I'm not grumbling but the front of the surf is (LN61 IFS).
Not long ago I noticed a bit of a grumble/rumble/gristly sound in the front. Its got worse and worse and I've started to narrow it down.
It happens when I have it in 4x4 and/or when I have the hubs engaged.
4x4 works fine. Noise is less under power, worse when no power applied.
I initially thought it was the front right hub but I took them both apart and they were working ok but I cleaned them out and regreased any way.
Its got to be some where between the inner hub and the transfercase.
When in 2wd its fine. Its only when the front diff is turning that it shows up, weather turning by the engine (by putting it in 4x4) or by the wheels (by putting the hubs in).
Thing is its not regular. I can start out and its not there, either I'll get about 100m along and it will start or I can start it on demand by driving one of the wheels up a bump. If I continue to drive it may or may not lessen or even go away for a bit.
Its a real noticable noise, quite severe and I can feel it through the floor.
Almost sounds like something rubbing or stuck. I checked underneath and nothing externally obvious. Were some stone in wrong places but removed and no difference.
Suspect bearing?? When I hit a bump it would change the angle of load and triggger it off???
Before I owned it it had little 4x4 use. I need to check the front diff oil, I know there is at least some in there as there is a slight weep at a join.
Grumble
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mike
- Last minute Mike
- Posts: 3545
- Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2002 12:00 pm
- Location: Christchurch - The place I'd like to be
never fear help is near 
This is a CV shaft removable job. When you take the drive shafts out they slot through to the free wheeling hub. All they run on inside the actual hub is bronze bushes. There is no way to grease these so you need to pull the half shaft out, clean out (mud and shit will have got in there past the seal) the hole, i used a rag pushed through with a screw driver. then you need to pack as much grease as you can in the hole and around the shaft and get the half shaft back in. All thats happening is its binding up due to no lubrication. When driving over a bump it sets it off, starts it vibrating.
While youve pulled the half shafts (CV's) you might want to check your boots as well, no point doing same job twice. also check the splines on the end of the hubs, make sure they are ok (free wheeling hub end) as mine was worn and stripped in the drive flange.
easiest way i found to remove cv's was just to unbolt top A arm (4 small bolts) put a jack in between, drop the steering ball joint and that makes life nice and easy.
So in essence its not a big problem ie not major mechanical, but it isnt just a simple fix, just time consuming.
Mike
P.S you want to get a locker in that front diff before you blow it Surf IFS diffs are just to weak to do any real 4wding. A locker moves the stresses to the CV's which are cheaper and easier to fix
This is a CV shaft removable job. When you take the drive shafts out they slot through to the free wheeling hub. All they run on inside the actual hub is bronze bushes. There is no way to grease these so you need to pull the half shaft out, clean out (mud and shit will have got in there past the seal) the hole, i used a rag pushed through with a screw driver. then you need to pack as much grease as you can in the hole and around the shaft and get the half shaft back in. All thats happening is its binding up due to no lubrication. When driving over a bump it sets it off, starts it vibrating.
While youve pulled the half shafts (CV's) you might want to check your boots as well, no point doing same job twice. also check the splines on the end of the hubs, make sure they are ok (free wheeling hub end) as mine was worn and stripped in the drive flange.
easiest way i found to remove cv's was just to unbolt top A arm (4 small bolts) put a jack in between, drop the steering ball joint and that makes life nice and easy.
So in essence its not a big problem ie not major mechanical, but it isnt just a simple fix, just time consuming.
Mike
P.S you want to get a locker in that front diff before you blow it
Surf IFS diffs are just to weak to do any real 4wding. A locker moves the stresses to the CV's which are cheaper and easier to fix
Last edited by mike on Thu Feb 15, 2007 11:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
1973 SWB Land Rover V8 Hybrid
1994 Toyota Surf
1994 Toyota Surf
Plus you need to remove the caliper or disconnect the brake line.
If you have the hub assembly off then it's also worth checking the wheel bearings, these have a 52mm dual nut setup with lock washers, you can buy a socket and a nut/washer kit on trademe quite cheaply.
Repack the wheel bearings and apply lots of grease to the brass bushes and make sure you check the CV boots, you don't want to have to pull everything apart again!
You might find that the bushes are so flogged out that they need replacing. These need to be pressed in and cost about $50 for the parts.
I did my LN130, pulled it apart, greased everything then put it back together only to find that the bushes were flogged and needed to be replaced.
Matt.
If you have the hub assembly off then it's also worth checking the wheel bearings, these have a 52mm dual nut setup with lock washers, you can buy a socket and a nut/washer kit on trademe quite cheaply.
Repack the wheel bearings and apply lots of grease to the brass bushes and make sure you check the CV boots, you don't want to have to pull everything apart again!
You might find that the bushes are so flogged out that they need replacing. These need to be pressed in and cost about $50 for the parts.
I did my LN130, pulled it apart, greased everything then put it back together only to find that the bushes were flogged and needed to be replaced.
Matt.
Thanks - how do you know if its "too flogged".
I have a large socket set so that should make life easy...
If there is any local with experience on taking these apart, I'll do you a trade on something. I'll get it sussed but if some one has done it before it always speeds things up.
How about a bit of motivation on some of your repairs by coming out and giving a hand and in turn I'll give you a hand with something and use our workshop.
Most hand tools, arc welder, grinder, drills, vice, four socket sets (¼, ½, ¾"), compressor, basic air tools, etc. Can help with body finishing etc too. BYO screwdrivers, there is a shortage here...
I have a large socket set so that should make life easy...
If there is any local with experience on taking these apart, I'll do you a trade on something. I'll get it sussed but if some one has done it before it always speeds things up.
How about a bit of motivation on some of your repairs by coming out and giving a hand and in turn I'll give you a hand with something and use our workshop.
Most hand tools, arc welder, grinder, drills, vice, four socket sets (¼, ½, ¾"), compressor, basic air tools, etc. Can help with body finishing etc too. BYO screwdrivers, there is a shortage here...
Righto
Ive unbolted top A arm (4 small bolts) put a jack in between and dropped the steering ball joint.
but am unable to take out the shaft, do I have to remove it from the diff end as well or should I be able to take it out from the hub with out doing that?
If it must come from the diff end do I undo the six bolts just beyond the inner boot and seperate it there?
Ive unbolted top A arm (4 small bolts) put a jack in between and dropped the steering ball joint.
but am unable to take out the shaft, do I have to remove it from the diff end as well or should I be able to take it out from the hub with out doing that?
If it must come from the diff end do I undo the six bolts just beyond the inner boot and seperate it there?
You can leave the axle and cv attached to the diff and just disconnect the lower ball joint and the brake line.
You can then pull the entire hub assembly away. Alternatively undo those 6 bolts as well and then everything will come out.
I find undoing the sway bar helps with moving the lower arm around.
Matt.
You can then pull the entire hub assembly away. Alternatively undo those 6 bolts as well and then everything will come out.
I find undoing the sway bar helps with moving the lower arm around.
Matt.
Thanks Matt
I have managed to repack with grease, the right one (where the sound seemed to be coming from) was dry as a chip. the left was still greased pretty well. Also freed up both sets of brake slave cylinders. Have just finished putting everything together and am about to bleed brakes and then test - finger's crossed two problems fixed at once.
She's hot out there today! Especially when doing those hard bolts!
got clean hands at the mo so checking here and in from the sun
must head back out to complete
will report back
I have managed to repack with grease, the right one (where the sound seemed to be coming from) was dry as a chip. the left was still greased pretty well. Also freed up both sets of brake slave cylinders. Have just finished putting everything together and am about to bleed brakes and then test - finger's crossed two problems fixed at once.
She's hot out there today! Especially when doing those hard bolts!
got clean hands at the mo so checking here and in from the sun
must head back out to complete
will report back
Yup all good.
Got the issues sussed and killed two birds with one stone (brake issue and grumble)
Been down the Ashley to test out - three times since finishing the repairs at about 5pm (River is only a bout 2 ks away from here:))
Mike appreciate your experience to identify what the problem was, you were right on! And the explainations on how to attack it were useful from both your self and Matt - exactly what a forum like this should be all about.
Tops
Got the issues sussed and killed two birds with one stone (brake issue and grumble)
Been down the Ashley to test out - three times since finishing the repairs at about 5pm (River is only a bout 2 ks away from here:))
Mike appreciate your experience to identify what the problem was, you were right on! And the explainations on how to attack it were useful from both your self and Matt - exactly what a forum like this should be all about.
Tops
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mike
- Last minute Mike
- Posts: 3545
- Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2002 12:00 pm
- Location: Christchurch - The place I'd like to be
Good to see it all worked out ok for you. sorry i wasnt able to anwser any of your earlier posts, my comp died yesterday (again!!!!! 
) I've just spent all last night and today re-installing two operating systems 
I have to replace a CV soon on mine so have to go through it all again and I have the same problem with the brake cylinder as well
Remeber to start saving for that front locker, it will be easier and cheaper in the long run, you will blow that weak front diff if your not going to SAS it, sooner or later!
Mike
) I've just spent all last night and today re-installing two operating systems
I have to replace a CV soon on mine so have to go through it all again and I have the same problem with the brake cylinder as well
Remeber to start saving for that front locker, it will be easier and cheaper in the long run, you will blow that weak front diff if your not going to SAS it, sooner or later!
Mike
1973 SWB Land Rover V8 Hybrid
1994 Toyota Surf
1994 Toyota Surf
Think I'll put the $ towards a MWB Cruiser that's what I ideally want.
It will cost almost half what I paid for the truck for a locker, unless they are cheaper than I expect...
But must stay focused - truck is only an accessory for carting gear to the rental, just that 95% of its use so far has been for other things and I take my weekends up playing or (repairing) instead of working on the house...
It will cost almost half what I paid for the truck for a locker, unless they are cheaper than I expect...
But must stay focused - truck is only an accessory for carting gear to the rental, just that 95% of its use so far has been for other things and I take my weekends up playing or (repairing) instead of working on the house...
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mike
- Last minute Mike
- Posts: 3545
- Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2002 12:00 pm
- Location: Christchurch - The place I'd like to be
not as expensive as you think.
http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html
toyota 7.5" diff. $245US + $40US (when i got mine two years ago - postage that is) took about 3 weeks to get here
cheaper than my replacement diff for mine! The diffs go becuase one wheel spins up and then grabs and bang. lockers stop this. put the stress to the CV's which are way cheaper to fix and easier.
Mike
http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html
toyota 7.5" diff. $245US + $40US (when i got mine two years ago - postage that is) took about 3 weeks to get here
cheaper than my replacement diff for mine! The diffs go becuase one wheel spins up and then grabs and bang. lockers stop this. put the stress to the CV's which are way cheaper to fix and easier.
Mike
1973 SWB Land Rover V8 Hybrid
1994 Toyota Surf
1994 Toyota Surf
mike wrote:not as expensive as you think.
http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html
toyota 7.5" diff. $245US + $40US (when i got mine two years ago - postage that is) took about 3 weeks to get here
+12.5% GST
microwaved cheese on toast
mike wrote:
not as expensive as you think.
http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html
toyota 7.5" diff. $245US + $40US (when i got mine two years ago - postage that is) took about 3 weeks to get here
+12.5% GST
I bought one about 2 years ago also similar price from the same place,
no GST.
Just ordered it and it arrived on the front door.
Toyota 70 series cruiser, 13bt
Phone 029 454 8533
Phone 029 454 8533