which is a better setup?

mudbug · Post by **mudbug** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 3:12 pm

from experience which one of these is the best? iv got both made sitting in the shed but i just need to decide which one to go for. i want it road legal itl be on my daily driver.

any other ideas or advice is appreciated aswell

cheers

The WEHI · Post by **The WEHI** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 3:26 pm

properly built double triangulated hands down,

mudbug · Post by **mudbug** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 3:29 pm

these are real pics of what iv got, that chassis is my jig basically im making it all to suit that then going to swap onto my ute.

mudbug · Post by **mudbug** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 3:34 pm

i was also going to ditch the springs for coilovers, is that a good idea or should i just stick to those seperate spring and shocks

Team Tonka · Post by **Team Tonka** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 4:04 pm

I'd second WEHI. Separate springs and shocks are cheaper and prob more reliable than coilovers. As a starting point, at ride height, have top arms horizontal and bottom arms pointing to top of front wheel or slightly lower. Chassis mounts with a couple of hole options to alter angle of top arms is a good way to fine tune it. Make sure it flexes without fouling anything. Be sure on this one as its deceiving how things move sometimes.

The WEHI · Post by **The WEHI** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 4:06 pm

Ive also ditched my spring's and going coil overs but i also ditched my triangulated rear when i changed rear diffs i think coilover are the way off the future much more tunable and plush

mudbug · Post by **mudbug** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 1:57 am

what did you change your triangulated for? iv got a surf diff also with all the factory mounts like the other option in the drawing i gave

The WEHI · Post by **The WEHI** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 8:47 am

mines a 80 series rear using the factory upper mounts with cutom lower mounts

imsohi · Post by **imsohi** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 8:10 am

The biggest advantage of the first pic is you won't have to run a panhard rod as if setup correctly you won't get sideways movement. The second drawing will if the lower arms are 90 deg to the housing.

suzolla · Post by **suzolla** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:11 am

Both set ups do not need a panard even if the bottom arms are at 90 deg, the top arms form a triangle to stop sideways movement.
The first pic should give you less bump steer.
Cheers
Tim

Checkerhead · Post by **Checkerhead** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:11 am

Yeah, what Suzolla said.

Single and double triangulation do not require a panhard. A general recommendation is a minimum of 40 degrees of separation between the upper links.

The advantage of double triangulation vs single (ie left pic vs right) is that your roll axis will change less as the suspension cycles. Also as Suzolla said, you will get less bump steer during articulation. All of this means less change in understeer/oversteer characteristics as your suspension cycles (pretty important coming into/out of a corner)

I guess an important thing to remember is that you probably don't need to build "the perfect four link" you just need to build "the best that you can fit", cause even that should be better than what ever you replace.

I'm building one at the moment. It will sit somewhere between your two pictures.

edit. I should add that the above info is all what I understand from having done a lot of reading, not from personal experience.

mudbug · Post by **mudbug** » Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:55 am

ok cool. my thinking is the other diff i have has all the spring and shock mounts, brake lines and everything already on it from factory. iv already got the arms made as you can see and it would be alot less hassle and cutting and welding mounting it into the ute like that. ill throw it together this weekend and see how it goes

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