[LN65] 2L-T Suggestions

[downhillnz]

Hi All,

First real "Help Me" post on here.

The Road So Far...

I've recently acquired an LN65 King Cab with a recently rebuilt 2L-TE motor that has had a manual pump conversion (Woo-hoo).
Its sitting on a fresh set of Micky T 35s. Apart from the mud on the inside its pretty well standard.

I'm looking for some ideas on how to make some easy power out of it to make the 35s actually turn in the mud. What I have on the cards so far:

2.5 Inch Exhaust from Turbo back, with probably one resonator.
Water2Air intercooler set up. I've had good experiences with these in the past and it needs an intercooler.
Shackle lift with some extented shocks. Do I need to do anything else while lifting it, or is there anything suggested to do while I'm there. (I.E: Shock steering damper, High steer)
Pump tuning to suit the mods, EGT and boost to watch and see what its up to.


So the major thing I don't really know about with the Yotas. What the hell do I do with the shitty Toyota turbo and what is the most simple way of feeding it a good amount of air. Aiming for a target boost of between 20-30PSI with as little lag as I can get away with.

Slap me where needed as this is my first Live axle truck.

[derk]

those things don't make power mate, they are an old tiny little pop pop diesel engine that does just that, you can throw money and time at it for small gains, to get power out of the truck you need to re-power it with something that has the HP and torque output that you are looking for and you wont look back

[sirLachlan]

A 2l is 80 hp . A 2lt is 89 Hp . . Even if you got 30 % more power out of it you won't have 100 hp at the wheels .
There is no such thing as a turbo that doesn't have lag and is worth pushing 30 psi that suits a 2.4 diesel

Wouldn't bother

Get some 7:1 diff's lol

[mudsurfv6]

1UZ

[Smurf]

Get the lowest ratio diffs you can, or fit dual transfers to get better torque at the wheels. And then drive it to suit the power you still won't have. Just like my 2L-TE Prado

[Pj_Marsh]

Next thing up is the 3.0 diesels, 5l, which have a pretty good rep. Or a 5l-e if you can find it

[Petemcc]

Up the boost to between 12 and 15 by spacing out the waste gate actuator. Then wind up the fuel and play with the boost compensator. Won't be a power house but will go much better.

I wouldn't go much higher than that with The standard turbo

[BlakeNZ]

I'm not saying that pushing 20-30psi on an engine that is prone to cracking heads is foolhardy, but I'm thinking it REALLY LOUDLY!

[downhillnz]

A 2l is 80 hp . A 2lt is 89 Hp . . Even if you got 30 % more power out of it you won't have 100 hp at the wheels .
There is no such thing as a turbo that doesn't have lag and is worth pushing 30 psi that suits a 2.4 diesel

Wouldn't bother

Get some 7:1 diff's lol

The reason I'm not so convinced on that statement is more because I had prior to this, a 4JB1 in a similar weighted Mu that I had 5PSI under load at 1000RPM and held 20PSI to 4k where the governor was set to. But that was a hybrid turbo with the correct size housings for the job. That also being said it made over 120HP atw along with monster amounts of torque from the early boost.

Obviously this is still a wee 2.4 and the power isn't going to be massive. But it is nice and light to its advantage

[Crash bandicoot]

Big cooling system .....get an intercooler on it....... blank off the egr .......stick a pyro gauge in it and get a ball bearing Garrett or the likes on it and tweak the fuel till the pyro starts touching 650-700 degrees pre turbo....

Mate has a 2Lte surf with mech pump and yes the turbo is quite small compared to the likes of Nissans TD Isuzu's 4j and mitsi's 4d and 4 m motors.

But I don't see how (with the right mods )it can't make the sorta power you see from other modified diesels... My old mistral for one.

It will be limited by fuel flow if it still has the factory plunger in the pump and I'd probably be careful as I'm not sure the heads would take the sort of pressure and temp that a TD or the likes can handle.

[tweake]

But that was a hybrid turbo with the correct size housings for the job. That also being said it made over 120HP atw along with monster amounts of torque from the early boost.

well thats only 90kw. a stock standard 1kz has more than that.

realistically 20-30lb boost is a waste simply because you will never be able to pour enough fuel in to make use of that air flow.
boost on its own doesn't make power.

with the 2lte, if its got a 3l head then it may last a bit. original head will not last long at high power levels.
stock turbo, 15 boost, intercooled, oil cooler, then tune up the pump and see how much power you can get out of it and see how long it lasts.
you could fit better turbo but cost wise probably better to either go 5l or even better a 1kz.
a 1kz with decent turbo and intercooling can make some good power.

[DieselBoy]

My vote is just to disconnect the waste gate and turn the max fuel screw up so it's just getting enough fuel to make 15psi boost and draw the line there. If you disconnect the waste gate it should be hard to over fuel it and melt the pistons.

The most noticeable gain from a pump tweak will be adjusting the off boost fuel compensator. That's where you get your low down power from and reduced lag. Adjust this until it's making the amount of smoke off the line at the traffic lights you can live with

Basic idea of that adjustment is that the more fuel you can dump in early, means the more exhaust gas that can be produced early, which inturn drives the turbine up to pressure sooner reducing lag.

Draw back is black smoke until turbo comes up to pressure.

Much more than that with a 2LT and ya probably asking for trouble

Just remember, unlike a petrol engine, more fuel in a diesel = more heat. A Diesel will also take all the air you can give it. What you will find is that you can't give it enough fuel to make the turbo pump that air. So your injector pump and the fuel It can deliver is usually where you limit lies

[tweake]

My vote is just to disconnect the waste gate and turn the max fuel screw up so it's just getting enough fuel to make 15psi boost and draw the line there.

if you did that you would have to severely reduce fuel to be able to limit the boost to 15lb.
when my boost reg fell to bits (which made the wastegate not work), boost hit 20 lb at about 1/4 throttle and i was having to baby it up the last rise to home.

[Crash bandicoot]

My vote is just to disconnect the waste gate and turn the max fuel screw up so it's just getting enough fuel to make 15psi boost and draw the line there.

if you did that you would have to severely reduce fuel to be able to limit the boost to 15lb.
when my boost reg fell to bits (which made the wastegate not work), boost hit 20 lb at about 1/4 throttle and i was having to baby it up the last rise to home.

You mean to tell us you didn't give the loud pedal a stab briefly to see what it could really do?

[tweake]

My vote is just to disconnect the waste gate and turn the max fuel screw up so it's just getting enough fuel to make 15psi boost and draw the line there.

if you did that you would have to severely reduce fuel to be able to limit the boost to 15lb.
when my boost reg fell to bits (which made the wastegate not work), boost hit 20 lb at about 1/4 throttle and i was having to baby it up the last rise to home.

You mean to tell us you didn't give the loud pedal a stab briefly to see what it could really do?

those turbo's don't last long at those boost levels. after 15psi they are just a heater.
it also didn't go any faster. boost on its own makes bugger all difference.

if you got the original 2lt boost comp, it will reduce fuel at high boost anyway. mine doesn't have boost comp on it yet. one day i'll fit it and wind the fuel up some more.

[downhillnz]

if you did that you would have to severely reduce fuel to be able to limit the boost to 15lb.
when my boost reg fell to bits (which made the wastegate not work), boost hit 20 lb at about 1/4 throttle and i was having to baby it up the last rise to home.

You mean to tell us you didn't give the loud pedal a stab briefly to see what it could really do?

those turbo's don't last long at those boost levels. after 15psi they are just a heater.
it also didn't go any faster. boost on its own makes bugger all difference.

if you got the original 2lt boost comp, it will reduce fuel at high boost anyway. mine doesn't have boost comp on it yet. one day i'll fit it and wind the fuel up some more.

And this is why I was asking for suggestions on what turbo to use.

Realistic: If I wanted to chase a top end figure KW figure I would, But we all know that number is only good for measuring against whatever you mate has in his pants. I am aiming for low down torque without a motor swap.

I don't see the need to pull out a motor that has barely been run in to swap it out for an 'unknown' 5L which has a good chance of blowing its shit at the site of boost, or a 1KZ that still needs a mechanical pump attached. Its just not cost effective

This was aiming to be a "How do I make more power out of the log that I have, not suggestions of what could go in there. If I wanted that I would put the RB25 that is sitting in my track car in there. Boom 400HP.

[derk]

not sure exactualy where your expectations are for what you want to get out of the engine, the 2lte always has and always will be one of Toyotas archillies heel engines, they don't perform well and they have always been a less than reliable engine with cylinder head failures, throwing any money at the engine isn't really a wise economic decision and wont likely give you what you want, if you want more torque and don't want to change the engine get rid of the 35" Mickeys and put a tyre on it that'll take you back to factory gearing or find some lower ratio diffs or R&P's for it, the 2lte engine is at the bottom of the food chain and always will be that's how Mr Toyota made them

[tweake]

if you really want to persist with it,
fit a 3l cam, make an adjustable cam pulley.
make a better exhaust manifold. turbo not sure on, theres a few people who have had various garrets etc but never heard of anything really designed just for that engine. anything you put on is going to be a bit of a guess. some of the turbo builders may have something close enough.
then wind up the fuel until you hit max temps.
port match the manifold, open up the inlet manifold entrance a bit.
i suggest egt, water temp, inlet air and afr gauges. and a datalogger.

forget low down torque, those engines are just not made for it. let it rev and keep the torque up high.

[Crash bandicoot]

at the end of the day. it is still only a 2.4 litre 4 cylinder with a bore size equal to stroke, so it will never make the sort of power or torque you'd see from the 2.7 or 3.2 td/qd or the isuzu 4jb1 2.8 or the 4m40 or even the 4d56-t for that matter.(4d56 =better design)

it simply will never compete (even if you boosted it over fueled it intercooled it what ever) with a soccer mum in a QD32 eti Rm3-r terrano late for the school run.

common sense would dictate that ya sell the engine to some bloke restoring a LN56/65 who wants a genuine 2.4 to go in his ute and buy something that is going to make it worth while.

I mean even the 5L which superceded the 2/3L's was still down 20 odd kw on the TD27 and 40 odd kw down on the 3.2.

[tweake]

I mean even the 5L which superceded the 2/3L's was still down 20 odd kw on the TD27 and 40 odd kw down on the 3.2.

check your fiqures, i think your comparing atmo 5l to turbo td27t and qd32t.

5l has 5-10 more kw than atmo td27 and is only a few off qd32.

[Crash bandicoot]

5L-Te....91kw. Wow

[Crash bandicoot]

And no. It still has 5 less then my 2.7 mistral did standard.

[tweake]

And no. It still has 5 less then my 2.7 mistral did standard.

either your mistral was turbo or BS.

[BlakeNZ]

yes, he is talking about TD27 and QD31 TURBOCHARGED motors. The non turbos are pretty slow from most accounts.

[tweake]

yes, he is talking about TD27 and QD31 TURBOCHARGED motors. The non turbos are pretty slow from most accounts.

exactly, which is a complete wank. you can't compare one brands atmo engine to another turbo engine.

[downhillnz]

yes, he is talking about TD27 and QD31 TURBOCHARGED motors. The non turbos are pretty slow from most accounts.

exactly, which is a complete wank. you can't compare one brands atmo engine to another turbo engine.

I've driven both. The 5L was a slug, it may have more power on paper but the td27 was more torquey. And you drive with the torque not the hp number.

It could have been the 5L that i had driven too, but I was far from impressed.

[tweake]

I've driven both. The 5L was a slug, it may have more power on paper but the td27 was more torquey. And you drive with the torque not the hp number.

It could have been the 5L that i had driven too, but I was far from impressed.

could well have been just that one. i've had it with identical work vehicles and ones is a lot better than the other.
the other thing is gear ratios make a big impact and with such gutless engines weight makes a big impact on performance.

[ln100matt]

Check out this thread

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ideas- ... te.680759/

Its for the 2lte with the electronic pump but still has a lot of good info. Look like he gets good power and reliability. Fair bit of work though.

[cornflake]

i red all this and was like no solution y dont u just get a 4age with a big turbo will give u power u want