut off.. anyway rated for loads and just means when the switch is off, Everything is off.. Also have a 80 amp fuse inline battery to alternator as I cannot just turn it off when under any sort of load as it'll;l fk the alternator.. Only other positive feed direct to battery is the feed for the starter motor ( I could put this on the relay but don't think it would matter)

and

Once I got that done thought I'd take it for a spin again.. ( I know.. ) andway was going good.. until I was like.. mmm what was that..

so I need fix that now too.. can't have been very good birdshit.. so will redo it.. better.. Only other thing left to do is drop box's from Tim, and tail light for number plate.. then captive nuts for driveshaft hoop and all DONE
Oh Nice new battery thanks to TIM.. thanks for that
Will get a few pics tomorrow after drop box's etc done..

LATER K