Ln106 Singlecab Project

[FKDLUX]

I usually work on the 75% of lower link equasion, however the Hilux I've just done the rear on only has 35mm difference. Pinion doesnt change angle at all, even when way past the travel the coilovers allow.
I don't see any real need to get too hung up on those calculators, I just use them as a basic guideline.

Cheers Tom, Im always seconding guessing whether what im doing is the right way. I dont know how many times iv put it together, then thought of a better way then pulled it apart and started over End of the day if the top links length is its downfall there is plenty of room to shorten it and build a new mount of the side of the chassis but i will give how it is at the moment a go.

With that hilux you talk about, is the front end going to get linked also? What length are the coilovers? Looks pretty flash.

Cheers Stephen

[rokhound]

Just as long as you are happy with the background and study you have done before you get major dollars and time invested.
Not up to me to judge or comment, as long as you are happy with what you have done.

Is it prehaps you have concerns about the top link being the same length as the lowers? I know there are basic guidlines to follow for linked suspension, long flat links, good amouts of seperation at the axle end, links the angle out toward the axle from the chassis to reduce axle steer under articulation. Low anti squat for front ends I think 80 to 120%, and generally top links are 75% of lowers. I set the truck up with the idea the links would be the same length so one spare was needed. As I cycled the suspension what this means for the pinion angle is it doesnt change alot through the suspension cycle. Normally as the suspension cycles the pinion angle would face back up toward the gearbox? So if the pinion angle doesnt change alot, neither will the castor but what im asking is how will it affect the handling characteristics when driving?

Cheers Stephen

The only concern I had was the lower link mounting at the axle end being above the centre line of the axle. Not even for the geometry so much as the extra stresses you are putting on the housing and tabs. Of course it may never be a problem, and the only way to find out is do it and see what happens.
I hear ya about fitting everything up, then cutting the whole lot off and starting again. (I think I did that 4 or more times with my front end, and that was just on this rebuild, the other truck was done 5 or more times as well. Guess I'm just a thick bastard )

[De-Ranged]

The link geometry is only part of the picture.... you can compensate with spring rate, pre-load, shock valving, track base and wheel base, sway bars bumps and limit straps and last but most definitly not least driving style

I'm with rok on the tab location but so long as the tab has a good (long) welds it should be sweet

Oh and for the books the lada has had the links on the front end done (re-done ) 3 times

[tomsoffroad]

Im not sure about having the lower link diff mounts above the axle centre line either. I apprciate (Spelling ? me thick ) that you have the tie rod in the way but it will add heaps of stress to it. Another option is to run a similar set up to the 60 series steering where the tie rod is in the front with the drag link bolted to the tie rod. Like this.................



This will allow you to bring the lower link diff mounts down below the axle centre

[tomsoffroad]

With that hilux you talk about, is the front end going to get linked also? What length are the coilovers? Looks pretty flash.

Yip Looking like a job for the new year.

[rokhound]

Im not sure about having the lower link diff mounts above the axle centre line either. I apprciate (Spelling ? me thick ) that you have the tie rod in the way but it will add heaps of stress to it. Another option is to run a similar set up to the 60 series steering where the tie rod is in the front with the drag link bolted to the tie rod. Like this.................



This will allow you to bring the lower link diff mounts down below the axle centre

Have you ever had an issue with slop in that set up Tom? My old 60 series had that (as it would with it being a factory thing), but there was lots of slack with ball joints rolling over etc before the steering actually started to work. It must be a major contributor to bump steer I reckon.

[tomsoffroad]

Have you ever had an issue with slop in that set up Tom? My old 60 series had that (as it would with it being a factory thing), but there was lots of slack with ball joints rolling over etc before the steering actually started to work. It must be a major contributor to bump steer I reckon.

Yeah I've noticed that too. I dont think its an issue tho as long as the adjustable ball joints are set correctly. Dont think it would cause bumpsteer tho, maybe death wobble if they were sloppy.

[COILY]

Awesome build! Look forward to seeing it progress. Was the Prado a 1KZ?

[Fakey]

Cool looking project ya got there, I have to agree with what others have said about your lower links being above the tie rod / axle centreline putting a lot of extra strain on everything. The thing that would concern me most is the amount of extra force applied to the single top link an it's mounting brackets.
Having the links above the centre line almost eliminates their ability to stop the axle rolling forward when it hits an obstacle, it will actually increase the forces applied to the top link , if that makes sense
You could make drop brackets so that the links sit below the tierod. That seems to be the norm on linked patrols an 80s this side of the Tasman anyway I've done a lot a thinking about how to link the front of my cruiser (gq diff) an that's prob how I'd do it

[FKDLUX]

Made some progress on the truck. In regard to the lower link placement being above the centreline, if the mounts
are built with the extra stresses in mind it shouldnt be a problem. After all the unimogs, volvos and if someone
had enough money for the marks adapters portal hub conversion, those axles and mounts are probably under
more stress than the my situation. Anyway some pics off the progress

Made some headway with mounting the steering box and beefing up the front rails of the chassis






Started work on modifying the 80series coil hats to suit the chassis rails. Have removed the shock mount
as it isnt going to suit what I have planned. Most probably make a shock hoop setup once the body is back on.



Made some progress on the mounts for the passenger links. The problem i had was once the pto was on the
side of the box, i couldnt remove the upper link bolt, so will have it remove through the chassis.

[FKDLUX]

For all those gurus out there, if my photos are sized in photbucket at 640 x 480, why are they up the shit when I have just posted them???

Cheers Stephen

[andrew007]

nice build steve. have you heard about richards accident?
cheers andy

[De-Ranged]

Like the chassis mount for the double

[Fakey]

Progress looks good so far, I like the chassis mount.
What's wrong with the pics they're fine as far as I can see

[FKDLUX]

nice build steve. have you heard about richards accident?
cheers andy

Hey Andy, I havent heard from Richard for a while, whats happened? Your truck going alright still?

[FKDLUX]

Been a couple of years so i should post some more. V8 housing is all trussed and assembled. Made a jig at work to hold it true while i welded it. New bearings and solid spacers for the diffs, front being a high pinion toyota e-locker 4.11 ratio, rear being a v6 surf diff with a detroit locker. Transfercase has Marks adapters gear set installed with earlier shift fork and 4wd selector shaft to replace the vacum assist 4wd. Forward reverse pto rebuilt and mounted with the output facing the rear. Have been taking photos throughout since we all love photos so will get around to posting them.

[FKDLUX]

So on the front housing I gusseted the balls with 16mm plate ( my profile gauge really helped out here), trussed the front of the housing with whats left of 75x100 box section and trussed up the 3rd link mount with 8mm plate








over engineered but its not going to fall off. The plate was welded inside and out to the housing and 3rd link mount then the box section truss went over it lol


all finished minus assembly and paint

[FKDLUX]

Next to do was assemble the housing. All new bearings, seals, new rotors, pads, cvs, rebuilt axles, rebuilt calipers, new brass bushes.


all parts involved for the rebuild


Marlin Crawler eco seal installed. Housing had blown a cv which was why it was put in the scrap bin. Quick tidy up with the die grinder and the oil seal difuser hit back into place its as good as it will get


Rebuilt axles and new genuine cvs. Still havent fiqured out whether toyota changed the metallurgy of the axles or the seals in the new V8 range but the seals would cut deep grooves into the axles within 6000km of constant 4wd. So what i did was machine a piece of 4140 35mm od and sleeve the axle after machining the axle down. With this mod we had no more problems. Which still pales compared to and 80 series cruiser thats constant 4wd and most get high 200k before having anywhere near the amount of wear. Anyway moving on


Close up of the sleeve


Knuckled assembled and packed full of grease. I had checked the preload before packing full of grease, but forgot to take a pic with my bros cool tool


Ok so painting isnt my strong point, but brush strokes add character. The low profile bungs look though

[tomsoffroad]

Meh what's 2.75yrs...... blink of the eye.

Awesome to see its still in the wings, good work

[Checkerhead]

Yep, keep it up. looking good.