An Un-named Outlaw...

[mudlva]

Yes but why is it any different than the gearbox that your going to drive it off..... it will still need gearing reduction to set the speed so the torque loading will be the same

Yeah hear ya but was only thinking that the flex plate clutch plate mounting is way stronger than the front pully mount. Yes the output is exact front to rear but the rear is better designed to transfur that power

Thats all.

[mudtroll]

Brake is the complicating issue with a god winch, don't think they bother with them in Malaysia.

[callum007]

I didn't check how old the comment was re 48vdc.. why not a 48v alternator? I had to use one to make a -48vdc (yes minus 48v) generator...
Used in marine/mining industry

[De-Ranged]

Brake is the complicating issue with a god winch, don't think they bother with them in Malaysia.

Got a couple of ideas, best is a hydrolic disk brake on the imput to the gearing reduction... effectively multiplying its holding power with a spring activation similar to trailer brake so pulling in unloads the spring

I didn't check how old the comment was re 48vdc.. why not a 48v alternator? I had to use one to make a -48vdc (yes minus 48v) generator...
Used in marine/mining industry

lol not that old, and yes I have checked a 48v alt isn't that bad on price and what I thought of till a mate pointed out 4 batteries all drawing on it will be a hard load on the engine at low rpm.... setting up a throttle increase to compensate for this wouldn't be too hard catch is how is this going to effect the trans if I have to drive gently lol I see alot of wheel spin

Got a wee bit done tonight, one side for the trailer is taking shape

[callum007]

I suppose but it's all relative.. a 200a 12v and a 50amp 48v although use the same (approx) as they make the same amount of energy. I know you'll understand all that but for reference the 48v 100amp unit ran the Kubota 13hp at ~75% when max output.

Out of interest what is ur trailer axle? I'm on the hunt for something similar

[De-Ranged]

Isuzu elf.... think they have a 3 ton max payload, 13" rims, been warned by some of the boys in the North that the 12" rim tyres can't handle it.... I used to load 3 ton on my dyna firewood truck but I got that fitted with 8 ply HD tyres, that said I only run it for 3 months on them till I modified a set of 14"canter rims to fit, so I could get a more offroad tread pattern

[De-Ranged]

Didn't do anything on the trailer today, I attacked the parts car 

Stripped the front off and removed alot of the engine bay trim... so it'll be easier to get to the bits and pieces to remove the motor and box 



Then started on the inside 


Had a bit of a windfall while stripping this ..... found $15.60 in change lol 

Now that this is done its just a case of pushing it into the workshop so I can weld up the broken tierod and then we can start unplugging and stripping electrics and driving it so I can work out what is tied into the body control module.... then work out what signals, voltage etc it needs to think its still there, this is why I've even stripped the door cards this gives me access to the central locking 

I have left the stereo hooked up tho.... surprisingly good sounds from a factory unit and we will need some good music while testing this to make certain the body control module/security doesn't effect the trans and limit things

[De-Ranged]

Needed a bit of fun, so we kicked the car (literately as the steering box was broken) into the shed for a quality temp fix

Nek min-it


Go to put the wheel back on and the jack had sunk get my mate to pump it up a bit more... sweet as put the wheel on and the car comes down... without us touching the jack lol yea not what you think


Might be a little structural damage there
All good lol out the door and time to see how well it goes..... lol it goes very well! now just to set the scene no front seats carpet dash or trim sitting on the floor driving it..... passenger had the back seat tho lol


first application of throttle proved we don't need the airbags connected..... the passenger one left where it was mounted to the dash X member and landed in the passangers lap...... in the back seat, disconnecting its self on the way lol that went out the window real quick, safety first!

Next door locks, security etc nothing seems to stop this running finally get to the ABS had a go at the fuse buggered if we could work out how to pull it so we just unplugged the pump.... safety first we had better check we still can stop so a little speed and a gentle application of brakes..... and my mate goes flying from the back seat to the windscreen lol you think about stopping and your face is in the windscreen

Had to swop drivers just to make certain all was good.... yep same result you touch the brakes and the passanger hits the windscreen lol time to park up

[Smurf]

Great to see you are putting Safety at the top of your list.

[De-Ranged]

Haven't really done much on this been building a trailer for it... fame is all done just got to build some shouldered 22mm bolts for the springs to shackles and I'll be able to drop it onto its wheels
But on a positive note I got some profiles last week took a wee while for them to get to me lol a little mix up with dispatch at steel n tube.... got them just before I flew home for the weekend, a real tease



Got two rings drilled and tapped lol getting over doing this by hand... no drill press so just a battery drill and a hand tap 2hrs to do a ring!
Hopefully have them done next week then I decide if I still galv them

[De-Ranged]

A wee update 

Got some time in the shed working on a couple of things 

First up some stepped bolts for the shackles on the trailer.... the bolt head is just some nuts I thinned and drilled out the idea is I can set them to the right length when I've got the shackles together 



Also got enough time to finish machining this 



Thats both ends done and you can just see I polished the welds on the bottom while I had it off.... been thinking since I'm going to have the axles behind and in front of anything they need to clear as the suspension cycles I don't need to worry about where the diff pumpkin sits so I'm toying with mixing and matching inner shafts from trailgear for my longfields to give me some more width and reduce the scrub radius due to offsetting the rims with wheel spacers etc 

[De-Ranged]

Down to my last beadlock


Hows that for low profile.... I hate big rings they trap the mud in the rim for reference they are 8mm bolts not 6mm
They are a bit different in that the backside of the ring is "V" out on the seam and welded


Any of the CHCH boys know a cheap place to get them sand blasted, and a good galvanisers

[catalystracing]

[quote="Got two rings drilled and tapped lol getting over doing this by hand... no drill press so just a battery drill and a hand tap 2hrs to do a ring! /quote]

Invest in a spiral point gun tap, fit to ya drill and dribble a bit of lube and tap without stress .

gun tap.jpg (11.06 KiB) Viewed 18742 times

[4x4]

Any of the CHCH boys know a cheap place to get them sand blasted, and a good galvanisers

Sand blasting, either Hunt engineering off Branston St, or Wilcock Truck Painters, Hayton Rd.
Galvers, Perry Metal Protection
5 Chinook Place, Hornby
03 349 0290 or 0800 446 8347 (0800 4 HOT DIP)

[De-Ranged]

A wee update got the rims back from the Sandblasters and Galvanizers
Went to Wilcocks for the sandblasting.... a bit dearer than I'm used to but they were happy to run them across town to Perry
I'm rapt with the job they have come up mint

Would happily recommend both of them particularly Perry Metal they were a difficult job and they are near perfict

Have them tapped out and mounted just waiting to see if any are leaking before I put them on the truck, will get a pic this arvo

Also bought the start of the Comp Winch

At $250 for a 70 series PTO it was too good to turn down, after I steam cleaned it, I found it was mint don't think its seen much more than a couple of uses and it was covered in grease a great buy!
I'm holding off on the motors at the moment doing a bit more research
DC motors generate the best power at about half there free running RPM's, the catch is alot of motors are sold only listing the max torque which happens at stall so two different motors say for example the 6hp Ramsey and the 6hp Runva, the Ramsey has a speed of 2100rpm and the Runva I've been told by winch.co.nz is 7000rpm (will confirm this as a warn motor is only 4000rpm)
and this isn't getting into calculating AMP loads lol
Will be a bit more to come on this

[wjw]

and this isn't getting into calculating AMP loads lol

As you're doing this over time, cheapest way I found to buy cable was from ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Cable-P ... SwaB5XmDpi

Also bought the crimpers to do the big arse terminals, although I havent used them yet.

[De-Ranged]

If you hadn't heard I blew the motor on its maiden voyage lol only 500m from the carpark I didn't even get to the first 4wd section lol

But I learned the suspension is worse than I thought the rear radius arms steer the truck badly due to high angle they ramp up from the axle to chassis so every time I adjust the throttle the back end goes up or down, enough that it can easily reach full down travel (limit chains lol) when you engage first gear on the auto at idle! on road this ment any change of throttle ment the steering changed and at about 30khr I was struggling to keep it inside my lane on the road
Also the diffs are too low geared I need more speed 30k/hr was flat out lol so I need to find out what they are pretty certain they are 4.8's so thats an easy fix

So I'd kinda decided to strip it and focus on MK2, but I want a toy to play with lol so decided to get another motor and fix the rear
Had a mates lad hanging around at work and he was keen to help so left him to it to pull a few bits off came back to find this

asked him to remove the calipers so I could get the hubs off lol..... I did leave him too it

Anyway so far I'm back to the question of do I continue lol stripped one hub and need so far... set of wheel bearings, new brass spindle bush so worn that there are no oil gallerys left showing might have something to do with no spring clips on either the axle or CV, I allready knew I needed two sets of swivel housing kits and then I found this

The photo doesn't do it justice.... if I was to to lock the diff and try and drive on this I"d strip it, and this had been put back in like this as the CV spline is all good! I'm hopping the diff and lockers are in better shape
I'm now back to the same situation how much time and money am I going to plow into a turd just so its usable and I'm only going to thrash it till I've built MKII

So I'm left with throwing alot of money at the axles (I don't expect the rest to be any better!) or putting a set of my axles under and putting alot of time at it to fix the suspension replace diffs and motor.... only to sell in a yr (or a bit longer lol)

[mfrsr]

if you finish this build im gonna almost be disappointed...be a shame to break the habit.

[De-Ranged]

Mate you have no idea lol The original Outlaw is going to need to be totally rebuilt.... cage cut off the chassis and chassis repaired and the cage built to safe standard before I can sell it......
Oh and I'm now working in Western Aussie so I don't think I'll get much of a chance to build mkII anytime soon lol

[De-Ranged]

An overdue update, I decided to rebuild this lol a good mate was interested in it and there is no way I'd consider selling this to anyone...... so

Carved it back to chassis fixed the dangerous previous repairs..... mounted a new motor on new engine mounts (barrel style so there is no chance of breaking as one was ripped apart lol)



i've mounted it a little further back and higher so I have a flat bottom, mounts are stepped (up and down) I've done this to limit torque roll from the motor so I can put the engine cover closer (hope this doesn't cause issues later lol)

Rear suspension is sort of in lol I'm re-making the lower arms with some jony joints at one end and the upper links are possibly getting new range rover cartridge ball joints (still waiting to see what I decide ) I've replaced the rear axle with a coil hilux one and shaved and braced it, this is a link setup that I've been playing with in an old landy that has an odd effect as the links extend it generates less AS my theory is this will reduce AS lockout of the suspension and climb better.... it appeared to work on the orriginal truck so time to try it on something better (I've removed the hydro steering as it wandered and was a total handfull at more than 30kph... I'm saving it at this stage and might look at sorting the issues with it later on another buggy)


To make it a bit more fun for me to build and after consulting cough fri-night-drinks lol with my mate I've decided to make this a club winch comp buggy-ish lol so that means a windscreen roof and half doors so I'm building it to look Landy series ish..... I say ish because while it will have a landy cab the front and rear panels are going to be dovetailed and shortened .... to be honest, I can't even properly visualize it so I don't know how this is going to turn out lol
So here it is at the moment


That is the rear suspension in, the rear DS is a little lower at the diff end but soon clear the links so I've got a nice flat bottom lol

[De-Ranged]

The back one is the easy one lol the only tricky bit is the amount of cut out for the wheel in guard..... the front dovetail now that I can't visualize, I really don't know if I can make it work lol that will be a wait n see 

Got a bit more time in the shed, was on a roll, finished cutting and straightening the Drivers B pillar and Plated for the cage attachment, got the capping sorted for the drives side of the tub, made up a set of hammer form dies to make a folded edge on the inside of the capping - cage plate, cut and formed these plates, bent up the two corner cage supports, got one of them mounted...... all in three hrs was looking at the getting the rear of the cage all done in the next 4.... and a couple of mates rock in with drinks lol so here is where I stopped 


This thing is going to look sick when its done at the moment sitting on the jack stands with the 36" tyre 2" off the ground if you look across the top of the tub at my 109" in the background the tub on this is 3" lower and the 109" is sitting in a lower section of the floor so all up this is going to sit 7"s lower with bigger wheels and a bucket load more ground clearance.... I'm happy lol 

[4x4]

Looking good De. Be Haast ready will it?

[De-Ranged]

Na I'll take the cruiser its not a transaxle so has some speed and its setup ready to go

[De-Ranged]

A bit of an update
Fitted some Johny Joints to the front of the bottom rear arms


And made some new rear top links.... using some Range Rover cartridge Ball Joints


Also finished the rear roll cage and made some new chassis top link mounts

https://scontent.fpmr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/ ... e=5D37AF7E
https://scontent.fpmr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/ ... e=5D38FAE1

[Clint]

Nice work. Good to see plenty of drillium being used for max power/weight

Cheers
Clint

[wjw]

Nice work. Good to see plenty of drillium being used for max power/weight

Cheers
Clint

Maybe those were the pilot holes that were in the wrong place