Whirring fan noise from engine bay.

[3rnzir]

This condition started a couple of days ago.
Normally hear this whir for a minute or two then it dies away from a cold start.
But now is on all the time until I reach top gear around 80kms.
Seems to be using a little bit more water too.
No air con working/on.
So is this perhaps a radiator cooling fan issue?
If it is a easy fix that would be great as I have a bit of a road trip(700km) in a couple of days.
Cheerz.

[smurf182]

Using water? It's either dripping it on the road or coming out the tail pipe. Figuring out which is probably key to diagnosing your problem.

Is it getting hot? Smoking more than usual? Smell of coolant anywhere in or around the car?

[3rnzir]

Hi ya smurf.
Always seems to smoked a bit when I floor it from stationary up to hiway speed.
Cooling/rad fan very stiff to rotate by hand when engine is both warmed up or cold.
Can`t see any leaks when system is pressurized.
Think maybe viscous/fan clutch is shot.
1995 with 300k on the chassis and a 140K replacement engine.
Only cost a couple of grand.
I believe the fan clutch is good for 100k so had a good run out of it maybe.

[MihiT]

Viscous fan clutches can be refilled, I've never done it myself but there are videos on youtube, it would be worth having a go anyway.

[catalystracing]

Viscous fluid can be bought from BNT for about $30.

[3rnzir]

I saw a couple of YT clips on the clutch fan viscous refill option.
Though further research indicated that getting a tight seal can be problematic.
Anyone tried a daviescraig electric water pump and electric fan conversion on a D1?
Flexi-lite make great looking fans too,and USA manufactured a bonus too
May free up a few HP.
Good to know about the BNT option for the clutch fluid.
Not sure what grade/viscosity fluid to get though.

[3rnzir]

Right O.
Update time.
Found the slow leak.
Lifted the hood whilst engine bay was hot.
And small steam leak at top of radiator by the top hose.
So I am going with a triple tube re-core.
Superior cooling properties according to the radiator tech.
Costs a little more than a LR OEM radiator but the lR D1 rad is a twin tube rad I think.
Same as I had/have.
Will replace viscous fan clutch,water pump,T Stat and serpentine belt.
Apparently,if either the fan clutch or WP goes crook,best practice is to replace both units together.
May punch out and replace all serpentine pully bearing at this time as well.
And guess what?
The rad core is fab`ed in NZ(Penrose),but not sure where the metal is sourced from though.
Still,happy with the NZMade component.
Was thinking of going down the EWP and Efan path.
But chickened out on that.
Will let you know how things pan out.
PITA not having all the correct tools for the job.
Usually end buying 1 or 2 expensive tools that will seldom be used again.
As in a special 36mm clutch fan spanner from BNT in my case.
Need a joint like AutoZone in the USA where one can hire or use for free oddball tools.
Gap in the NZ market here perhaps?
Cheerz Men