V8 Land Rover project
Re: V8 Land Rover project
BEP721 ordered. $118 including rural delivery
You can charge batteries in both series and parallel, but if you have a dud battery in either case, it will cause problems. Neither configuration will cause damage to healthy batteries.
If you have a dud battery in the 24v series config, you may get a voltage imbalance across the two battery's and damage the good battery. So say 6v across the shagged battery because the cells have shorted out, and 18v across the good battery, which will cook it.
If you have a dud battery in the 12v parallel config, with the motor switched off, the healthy battery will discharge into the dud battery and go flat. Charging will always be balanced but the dud battery won't charge up, and discharge your good battery.
None of the above is a problem it both batteries are healthy. It's a good idea to measure and monitor the voltage across the terminals of each battery and catch the problem early so you only have to replace one battery. You can measure it directly across the terminals of each battery for the 24v series config. For the parallel 12v config you need to disconnect the two batteries for sometime then measure.
With this BEP721 switch, I can check that each individual battery winds the truck over at a similar speed, monitoring battery condition pretty crudely, but better than nothing.
Wjw is right, a 12v takeoff from one battery of a 24v system causes imbalance.
You can charge batteries in both series and parallel, but if you have a dud battery in either case, it will cause problems. Neither configuration will cause damage to healthy batteries.
If you have a dud battery in the 24v series config, you may get a voltage imbalance across the two battery's and damage the good battery. So say 6v across the shagged battery because the cells have shorted out, and 18v across the good battery, which will cook it.
If you have a dud battery in the 12v parallel config, with the motor switched off, the healthy battery will discharge into the dud battery and go flat. Charging will always be balanced but the dud battery won't charge up, and discharge your good battery.
None of the above is a problem it both batteries are healthy. It's a good idea to measure and monitor the voltage across the terminals of each battery and catch the problem early so you only have to replace one battery. You can measure it directly across the terminals of each battery for the 24v series config. For the parallel 12v config you need to disconnect the two batteries for sometime then measure.
With this BEP721 switch, I can check that each individual battery winds the truck over at a similar speed, monitoring battery condition pretty crudely, but better than nothing.
Wjw is right, a 12v takeoff from one battery of a 24v system causes imbalance.
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Got the new Federal Couragia 265/75 r16 tyres fitted today. Road manners are well, it has road manners now So much quieter and more acceleration vs the simex's.
Hit a loose gravel hill climb near home and it climbed much better with the slightly wider and less aggressive tyres. The simex's probably would have just dug holes.
Old vs new comparison
Hit a loose gravel hill climb near home and it climbed much better with the slightly wider and less aggressive tyres. The simex's probably would have just dug holes.
Old vs new comparison
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Hey Chaps,
Well its been a couple of years since the LR got it's cert and a couple of routine problems have finally got the better of me and so I'm tinkering with a few bits and pieces at the moment as well as a general service.
Worst mechanical problem, I've got a new wide angle rear driveshaft on the way as the shortened factory series 2a rear driveshaft has been binding up, most obvious when travelling at 100km/hr then lifting off the gas lightly. I think it is exaggerated due to a bit of slop in the center diff. While looking into replacing the driveshaft, I've been sent some info that stating the front driveshaft needs to be installed between 22.5 to 45degrees out of phase because the front diff and transfer case output flanges aren't parallel as per 110 setup. Currently front driveshaft is in-phase but always attributed my vibration to the rear driveshaft binding, so will look into this further once the new rear driveshaft is installed.
With the new rear driveshaft, I'm hoping I will be able to install the 2" shock droppers in the rear and get the advantages of my rear spring retainers. The old driveshaft couldn't handle the additional angle with the shock droppers installed.
Changing the oils showed the gearbox oil to be clean as a whistle, transfer case and overdrive a little dirty so might change them a little more often. They also seem to have the highest factory oil leak rate.
I had trouble on one trip with 4wd not selecting and didn't have a 4wd light, so wired up a green LED so I know definitely if 4wd is in or out. Bit easier than doing hill climbs to find out the centre diff is out.
I've got a bluetooth-RS232 adaptor ordered for the MSII so I can run MSdroid on my android phone to make minor tuning adjustments on the fly. It's coming from the states all pre-configured so will give an update on how that works out. I'm also thinking of screwing an old android phone to the dash permanently to show extra gauges I don't have, like battery voltage, throttle position, IAC stepper motor position, TPS, injector opening time. The MSII has proven 100% reliable, but still has a couple of on/off throttle response improvements I want to teak, response is just a little harsh, bit to much fuel, so I plan to pull that back.
Im removing my reserve fuel tank as it's always leaked, even with the POR15 tank sealer in their so, time to make a new one from alloy so I don't have to carry around jerry cans. Also planning on making another primary tank with internal fuel pump and surge tank so I don't have to listen to the noise of the external fuel pump whining, which gets a bit tiring at the end of a long day.
Want to make a highlift jack and spare wheel mountings on the rear rollbar braces. Would be good to get the weight of the spare wheel off the bonnet as well as it's starting to take its toll on the bonnet frame and driving the truck quickly offroad, it feels like I've got a bit much weight on the front axle, and could do with about a 2 inch springlift to increase diff to bumpstops. Think the original springs have just sagged a bit.
Also want to add some sound deadening material underneath the seatbox, gear box tunnel and floor to try shut up the exhaust and gearbox reverberation inside the truck. Was thinking dynamat type product, does anyone know of a good place to source it from? Seems quite expensive on trademe at about $150/m2.
Also trying to figure out how to make a kenworth truck style roof liner to quiten things down as well.
What a yarn, pic from the last trip
Well its been a couple of years since the LR got it's cert and a couple of routine problems have finally got the better of me and so I'm tinkering with a few bits and pieces at the moment as well as a general service.
Worst mechanical problem, I've got a new wide angle rear driveshaft on the way as the shortened factory series 2a rear driveshaft has been binding up, most obvious when travelling at 100km/hr then lifting off the gas lightly. I think it is exaggerated due to a bit of slop in the center diff. While looking into replacing the driveshaft, I've been sent some info that stating the front driveshaft needs to be installed between 22.5 to 45degrees out of phase because the front diff and transfer case output flanges aren't parallel as per 110 setup. Currently front driveshaft is in-phase but always attributed my vibration to the rear driveshaft binding, so will look into this further once the new rear driveshaft is installed.
With the new rear driveshaft, I'm hoping I will be able to install the 2" shock droppers in the rear and get the advantages of my rear spring retainers. The old driveshaft couldn't handle the additional angle with the shock droppers installed.
Changing the oils showed the gearbox oil to be clean as a whistle, transfer case and overdrive a little dirty so might change them a little more often. They also seem to have the highest factory oil leak rate.
I had trouble on one trip with 4wd not selecting and didn't have a 4wd light, so wired up a green LED so I know definitely if 4wd is in or out. Bit easier than doing hill climbs to find out the centre diff is out.
I've got a bluetooth-RS232 adaptor ordered for the MSII so I can run MSdroid on my android phone to make minor tuning adjustments on the fly. It's coming from the states all pre-configured so will give an update on how that works out. I'm also thinking of screwing an old android phone to the dash permanently to show extra gauges I don't have, like battery voltage, throttle position, IAC stepper motor position, TPS, injector opening time. The MSII has proven 100% reliable, but still has a couple of on/off throttle response improvements I want to teak, response is just a little harsh, bit to much fuel, so I plan to pull that back.
Im removing my reserve fuel tank as it's always leaked, even with the POR15 tank sealer in their so, time to make a new one from alloy so I don't have to carry around jerry cans. Also planning on making another primary tank with internal fuel pump and surge tank so I don't have to listen to the noise of the external fuel pump whining, which gets a bit tiring at the end of a long day.
Want to make a highlift jack and spare wheel mountings on the rear rollbar braces. Would be good to get the weight of the spare wheel off the bonnet as well as it's starting to take its toll on the bonnet frame and driving the truck quickly offroad, it feels like I've got a bit much weight on the front axle, and could do with about a 2 inch springlift to increase diff to bumpstops. Think the original springs have just sagged a bit.
Also want to add some sound deadening material underneath the seatbox, gear box tunnel and floor to try shut up the exhaust and gearbox reverberation inside the truck. Was thinking dynamat type product, does anyone know of a good place to source it from? Seems quite expensive on trademe at about $150/m2.
Also trying to figure out how to make a kenworth truck style roof liner to quiten things down as well.
What a yarn, pic from the last trip
Re: V8 Land Rover project
There is an American copy of the Dynamatt called Eastwood X-Matt its what I plan to use....
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 520334.htm
This works out at 3.5m2 for $300 this stuff isn't as thick as Dynamatt brand but I've found good reviews about there product and I've seen it used in alot of the custom shops that Youtube now here's the tip you can buy direct from the states from Eastwood
http://www.eastwood.com/xmat-sound-dead ... sq-ft.html
Sign up for there club this is a product that regually pops up on there sales for 20-30% off..... I'd say they will be due for another one within the next couple of months
Unfortunately they only ship express
They also do a hood/roof lining as well I was just going to use butyl mat on the roof of my landy
Steer clear of the building version of this it is even thinner and from what feedback I found from the car audio guys who have used this.... doesn't stick as well, once it lifts it stops doing its job, issue with the heat and best of all some complained of a strong chemical odor
Eastwood have just brought out a spray on version that looks like it would be ideal to spray on the underside of the floor... catch is shipping may turn into a nightmare as its a chemical if you do get some let me know how it goes
Cheers
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 520334.htm
This works out at 3.5m2 for $300 this stuff isn't as thick as Dynamatt brand but I've found good reviews about there product and I've seen it used in alot of the custom shops that Youtube now here's the tip you can buy direct from the states from Eastwood
http://www.eastwood.com/xmat-sound-dead ... sq-ft.html
Sign up for there club this is a product that regually pops up on there sales for 20-30% off..... I'd say they will be due for another one within the next couple of months
Unfortunately they only ship express
They also do a hood/roof lining as well I was just going to use butyl mat on the roof of my landy
Steer clear of the building version of this it is even thinner and from what feedback I found from the car audio guys who have used this.... doesn't stick as well, once it lifts it stops doing its job, issue with the heat and best of all some complained of a strong chemical odor
Eastwood have just brought out a spray on version that looks like it would be ideal to spray on the underside of the floor... catch is shipping may turn into a nightmare as its a chemical if you do get some let me know how it goes
Cheers
Re: V8 Land Rover project
What's it like when it gets wet? was worried about water getting trapped between this stuff and the floor pan and causing it to rust.
-----------------------
Who knew Prados could fly?
Who knew Prados could fly?
Re: V8 Land Rover project
That boils down to prep, you want a good clean painted surface, clean it with solvent first.. if your surface was wet you will trap water under the sheets, being rubber they will seal it there really well
If you have rust and apply this you trap it there
With this stuff you want to apply this so there are no air gaps... it works by deadening the panel making it resist the vibrations that transmit sound, you can also use it to seal small holes and stop air flow carrying noise, from our point of view large air bubbles could cause the sheet to lift when in water but you shouldn't have large air gaps... I wouldn't bridge holes either on a 4wd I see this as asking for trouble latter
If you have rust and apply this you trap it there
With this stuff you want to apply this so there are no air gaps... it works by deadening the panel making it resist the vibrations that transmit sound, you can also use it to seal small holes and stop air flow carrying noise, from our point of view large air bubbles could cause the sheet to lift when in water but you shouldn't have large air gaps... I wouldn't bridge holes either on a 4wd I see this as asking for trouble latter
Re: V8 Land Rover project
On a side note.. If ya happen to be a builder you end up with lots of flashing tape, comes in 200mm wide rolls and is much cheaper even when you double it up for thickness. Poor mans dynamat
Dont follow me. i'll get stuck and need a tow..
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Re: V8 Land Rover project
MS Droid is pretty handy, since pretty much nothing on my dashboard works now after changing to an LT230 I mounted a cheap phone holder to the dash in front of the speedo. The only thing is that gps and bluetooth use a lot of battery so I have a charger that stays in the rangy
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Well,
Only really been doing maintenance on the old girl. Did get the winch wired up then had ideas of doing Waikaia Bush Road over labour weekend but not a hope. Maybe with some ground anchors we might of had a small chance...
Gave some fellas a tow that had got over the snow while it was frozen, thawed out and they found it a bit tougher to get back
Highlift got a workout as well
So after a bit of a play in the snow we headed over the Nevis. Couldn't even take the old Woman range to get their, so went via the old clyde-cromwell road, came out at Bannockburn and headed up and over.
Then went up Eyre Creek
Only problem was my window wiper crapping out as I drove back into town... Burned through 80l of fuel.
Good weekend
Only really been doing maintenance on the old girl. Did get the winch wired up then had ideas of doing Waikaia Bush Road over labour weekend but not a hope. Maybe with some ground anchors we might of had a small chance...
Gave some fellas a tow that had got over the snow while it was frozen, thawed out and they found it a bit tougher to get back
Highlift got a workout as well
So after a bit of a play in the snow we headed over the Nevis. Couldn't even take the old Woman range to get their, so went via the old clyde-cromwell road, came out at Bannockburn and headed up and over.
Then went up Eyre Creek
Only problem was my window wiper crapping out as I drove back into town... Burned through 80l of fuel.
Good weekend
Re: V8 Land Rover project
I met you on the road at Athol as I was heading home from the long weekend, you were following a very muddy Datsun and maybe a cruiser? I figured you'd been up eyre creek. Anyway interesting about old man range, I am heading up from the bottom end this weekend for a nosey, I hope to get to shelter hut but not confident of getting right through yet. Glen
SWB V6 Paj with one or two mods
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Hi Pete, I work with the driver of the Nissan you helped rescue on the weekend , he is forever great full and was F--ked with out you. He was very embarrassed getting caught out like that as when he drove in he had no problems at all and was going on the instructions of his mate who lives local that they would have no trouble, just goes' to show you need to be prepared . He's off Thar shooting this weekend with all his recovery gear in the back and a second vehicle. Thanks for your effort and he owes you that BEER.
THAT MAN DESERVES A SPEIGHTS,
FITZY.
THAT MAN DESERVES A SPEIGHTS,
FITZY.
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Haha small world were you in ya mitzy? Had a newer and older Patrol and a little sj suzuki in convoy.
Need to replace an oil pipe to the oil cooler, leaking for some reason.
Waterblasted the truck inside and out today haha
No worries about ya mate Fitzy, reckon you should go wheeling with him and teach him a few lines tho. He was making it look hard
Need to replace an oil pipe to the oil cooler, leaking for some reason.
Waterblasted the truck inside and out today haha
No worries about ya mate Fitzy, reckon you should go wheeling with him and teach him a few lines tho. He was making it look hard
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Yea but I was in the Gen 4 so it doesn't stick out so much!
On Saturday we got over the Waikaia Bush road from Piano Flat to Shingle Creek, it was snowing as we left but knew we could turn back at any time, the weather never got any worse with just light snow and crud, took 3 vehicle 2.5 hrs, didn't go up from Shelter hut as the weather was rubbish & didn't want to tempt fate. Chains on all 4's the whole way, water holes very full so deep, many bonnet depth. Time to pull out the starter motor...... and radiator.....
Very little sign of where the dozer had been (thankfully). The odd tussock was not where it once was but nothing major , it was a bit hard to tell under the snow though!
On Saturday we got over the Waikaia Bush road from Piano Flat to Shingle Creek, it was snowing as we left but knew we could turn back at any time, the weather never got any worse with just light snow and crud, took 3 vehicle 2.5 hrs, didn't go up from Shelter hut as the weather was rubbish & didn't want to tempt fate. Chains on all 4's the whole way, water holes very full so deep, many bonnet depth. Time to pull out the starter motor...... and radiator.....
Very little sign of where the dozer had been (thankfully). The odd tussock was not where it once was but nothing major , it was a bit hard to tell under the snow though!
SWB V6 Paj with one or two mods
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Nice one looks like fun!
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Wedding truck!
Topless mode
Also the only truck to make it up the climb in the background.
Had my first full on breakdown the other day. Fortunately not on wedding day and only 50m from home. A capacitor had shorted out and was earthing the coil. It was on a small circuit I made to get the taco to read properly. It eventually went open circuit while I was fault finding and I noticed the rev counter was reading was buggered up and the rest is history.
Still need new springs all around and rear shocks, the ride is getting worse, eventually it will piss me off enough to fix it. Not bad considering all that stuff was from the donor truck and its been on the road for 5years now I think.
Valve guide seals are starting to go in the heads, bit smokey on the long downhill sections so it might be an excuse to finally get the spare heads off the shelf, port, plane and cc'd and get some extra ponies at the same time.
Changed diff oil the other day to find it in good condition and no shiny bits!
All & all going good.
Topless mode
Also the only truck to make it up the climb in the background.
Had my first full on breakdown the other day. Fortunately not on wedding day and only 50m from home. A capacitor had shorted out and was earthing the coil. It was on a small circuit I made to get the taco to read properly. It eventually went open circuit while I was fault finding and I noticed the rev counter was reading was buggered up and the rest is history.
Still need new springs all around and rear shocks, the ride is getting worse, eventually it will piss me off enough to fix it. Not bad considering all that stuff was from the donor truck and its been on the road for 5years now I think.
Valve guide seals are starting to go in the heads, bit smokey on the long downhill sections so it might be an excuse to finally get the spare heads off the shelf, port, plane and cc'd and get some extra ponies at the same time.
Changed diff oil the other day to find it in good condition and no shiny bits!
All & all going good.
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Looking good! (the landy aint bad either )
Did you ever install some soundproofing in the floor? Would like to block out my noisy transfercase a bit & looking at options.
Cheers
Clint
Did you ever install some soundproofing in the floor? Would like to block out my noisy transfercase a bit & looking at options.
Cheers
Clint
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640
If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640
If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Na, taking the roof off worked wonders tho so will probably start with the roof & hoodlining and go from there.
I think the way to go is fork out for the Dyna mat which will cost a bit which is why it's never happened! Also, the LR is a bit weird because you can't put it under the carpet because there ain't any so it's going to get hit with heaps of heat, dirt and water being under the truck which is part of the reason I want to get the good shit.
I think the way to go is fork out for the Dyna mat which will cost a bit which is why it's never happened! Also, the LR is a bit weird because you can't put it under the carpet because there ain't any so it's going to get hit with heaps of heat, dirt and water being under the truck which is part of the reason I want to get the good shit.
Re: V8 Land Rover project
I am currently looking at options for heat / sound insulation for the 110 at the moment too . The factory carpet/ insulation has long disappeared .
I am a little apprehensive about sticking dynamat or the like permenatly in place and covering up all the floor pan , tunnel screws and potienally hiding developing rust in the bulkhead .
Around the seat boxes would be ok I suppose .
My best idea is to stick the dynamat to some rubber van flooring material I have and effectively make removable insulation sections like the factory carpet sets . Can then just pull every thing out for Maintenance/ cleaning and have a reasonably hard wearing surface under foot .
I am a little apprehensive about sticking dynamat or the like permenatly in place and covering up all the floor pan , tunnel screws and potienally hiding developing rust in the bulkhead .
Around the seat boxes would be ok I suppose .
My best idea is to stick the dynamat to some rubber van flooring material I have and effectively make removable insulation sections like the factory carpet sets . Can then just pull every thing out for Maintenance/ cleaning and have a reasonably hard wearing surface under foot .
LR110 ..... LJ50 project
Chris.
Chris.
Re: V8 Land Rover project
I've been pondering the same thing for the 80, let us know what you come up with.UBZ wrote:I am currently looking at options for heat / sound insulation for the 110 at the moment too . The factory carpet/ insulation has long disappeared .
I am a little apprehensive about sticking dynamat or the like permenatly in place and covering up all the floor pan , tunnel screws and potienally hiding developing rust in the bulkhead .
Around the seat boxes would be ok I suppose .
My best idea is to stick the dynamat to some rubber van flooring material I have and effectively make removable insulation sections like the factory carpet sets . Can then just pull every thing out for Maintenance/ cleaning and have a reasonably hard wearing surface under foot .
-----------------------
Who knew Prados could fly?
Who knew Prados could fly?
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Finally bought some sound deadening. 6m roll 460mm wide for $165 to the door step off trademe.
Just did little trial on part of seat box tonight. Will rip out the whole seat box on Saturday.
Thought I'd take a few pics of this one. I'm not planning on sticking any to steel at this stage, only alloy.
Want to do entire seat box, floor, rear bulk head, doors and double layer the gearbox tunnel and I think that will pretty much shag the roll.
Just did little trial on part of seat box tonight. Will rip out the whole seat box on Saturday.
Thought I'd take a few pics of this one. I'm not planning on sticking any to steel at this stage, only alloy.
Want to do entire seat box, floor, rear bulk head, doors and double layer the gearbox tunnel and I think that will pretty much shag the roll.
Re: V8 Land Rover project
I need to get some of this now, have changed my plan. Have bought a new moulded marine carpet for the 80, and want to put stick stuff like this to it as a backing. are you going to glue it? let us know what the sound absorption's like.
-----------------------
Who knew Prados could fly?
Who knew Prados could fly?
Re: V8 Land Rover project
So this is the seatbox and underside of the floor all done. Also took it for a small test drive from Cromwell to the new place in Tauranga Noticeably better. Also managed to do the rear bulk head with the one roll and the gearbox tunnel got a couple of layers for good measure.
It seems to be handelling the underside of the truck fine in terms of heat and oil but I haven't hit it with the water blaster yet which is probably the only thing which would make a real mess of it.
Other than that, any joins it spooges out, kinda has the consistency of dried up chewing gum. I overlapped everything because I figured it would kinda deform and seal where the panels join more than if I had cut them short. Also less likely to peel off I figured.
Next up is a roof liner I think. Try reduce the tin can effect
It seems to be handelling the underside of the truck fine in terms of heat and oil but I haven't hit it with the water blaster yet which is probably the only thing which would make a real mess of it.
Other than that, any joins it spooges out, kinda has the consistency of dried up chewing gum. I overlapped everything because I figured it would kinda deform and seal where the panels join more than if I had cut them short. Also less likely to peel off I figured.
Next up is a roof liner I think. Try reduce the tin can effect
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Come with adhesive backing which seemed good
Re: V8 Land Rover project
got a link to the TM listing?
-----------------------
Who knew Prados could fly?
Who knew Prados could fly?
Re: V8 Land Rover project
It was a full roll of this
https://www.trademe.co.nz/1345630417
https://www.trademe.co.nz/1345630417
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Hey fellas,
So I’ve moved to Tauranga and need recommendations for a place that sells scrap metal.
In Dunnerz there was a place you could just wander into and they had all there scrap organised so you could pick what ya wanted and pay by the kg.
Anywhere like that in Tauranga?
I need some 6mm plate to beef up the panhard rod mounts on the diff. The original holes through the diff are a bit flogged and are causing a death wobble.
Cheers
So I’ve moved to Tauranga and need recommendations for a place that sells scrap metal.
In Dunnerz there was a place you could just wander into and they had all there scrap organised so you could pick what ya wanted and pay by the kg.
Anywhere like that in Tauranga?
I need some 6mm plate to beef up the panhard rod mounts on the diff. The original holes through the diff are a bit flogged and are causing a death wobble.
Cheers
Re: V8 Land Rover project
Also after recommendations on a wof place in Tauranga as well. I like a smaller garage that remembers the truck and can actually spot something wrong. Not interested in VTNZ.
Cheers
Cheers