Saf sprite steerng box

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Tue Mar 15, 2016 8:47 pm

Ok fellas got a goodie here.
Twisted the sector shaft on my industructable steering box......

Now i know these are as rear as hens teeth so....

Does anybody know where i can get a replacment shaft from?
Or
If a shaft out of a small truck would fit?.

Or do i ditch it and go hydrulic steering?

This is the box. To dark to get photo of spline

Lchundy · Post by **Lchundy** » Tue Mar 15, 2016 10:34 pm

Is that the bigger of the 2 safari steering boxes?
Might know where one is

mudtroll · Post by **mudtroll** » Wed Mar 16, 2016 5:07 am

There is one for sale on trade me, but he wants ridiculous money for it.

Twodiffs · Post by **Twodiffs** » Wed Mar 16, 2016 8:14 am

Yea I'm using an 082, took ages to find it too. What did you actually twist on it?

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Wed Mar 16, 2016 8:34 pm

Twodiffs wrote:Yea I'm using an 082, took ages to find it too. What did you actually twist on it?

Not to sure. Was doing a hard climb bouncing off banks etc.
Know i slid hard a couple of times. Failing that there were several times of bouncing off rocks and tree roots during the complete ran.

Either way its still twisted.

There was a chap on here a whilst back advertising a full hydro steer unit.

Anybody remember who it was??

mudtroll · Post by **mudtroll** » Thu Mar 17, 2016 4:59 am

Andy 79465? Think he has sold it though.

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Thu Mar 17, 2016 6:00 pm

righto ive sent Andy a pm so if anybody knows him zap him a text on my behalf please.

so im heading down the rout of hydro steer. any pointers before i get the grinder out.

its fitting onto a y60 diff, i would like to mount it on the rear to assist in protection plus thats where the tie rods are. is that the best option?

what about a ram on the front of the diff doing push/pull onto the steering link mount?

also the chevy pump has been "modified". how do i work out flow/pressure fiqures and match the ram and steering box units ?

mudtroll · Post by **mudtroll** » Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:14 am

I'm looking at doing the same soon. Thinking rear the best option, slightly better protectored, existing mounting arms, front would need a mod on drivers side & panhard in the way. Cons hard to get the diff head out unless everything is un-boltable & I bend the rear tie rod more than the front, don't know if that's from hitting it or pressure on the wheels bending it.
I'll txt Andrew for you.

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 am

mudtroll wrote:I'm looking at doing the same soon. Thinking rear the best option, slightly better protectored, existing mounting arms, front would need a mod on drivers side & panhard in the way. Cons hard to get the diff head out unless everything is un-boltable & I bend the rear tie rod more than the front, don't know if that's from hitting it or pressure on the wheels bending it.
I'll txt Andrew for you.

Cheers Rog.
Maybe we could look at a dual buy?
Dont know what fluid rate and pressure your pump deploys. Reasonably certain my chevy pump will cope.
Something to look at is a single v belt can only transfur around 4.5hp. The pump on 4wdbits is only a single belt so std pumps with a little tweeking should proform adaquately...

Fyi my pump will not operate on a single belt but with the double belts fitted i can turn lock to lock at idle on tarseal using just two fingers running my 36's at 12pd.
Never been able to do that in the previous 10+ yrs of v8 wheeling. Very impressed i am...

Checkerhead · Post by **Checkerhead** » Fri Mar 18, 2016 9:39 am

Mounting a ram on the front and leaving the tie rod in place is not ideal because it would use a single ended ram. You really want a double ended ram such that the piston surface area and bore volume is the same size for both directions. This will give you equal strength and speed steering in both directions.

I've never done it but Madaz has recently gone down this path a reckons you'd be hard pressed to get everything sorted for less than the price of a trail gear kit from either Warren (4wdbits.co.nz) or Tim (4wdstuff.co.nz). Also he was impressed by how much stock they each had on hand. Both are super helpful guys. I'd ring/email them and have a chat.

4wdstuff · Post by **4wdstuff** » Fri Mar 18, 2016 11:15 am

Other option is to go hydro assist , probably be easier to install behind the axle housing, just need to work out where to tap into the steering box hydraulic circuit.
Cheers
Tim

mudtroll · Post by **mudtroll** » Fri Mar 18, 2016 4:24 pm

I'll have a talk with you at Possum Tim

Craydiver · Post by **Craydiver** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:42 pm

Im too looking at hydro steer on a dedicated offroad build using Y60 diff im about to start (I pickup diffs this week.)
Was also looking at rear mounting if pos rather than front to avoid the frontal rock impacts etc
Was about to look at who can supply locally else going direct to Trailgear site

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:54 pm

Craydiver wrote:Im too looking at hydro steer on a dedicated offroad build using Y60 diff im about to start (I pickup diffs this week.)
Was also looking at rear mounting if pos rather than front to avoid the frontal rock impacts etc
Was about to look at who can supply locally else going direct to Trailgear site

Been speaking to warren and trail gear dont do y60 stuff. Its a case of using some t.g. stuff and fabbing to suit y60 or modfing y60 to suit t.g. either way mucking around will be involved

Madaz · Post by **Madaz** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:44 pm

Yeah as Checkerhead said the stuff in the TrailGear kits that 4wdbits and 4wdstuff are doing seems pretty good quality, can be mounted up outta the way on a toyota diff.....
( not that that helps all you Datsun owners.........

)

Madaz · Post by **Madaz** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:49 pm

On those TrailGear kits they can supply whatever pulley you need, be it a single V or a multi rib

silveradoman · Post by **silveradoman** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 9:13 pm

The nissan safari knuckles can be changed from left to right. moving the tie rod mounts to the front for hydraulic/ orbital steering.
well it's what we did.

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Wed Mar 23, 2016 5:59 am

silveradoman wrote:The nissan safari knuckles can be changed from left to right. moving the tie rod mounts to the front for hydraulic/ orbital steering.
well it's what we did.

How did this affect your steering?
Re camber etc

silveradoman · Post by **silveradoman** » Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:11 pm

Camber is un changed because your mounting back in the same position just on opposite sides.
We did cut off the drag link arm for reasons i can't remember but if you need to cut small amounts at a time because its hollow.
O and gusset knuckles while your there if not all ready done

.

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Wed Mar 23, 2016 8:00 pm

And last question if i may.
Panhard arm? Did it fowl the ram? Or did you go to a 4 link at the same time?

Opps that 3 but you know how it goes....

derk · Post by **derk** » Wed Mar 23, 2016 8:08 pm

if you have a look at the howat D class buggies you'll see another way to go about a saf hydro setup

silveradoman · Post by **silveradoman** » Wed Mar 23, 2016 8:43 pm

hey, yea running 3 link with custom panhard. So not sure.
All ways how it goes mod one thing and 5-6 mods around it, now it works nicely.

Checkerhead · Post by **Checkerhead** » Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:53 pm

Where did you get to on this Mudlva?

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Mon Apr 04, 2016 8:04 pm

Been told by two 4bys that ran the h.d. box to just adjust the steering link arm to suit and drive it. Both had twisted shafts and neither broke theirs. One is still going now on second owner and it had the shit kicked out of it for over 5 hard years. It had the twist after the second ran. It was running a 350 and the foot was always 2 inches below the floor boards and screaming.

Cant afford hyrdo so just going to carry a std spare box and keep on wheeling.

Bought a new adjustable link off warren and found its to long

So looking at shortening another std link them bracing it up or trying to pull the pitman arm off and turn by 1 tooth. Issue of course is its bent so it may not come off.

Bit stuck at the moment....

Still keen on hyrdo just need a couple of $k to get it under way.

It will help solve a couple of other problems at the same time

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Tue Apr 05, 2016 7:24 am

Ok it looks like im pulling the pitman off...

Any susgestions tips or advice?

Hopeing to leave the box inplace if i can

suzolla · Post by **suzolla** » Tue Apr 05, 2016 7:54 am

Hydraulic puller, some quick heat and a hammer to shock it.

If not going to hydro steer, possibly fit hydro assist, how much travel does your tie rod and drag link have.

Cheers
Tim

suzolla · Post by **suzolla** » Tue Apr 05, 2016 8:15 am

Have a look at

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/hydro-as ... -gear.html

and, note this is for a toyota box

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10579.0

note that I have got a couple of kits

Cheers
Tim

Mehrts · Post by **Mehrts** » Tue Apr 05, 2016 12:26 pm

I had a bastard of a time trying to get the pitman arm off an old steering box.

What did it in the end was to heat up the pitman arm around the steering box shaft, sprayed some CRC Penetr8 freeze off spray onto the steering box shaft while having a gear puller as tight as I could get it and then gave the arm one solid smack with a hammer to shock everything. Gave a little pop and came free!

The difference in temp of the two parts as well as the penetrating properties of the spray seemed to do the trick nicely

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Tue Apr 05, 2016 1:15 pm

Cheers mehrts

mudlva · Post by **mudlva** » Tue Apr 05, 2016 9:51 pm

Ok further developements.

Found that the pitman arm fits onto a spline that will not allow it to rotate by one click.
So machined my new adjustable link arm down and will get in re.welded up tomorrow.
Its c.m. tube so out of my welding league.

Saf sprite steerng box

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