calling 1KZTE (spec. kzn185) gurus

[fh2014]

real gurus no internet mechanics please.. just kidding isnt that why we all here?

some may remember me from the grandpa spec terrano running 30psi and before that another older manual terrano that managed to blow the 5spd and front diff in one swing

now I have come across a kzn185 200kms cheep cheep, owner a bit slack on servicing and it a little tlc, possible leaking rear main seal woo

dont know much about them but quick searching says exhaust and cooling (alot on cracked heads in the 130's) need to be first priority - easy

my questions: (not going to v8 it either I prefer the diesel)

1.but has anyone tinkered with different turbos, pumps, intakes etc ? i hear the pumps are electronic and cut out if the boost goes up can this be overcome or do i need to go manual pump
2. do the factory turbos like being wound up or should i go aftermarket
3. do these motors throw faults if the egr is completely removed
4. it needs the timing belt done - can do but any toyota tools or tips required for job
5. how much power will kill the auto box

going to install the usual gauges and get some baselines. a bit worried about the thermal surging the motor seems to get from the bottom mounted thermostat so will address that too.

thanks for reading and for your time heres how you write off a brand new D-MAX; have a 'lady of the night' fall asleep at the wheel on k. rd and cross head on into you everyone was alright

[BlakeNZ]

the auto trans are very good. If yours still has cleanish oil, if you add a trans cooler to it, then it will most likely survive anything the 1kz can throw at it. In my opinion, the software influencing down shifts etc is superior in the toyota 185 surfs, compared to the nissan autos behind the TD27 turbos.

[kbushnz]

1.but has anyone tinkered with different turbos, pumps, intakes etc ? i hear the pumps are electronic and cut out if the boost goes up can this be overcome or do i need to go manual pump
Kaiapoi repowers are the ones to talk to, they have a little black box which talks to ECU. Exhaust is restrictive from the turbo back .
2. do the factory turbos like being wound up or should i go aftermarket
Don't like much past 20psi. Thats where they run out of puff... You can get them tweaked rebuilt By Steve Murch. $$$
3. do these motors throw faults if the egr is completely removed
Some do and some dont, you can block off the ports but leave the vacuum solenoids connected so the ECU thinks they are there.
4. it needs the timing belt done - can do but any toyota tools or tips required for job
Cam belt easy as to do....Plenty of manuals online you can download.
5. how much power will kill the auto box
Not sure. but they run them behind the V8 lexus ok...and worked supras.

Nathan Hammond at Kaiapoi Repowers is the man to talk all things 1KZTE

[tweake]

1.but has anyone tinkered with different turbos, pumps, intakes etc ? i hear the pumps are electronic and cut out if the boost goes up can this be overcome or do i need to go manual pump
2. do the factory turbos like being wound up or should i go aftermarket
3. do these motors throw faults if the egr is completely removed
4. it needs the timing belt done - can do but any toyota tools or tips required for job
5. how much power will kill the auto box

going to install the usual gauges and get some baselines. a bit worried about the thermal surging the motor seems to get from the bottom mounted thermostat so will address that too.

will need boost cut defeater as they have a 15psi overboost cutout.
there are chips around for the ecu to increase fueling. tho there is other rough ways of doing it.

main thing to ensure is cooling. make sure radiator is good, a good intercooler setup, fit a separate trans oil cooler as big as you can fit.
exhaust helps with that a lot. they push the egt limits in stock form so you really need to make some safety margin before cranking up the fuel.
there is also the inlet manifold mod to help with air distribution across the cylinders.

thermal surging ?
the bottom mounted thermostat actually stops that. if you want to try and reduce the thermo bounce further then try dual thermostats. there is a few around that have two thermostats in the one thermostat. small part opens first to allow gradual warming up before main one opens.

[fh2014]

blakeNZ - totally agree. much nicer auto than was in the terrano

kbushnz - great info thanks for sharing.. looks like im talking going to be ringing nathan sometime soon. see that name in a lot of threads. same goes for steve murch - these two must be very busy men

tweake - guess i'll see how far the chip/ecu route can take me but if i need more please elaborate on the 'other ways' to get more fuel. i will make sure she stays warm and warm only. now searching for inlet manifold mod

marvellous feedback, that

[zed]

1.but has anyone tinkered with different turbos, pumps, intakes etc ? i hear the pumps are electronic and cut out if the boost goes up can this be overcome or do i need to go manual pump
2. do the factory turbos like being wound up or should i go aftermarket
3. do these motors throw faults if the egr is completely removed
4. it needs the timing belt done - can do but any toyota tools or tips required for job
5. how much power will kill the auto

1. Factory boost cut is 13.8psi at the manifold pressure sensor. Can use a boost cut defeater to make the ecu think it's still getting 13.8 at 20psi, but
2. 20 psi is the limit on factory turbo they're designed for low/mid not top end. Pump will flow enough fuel for 20 psi but not as much as a manual pump, but a lot cheaper lol
3. Blank off, leave it all plugged it but! Take the manifold and intercooler etc off and soak them, to remove all the crud. You'll be surprised at how much crap is in there. While you're at it remove the egr pipe and chuck it into a catch can with a breather. Note that the intercooled manifold flows much more evenly to each pot than the non intercooled - which do you have?
4. Do the cam seal and water pump and tensioner at the same time. Don't use a factory toyota wp because they leak. Ryco one is fine from ripco. Easy as to do just line up the time marks before you take belt off. Take a photo with your phone make extra care to get the diesel pump right.
5. It's the same basic box as in the lexus and pighorn etc (albeit with some different internals) they're pretty robust. Towed a 3t Trailer behind mine for years no issues. MAKE SURE you run a decent Trans cooler and service it tho. Do not use the cooler at the bottom of the rad at all.

Other: factory yota lower temp thermostat and factory yota coolant. Also put the KZJ95 playdoh radiator in it (thicker and more cores)
Run an egt meter (I use auber from USA pretty cheap but bang on accurate and can set a warning light/alarm easy as) so you KNOW what is actually happening inside your motor.
Also if you fry a head, put the long valve genuine head on if it's a keeper. Thicker in the casting.

It must must must have an exhaust on it. Throw away everything from the turbo back and fit a better dump pipe and 3" all the way. Mild steel as Diesels don't need stainless. I ran mine with a 3" and just a big coby...love that turb whistle

My 2c!

[tweake]

don't forget to over haul the fan. you can tweak the thermostat on that so it comes on earlier.
most important is the shroud, make sure its intact.

i

[zed]

don't forget to over haul the fan. you can tweak the thermostat on that so it comes on earlier.
most important is the shroud, make sure its intact.

i

+1

[tweake]

now searching for inlet manifold mod

http://www.are.com.au/Inter/4x4%20Plennums.htm

[fh2014]

Awesome

found a page detailing the importance of the fan clutch and how to refill. Also good info on the prado radiator will def do that. egt gauge already ordered. It's Non intercooled model, will take a look at the flow of the intake when I get it opened up.im going to put a front mount on similar to how I did the terrano. 3" exhaust getting drawn up. Not sure on dump pipe yet as might be throwing that ct12b out

[fh2014]

after getting under the bonnet tonight and seeing that lame intake manifold, I thought maybe I could flip it.

then found this guy has already had the same idea. front mount will look almost exactly the same im picking.

here: http://www.4wdaction.com.au/_phpBB/view ... 8#p1798087

[sirLachlan]

Do none of you consider that a lower temp thermostat makes the whole cooling system less efficient? And makes less power ?

[fh2014]

Do none of you consider that a lower temp thermostat makes the whole cooling system less efficient? And makes less power ?

do elaborate
they use lower temp themostats in hotter climates.
Id consider upping the power output of a motor is going to generate more heat. hotter climate under the hood

[kbushnz]

Personally putting in a lower thermostat is not going to solve or prevent overheating issues if the rest of the system is not upto the task.
Good radiator, good viscous fan, good pump, clean system and decent coolant are what you want.
As they need to shed the heat to allow cooler fluids into the engine by the thermostat.
I am still running the 82 or 86 factory thermostat and have no issues with getting hot, and my radiator is on the back.....

[fh2014]

cooling plans for this one include thicker rad, new pipes, new pump, isolate trans cooler, new thermostat, refill and adjust fan clutch, new fluids.

[Crash bandicoot]

Colder the better. When you start feeding extra fuel into it the egts will shoot up under load anyway . you want it running at normal temperature when it is working its hardest.

[BlakeNZ]

I see that you edited your original post to make it clear that the "lady of the night" was not driving your D-max, but rather she crashed into you... wise move. It was a little ambiguous originally

[fh2014]

I see that you edited your original post to make it clear that the "lady of the night" was not driving your D-max, but rather she crashed into you... wise move. It was a little ambiguous originally

yea i reread it and it looked like I had had a lady of the night, and subseqently fallen asleep at the wheel.

the real story was that a lady of the night fell asleep at the wheel after a big night, and drifted head on into me, at midday

[tweake]

Colder the better. When you start feeding extra fuel into it the egts will shoot up under load anyway . you want it running at normal temperature when it is working its hardest.

yes/no.
there is some advantages to running an engine hot. having the cooling system run hot increases heat rejection so the cooling system handles a bit less heat. there is also combustion advantages.
the problem with running it at normal temp when engine is at max performance is it runs to cold during normal use.
ideally you want a cooling system that can dissipate the heat quick enough to keep consistent temp. that way you can run high temp all the time without it over heating. but thats difficult to do. hence there is a bit of headroom built in ie normal running 88c with max temp of +100c.

one thing thats seams to be rarely done with 1kz is engine oil coolers. stock oil cooler has the same problem as the trans cooler, your heating up the coolant your trying to cool the engine with. increasing the oil cooling takes some of the load of the water cooling system.

[derk]

watch your wallet and your expectations mate, the 1kzte is a 97kw engine you can throw thousand and thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of research and labour at it and if your lucky make 30%-50% gains which = net 130kw to 150kw which is pretty low down on the scale of performance, you could get a lot more elsewhere for your hard earnt money

[fh2014]

watch your wallet and your expectations mate, the 1kzte is a 97kw engine you can throw thousand and thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of research and labour at it and if your lucky make 30%-50% gains which = net 130kw to 150kw which is pretty low down on the scale of performance, you could get a lot more elsewhere for your hard earnt money

cheers mate, not going to go crazy with this one. would rather it be a reliable weekend warrior. but I just cant drive around on a stock tune either

will probably start something in builds section. I'd be happy with 16-18psi on the standard turbo, and fuel up to match - by dicking around with pump electrics. of course the thing has done 200kms and hasnt seen a decent service that whole time so its getting its biggest birthday ever thanks to me. I want it do to another 200kms. compression test today revealed a very healthy inside (less than 10psi diff between all 4) which is good

gauges 1st, cooling 2nd, exhaust 3rd, intercool 4th etc etc

[Crash bandicoot]

watch your wallet and your expectations mate, the 1kzte is a 97kw engine you can throw thousand and thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of research and labour at it and if your lucky make 30%-50% gains which = net 130kw to 150kw which is pretty low down on the scale of performance, you could get a lot more elsewhere for your hard earnt money

Never new that...thought the 1kz would have been up around the 120-130/mark from factory

[derk]

^^^ I never knew that either I looked it up on google