beadlock torque setting

skidmark · Post by **skidmark** » Thu Dec 03, 2015 8:58 pm

Anyone know the torque valve for m8 beadlock bolts?

Reason I ask is I think I got tucked buying my beadlock as he never supplied paperwork or stampt a value in which is required for cert...

Cheers

suzolla · Post by **suzolla** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:15 pm

If they do not have nuts and are threaded directly into the ring I would use the same figure that is used for mild steel bolts which is 8 Nm.
Even though the bolts are high tensile shouldn't use the high tensile torque figure as will possibly strip the threads in the ring.
Cheers
Tim

skidmark · Post by **skidmark** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:18 pm

Magic.yes threaded into ring directly.. I'm assuming a sticker wouldn't cut it as a label. And will need to destroy my powder coat with letter punches....

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:25 pm

skidmark wrote:Magic.yes threaded into ring directly.. I'm assuming a sticker wouldn't cut it as a label. And will need to destroy my powder coat with letter punches....

what about a small metal label that fits onto the outer bead.
or again a metal label that fits over the valve stem and is then glued in place, the valve stem holding nut will also help hold it in place if it did come loose

skidmark · Post by **skidmark** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:28 pm

I like this idea. Cheers

skid · Post by **skid** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:53 pm

Having seen lots of beadlocks over the years.

I cant say I have ever seen paperwork or a stamp relating to torque settings :-/

skidmark · Post by **skidmark** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:56 pm

It's in the lvvta apparently.i saw it online ages ago.

But speaking to Mr certer on the phone said need paperwork for who built them, and a torque setting on them. I have neither.

Paperwork can be bypassed just means I have to pull wheels and tires apart after cert for him to sign them off.

suzolla · Post by **suzolla** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 2:00 pm

Page 11 of http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/stand ... _Tyres.pdf
Cheers
Tim

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 2:21 pm

well best to read that page as a label is not in the rules
check out sections
2.3 (5)- E & I
2.3 (6) A (ii)
also worth a note
2.3 (6) C to E regarding the plating etc for corrosion resistance.

very interesting

im picking that ya powder coating may well get the big stamp.

or on sell the rims and start afresh with cert-able units

Big · Post by **Big** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 3:37 pm

Very interesting reading as I was about to try the Mudstuck beadlocks but reading this they do NOT meet the requirements for cert, then being a waste of cash..

skidmark · Post by **skidmark** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 4:34 pm

2.3 (6)e is referring to the bolt coating not the wheel itself?

But yes definitely states need a tighten torque on it

LOLYF · Post by **LOLYF** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 7:51 pm

The torque setting for my JRC beadlocks states 22nm

skidmark · Post by **skidmark** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 7:52 pm

Is that nut and bolt? Or into ms plate?

But if it's that simple I'll squeeze that in. Worst comes to worst I'll have to get outer ring re coated

Madaz · Post by **Madaz** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 7:53 pm

Yep, i did about 10 sets of wheels a few years ago, and all the ones that went on trucks getting certifed got the torque setting stamped on them

Madaz · Post by **Madaz** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 7:56 pm

I just stamped the outer ring where the wheel weights would sit, think i stamped "torque bolts to 8nm" kept certifer happy

skidmark · Post by **skidmark** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 7:58 pm

Just answered my next question.. so obviously the outer lip is ok to stamp. And to 8nm

Madaz · Post by **Madaz** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 7:59 pm

I was using 6mm bolts to keep the weight down

Madaz · Post by **Madaz** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 8:05 pm

Actually that might be the wrong torque setting, i will check a rim tomorrow.

To be honest it wont matter what you put, certifer wont care as long as theres something written there..... sad, but true.....

skidmark · Post by **skidmark** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 8:11 pm

Sad that it is probably true and no doubt we will always do it by feel but if I'm stamping it in I'd like to have it close to correct...

"Tighten till it strips then do the rest a bit less" is a bit long to stamp in haha

Big · Post by **Big** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 10:17 pm

you could always do a test run on some spare steel same thickness and get an average tq setting then stamp it.. that way you will KNOW it wont strip the thread..

eins · Post by **eins** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 10:57 pm

Big wrote:Very interesting reading as I was about to try the Mudstuck beadlocks but reading this they do NOT meet the requirements for cert, then being a waste of cash..

They are imported modified or manufactured that way overseas and sold as new istem so not sure they would come under this anyway. They would need paperwork from manufacture stating/proving that they are suitable for road use.

Madaz · Post by **Madaz** » Sat Dec 05, 2015 9:53 am

Yep, too many beersies last night......

I had "Torque Bolts 16nm" that kept him happy

Big · Post by **Big** » Sat Dec 05, 2015 11:13 am

eins wrote:
Big wrote:Very interesting reading as I was about to try the Mudstuck beadlocks but reading this they do NOT meet the requirements for cert, then being a waste of cash..
They are imported modified or manufactured that way overseas and sold as new istem so not sure they would come under this anyway. They would need paperwork from manufacture stating/proving that they are suitable for road use.

Yea was what I was thinking also but under current rules they don't meet the requirements as I asked Mudstuck regarding ring thickness etc and they are only made out of 3mm rings etc..

so yea.. said to be having great success and are standing up to the pain.. but currently don't meet the rules.. so next stage was to see if manufacturer could issue a ps4 / ps3 statement to meet rules.. and again since then they are no longer available..? I have asked so time will tell unless they are getting more..

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Sat Dec 05, 2015 11:21 am

personnally i would not use bolts alone on 3mm plate. i would fit a set of nyloks up behind the plate to ensure the thread doesnt let go.
to much rides on the wheels in my opinion. 144 m6 nyloks aint that dear

Big · Post by **Big** » Sat Dec 05, 2015 2:58 pm

Yea they are back nut'd ( or run nuts attached).. so not so bad.. but they are not bringing in anymore until feb or so.. and are looking at being road worthy which is good but at a price hike and as I said to the fella.. if ya going to charge more then you can get rims changed for less.. and they will meet requirements and most likely be a better and stronger rim to start with..but time will tell

skidmark · Post by **skidmark** » Sun Dec 13, 2015 6:31 pm

Hopefully this will keep him happy...

A bit wonky bit itlldo

beadlock torque setting

beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting

Re: beadlock torque setting