Iv just finished fine tuning my 1kz-t with a manual pump I built, also it's in a ln61 cut down surf.
I will start from the start I guess, first I wanted to be able to carry my bikes around so cut the fiberglass back canopy down and bolted it down with the rear window in, I welded a piece of old bonnet in underneath in to fill the gap and a bit of 50X50 box section I had around.
It had it's origonal 2l-t, with a small water usage they all seem to have, till it cooked up a storm one day, then I wacked my spare 2l in it to keep it on the road while I got all the parts ready to fit a 1kz.
I got a 1kz cheap, so got a welded bell housing 1kz to g52 off trademe, clutch and flywheel etc also all for cheap..
I got brave one day and pulled the 2L out and ground the mounts off the chassis. Next day cleaned the plates the engine mounts bolt to and welded 50x50x6mm box section to the back.
Then i put the bell housing on the gbox and bolted the 1kz to it, bolted the mounts I made to the engine and marked how to grind it to lower the engine to the right height and width (so the box section welds to the top and inside of chassis rails) it sat in there by itself when finished.
So I tacked them to the chassis pulled the engine out and welded it up nice and solid.
For the injector pump I tried the 2l-t one (on the shed floor) it ran so decided to try it with this to start with
When I got the engine in and got it driving it ran but was gutless as crap and only would rev to about 3000rpm.
I looked around at the wreckers for a pump with numbers VE 4/11f the 11 being the plunger size, 2l-t early version is 8mm.
I wanted a 12mm but no one had any (you can buy the head rotors from http://www.vepump.com/CZZ.htm ) .
I decided not to but may next time.
The pump I found was a Isuzu bighorn one dunno if it was a 3.1 or 2.8 one, possibly are the same anyway? It was the one with 3 bolt holes to mount it so I pulled the square part off the back, swapped it, the plunger, shim, springs, and the cam plate (also the rollers coz they looked less worn).
Putting them back together is all about mounting the pump housing in the vice at the right angle, a bit of grease can help hold springs in.
That's probably the hard part most people think is specialist but I had mine apart about 10 times trying different cams plates etc.
When I first put it in I had to re adjust the fuel screw but was hard to get rid of smoke so pulled the afc diafram out and ground the top off the thread on the fuel pin down to nut height and soldered a 4mm nut to the top cover so I could adjust the height it sat, also I turned it around to the steepest slope on the fuel pin so it would lean it out further when there was no boost.
This stopped it smoking and I continued adjusting the fuel screw til I thought it was roughly standard 1kz-te power.
For the timing I set it just back from where it makes funny rattles when deaccelerating, this seems best for low rev power and torque.
The exhaust was the other trick bit in my build (only coz the 1st engine was out of a hiace) I had to make a dump pipe so made a custom 3inch dump pipe straight from the turbo about 1.2m long, then down to 2.5inch with a 2.5inch coby and sounds ok/ slightly noisy, the original exhaust was going to be to small so got a whole new system now.
Everything else fitted pretty sweet, power steering lines threaded straight into the 1kz pump, had to modify bottom radiator outlet and make a mount for throttle quadrent.
After all this I pulled off the alloy bulbars and fitted a 8500lb electric winch with in cab control and custom winch mount/bulbar from a E2500 mazda van.
Checked and replaced cv's replaced all balljoints idler arm etc. Now she's mint cruises 120 all day long much better than a 2L HAHAHA
Happy building!
Today I tried retarding the pump slightly as it had some torque viabrations at low revs under 2k and would start dropping back on boost at over 3k.
It made it smoother under 2k and slightly better power over 3k but I figure it's just limited by how much air it can flow.
