Hi
Well if you rear the last post about red toy etc you will see why the questions .
Anyway on a standard lux are the spring purches level , ie can I use that as the ref point when mounting then up for the correct castor angle .
How the #$#$ do you get the king pin cones out to get the steering arm off ? I am down to taking it to work and heating it up with the gas and if that does not work while I am there gas it off . Grrr .
Lastly Pinion bearing adjustment . My rear axle has about 5mm end float on the output shaft . Can the pinion bearings be adjusted to take this out ? Had the center out but never a pinion shaft . All I want to do is run the zuk for a few weeks to see if all is well then I plan to rebuild the diffs , ie new bearings etc . Can it wait ?
Cheers
Chris
Toyota axle Q's
I'm pretty sure they are close enough to level to use as a reference. ask a good wheel alignment shop before you cut anything, they should be able to help with correct angles etc...
The 4 cone washers in the steering arms are normally a bitch - put the nut back on, so its slightly higher than the stud, then use a brass drift (piece of rod) and beat the shit out of the top of the stud - they will pop out. The nut stops it slying up at speed and smacking you in the eye, and also helps stop the drift slipping off the top of the stud. Using brass stops you damaging the stud and nut too much.
I think they have a spacer or crush tube in them to sort the end float... if you are going to rebuild it then leave it for now - it'll probably howl like a dog if its that worn, but shouldn't fly apart, as long as theres no major slop in the bearing. make sure the pinion nut is done up tight on the flange...
Hope that helps
Steve
The 4 cone washers in the steering arms are normally a bitch - put the nut back on, so its slightly higher than the stud, then use a brass drift (piece of rod) and beat the shit out of the top of the stud - they will pop out. The nut stops it slying up at speed and smacking you in the eye, and also helps stop the drift slipping off the top of the stud. Using brass stops you damaging the stud and nut too much.
I think they have a spacer or crush tube in them to sort the end float... if you are going to rebuild it then leave it for now - it'll probably howl like a dog if its that worn, but shouldn't fly apart, as long as theres no major slop in the bearing. make sure the pinion nut is done up tight on the flange...
Hope that helps
Steve
oh, one more thing having just seen what you have done to the tube - interesting
Better you than me... although I have another front axle housing here if it all turns to custard...
The spring perches are not level with each other... the drivers side one (the one on the side of the diff bulb) is higher - so don't try and re-weld them using those as a ref or nothing will line up. I believe, as I said, they are in the same plane and should be parallel, but just not at the same height (does that make sense?)
Steve

The spring perches are not level with each other... the drivers side one (the one on the side of the diff bulb) is higher - so don't try and re-weld them using those as a ref or nothing will line up. I believe, as I said, they are in the same plane and should be parallel, but just not at the same height (does that make sense?)
Steve
yea
the king pin cone washers are a breeze to get off, turn the wheel out at full lock loosen all the nuts but leave them on a couple of turns, you now have access to the side of the steering arm which you HIT with a hammer(preferably brass or copper) possibly a few times, this shocks the whole arm cracking the taper lock of the washers.
as for the diff housing, i have the empty housing from an '82' i think, lux left over from the beam i got off De-ranged ( cheers dude)completely bare sitting at my place that im doing nothing with if you want it mate,, cost you ohhh,,, ahhhh bout,,,,6 beers
... or free if you cant afford the beer
hehehe. if you want it man give me a ring,,027 2705895.
as for the diff housing, i have the empty housing from an '82' i think, lux left over from the beam i got off De-ranged ( cheers dude)completely bare sitting at my place that im doing nothing with if you want it mate,, cost you ohhh,,, ahhhh bout,,,,6 beers


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Hi
I had read somewhere bash the studs , guess it was not hard enough . anyway its cut now , was just a pain with the cross arm in the way .
Being a trailer queen i will go with the spring purch is flat , unless I find out otherwise .
Thanks for the offer of the diff head also will see how it runs I think . I have another set of axles here , got before cuting this one just in case , but its rear diff has been welded I believe and they look to be worse that this pair , ie all rusty on the outside .
I can tell you that the axle tube is thicker than i though and took me about an hour to cut into three bits by hand . Just hope I got it back together ok .
Should we start a poll for how long it will last ? Lets say hours of operation . Any takers for a ride first time out ???
Thanks for the help
Chris
I had read somewhere bash the studs , guess it was not hard enough . anyway its cut now , was just a pain with the cross arm in the way .
Being a trailer queen i will go with the spring purch is flat , unless I find out otherwise .
Thanks for the offer of the diff head also will see how it runs I think . I have another set of axles here , got before cuting this one just in case , but its rear diff has been welded I believe and they look to be worse that this pair , ie all rusty on the outside .
I can tell you that the axle tube is thicker than i though and took me about an hour to cut into three bits by hand . Just hope I got it back together ok .
Should we start a poll for how long it will last ? Lets say hours of operation . Any takers for a ride first time out ???
Thanks for the help
Chris