Oil catch can question

[J_Dub]

Just cleaned intake and doing egr and catch can..
Why do I need a feed back to intake? Why can't I just have line from rocker cover to catch can, have an oil return line at the bottom of the tank and plug the outlet of the catch can, but the catch can has a breather with filter so that releases the pressure and clean air into the atmosphere??

Jared

[dvk-kp]

Hey, I’ve been doing research on the same thing for my 1KD hilux. Have a look at this:

https://www.berrimadiesel.com/oil-catch-cans

And

https://www.baileysdiesel.com/shop/univ ... es-models/

I’m going to get one for my truck and then clean the intake etc and hopefully it stays mint, pretty sure both of these ones don’t feed back into the intake.

Just my 2c

[J_Dub]

Cheers mate. These do feed back into the intake but they have an internal replaceable filter so that's where they claim to only put clean air back into the intake. They are on TradeMe for $130

[tweake]

feed back to intake is for emissions. Aussies can get done for disabling emissions and that includes the breather.

keep in mind its not air going to the intake but exhaust gas ie egr. thats one thing that screws with emissions systems, you end up with excessive egr going in due to large amounts of blowby. not uncommon on a old motor especially a diesel at idle.

oil return to sump is good, just put a one way valve on it. gas pressure will keep it closed but it will drain into sump when you shut off engine.
with provents you have to rig up something to hold the oil. typically a fat hose on the drain outlet works ok. they are really meant to be drained back to sump.

[J_Dub]

Thanks tweake.
Can't say I thought of the one way valve but I'm not sure it's entirely a must???
What are your reasons for that.

So I am doing egr blank off aswell. I'm thinking I'm going to try and see how it goes by having drain back to sump into the factory return, these already have a return on the dipstick. And having no return back to intake and just pressure relieved via atmosphere via a filter... See how that goes..

[tweake]

Thanks tweake.
Can't say I thought of the one way valve but I'm not sure it's entirely a must???
What are your reasons for that.

depends on filter arrangement, it can blow back up the drain and straight out into the intake (or open air).
the reverse flow can also screw up how the filter works and oil drains. it depends a bit on the design.
i can't remember which why the filter is on the provent. i think its set up as a coalescing filter so the oil drain and the outlet are paired. so any gas flow up the drain goes straight to the outlet. would have to check to confirm tho.

[J_Dub]

Sounds good.
I work in the hydraulics industry, can I buy an inline 1 way Valve to fit inline with the return hose?

[UBZ]

The factory oil seperator cyclone system on the landrover 2.25 turbo diesel Drians back to the sump without the use of a one way valve .

But is plumbed in below the oil line in the sump to prevent sump pressurisation or oil blow back up the drain line . Seeems to work ok .

[J_Dub]

Cheers Chris.

I've just gone and bought a can that has an internal filter, a special pressure relief cap if for some reason pressure is increased also. The pighorn has a factory return anyway, but my thinking is, now I am going to return back to intake now I have a can with internal filter, this should be the easiest route with less resistance, I don't see why the return line should add any pressure to sump and as it's being plumbed to the factory return it shouldn't change anything..

[tweake]

if the filter gets clogged up up it will increase sump pressure and cause oil leaks.
i had water in the catch can which gelled the oil, blocked the filter up and the turbo would leak oil out the exhaust.
make sure you don't use a small hose and the catch can fittings are big enough. a lot of them come with small petrol sized ones not diesel size.

[J_Dub]

Using 5/8 hose. But my drain line is only 3/8. I'm still unsure if I should have a return straight back to sump or a return to a separate can or tank that's easily removed and abled to be emptied back into crank case.. just unsure if I'll be adding unwanted pressure to sump

[J_Dub]

Just an update for future reference 96 bighorn 3.1 efi diesel
Intake all professionally cleaned, egr deleted and catch can fitted.
Finished today and went for a blat.
Now I wasn't expecting anything specific as far as power gains go as it's a mint low k truck and drives wl anyway, very responsive and boosts well.
I done this for added reliability and longevity etc etc..
Runs mint, starts very easy now where as before would have to crank over a few times before firing.. and no more puff of white smoke on start up...
And got the catch can draining into a clear note just for now to gauge how much oil if any is blowing by...
The good thing is by removing the two hoses off the egr and simply blanking them I still have 4wd.. all the reading I've done and questions I've asked have led me to believe I need to run new vacuum hoses for the front add system but the front wheel drive is still being activated so it's all good...

[dvk-kp]

What sort truck/engine is this on?

[J_Dub]

Haha that might help.
96 Bighorn 3.1 efi diesel