Croosover steer hilux pics

hosehustler · Post by **hosehustler** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 12:15 pm

Asked from several for some pics so here they are

Ln61 powersteer pump installed on reinforced chassis plates (double sided) complete with crush tubes, you can also just see the snake racing steering shaft extension, makes for a real tidy certifiable job.

Pitman arm is from a prado as this is preferred as it is flatter than an ln61 and also means you can use an original hilux ball joint

opposite side showing pitman arm up as high towards the chassis as I can get it, this means front spring doesn't hit pitman arm when fully compressed.

Shows the flip arm which has been sleved by an engineer to accept the ball joint from the bottom, and of course it all bolts together on longer studs.

similar shot, the draglink (rod that goes form pitman arm to flip arm) is just an original hilux tierod shoertened.

completed steering.

And from this shot you can see the extra heght which is required in order to run the crossover steer, I have achieved the height by extending front spring hangers 50mm, and 50mm extended front shackles, modified hilux rear springs fitted to front, also neede to fit a mid bowl sump and oil pump to the supra engine, these are on early crowns, etc
The steering is now absolutely superb, one of the best mods I have done as far as comfort and straight line driving on and off road.
Anyone looking to do this set up in canterbury is welcome to come and look,all these mods have been done before by others in various ways, surfing the net, ORE, talking to others has provided me with enough clues to put it together myself and have it certified.......*stoked*

Mattman · Post by **Mattman** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 5:01 pm

Nice work.

Matt.

dazza85 · Post by **dazza85** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 8:48 pm

That looks realy great.

Well done man

toymudlux · Post by **toymudlux** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 8:58 pm

top job , the lux is looking sweeet..

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 5:51 am

so was the flip arm ok to cert tim?

i heard a whisper it may not be legal now? although that may just be in very recent times, you may have snuck through prior the change..

nice work on the rig fella... thats gold... :thumleft:

billyvanboheman · Post by **billyvanboheman** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 6:09 am

niblik wrote:nice work on the rig fella... thats gold... :thumleft:

Yip, top job Tim, Looks bloody stunning :!:

So what's next then :?:

muddyhilux · Post by **muddyhilux** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:50 am

hey mate,thats sum nice work,both on the truck and the pics,i havent seen many pics of this but that is just so dam easy to understand it aint funny,altho i am an engineer,but still,great work mate,i wish i lived down south n id come have a squiz but from aucks to there is a bit far for me,lol

hosehustler · Post by **hosehustler** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:09 am

niblik wrote:so was the flip arm ok to cert tim?

i heard a whisper it may not be legal now? although that may just be in very recent times, you may have snuck through prior the change..

nice work on the rig fella... thats gold... :thumleft:

You heard wrong, lot of 'pub talk' my truck is now fully certified and warranted as of yesterday, also spoke with Wayne indepth yesterday about the fip arm cert and he said the way I had done it was just certifiable....it would have been a better engineered job to have a milled plate in between the flpi arms instead of just cone washers and a lock nut, such as the way you have done it :wink:

and this is how I would have done it if I was doing the job again, thats a perfect job you've done Jas and it will sail through :thumright:

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:57 am

oh feckin sweet!!!

cheers tim..

MATT4U · Post by **MATT4U** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 9:43 pm

I see you got a stering shaft extention, I thought you were going to make a longer one out of two??

wopass · Post by **wopass** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:25 pm

just to add to the allready great job...

if it were me i would have had your engineer do a sleeve and taper flip on this as well getting your steering link arm up out of the way of the compressing spring and giving it more room to compress without fouling on the bottom of the rod end

theres room there to do it

hosehustler · Post by **hosehustler** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:29 am

wopass wrote:just to add to the allready great job...

if it were me i would have had your engineer do a sleeve and taper flip on this as well getting your steering link arm up out of the way of the compressing spring and giving it more room to compress without fouling on the bottom of the rod end

theres room there to do it

No there wasn't otherwise that's what I would have done :lol:

,
when it's fully atriculating (with PAX side compressed) the tie rod is just touching near the sump, and the only way to have done what you're suggesting would have been to lift the motor mounts 2 inches which would of meant lifting the body another 2 inches (or cutting a hole in the bonnet for the cam cover), or doing yet more spring lift

looked at modifying the sump but woulf of made stuff all difference as the bottom of the engine was where it would hit rather than the sump itself, this was the best compromise without lifting the truck to a height that would be embarassing :shock:

wopass · Post by **wopass** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:59 am

hosehustler wrote:
wopass wrote:just to add to the allready great job...

if it were me i would have had your engineer do a sleeve and taper flip on this as well getting your steering link arm up out of the way of the compressing spring and giving it more room to compress without fouling on the bottom of the rod end

theres room there to do it

No there wasn't otherwise that's what I would have done ,
when it's fully atriculating (with PAX side compressed) the tie rod is just touching near the sump, and the only way to have done what you're suggesting would have been to lift the motor mounts 2 inches which would of meant lifting the body another 2 inches (or cutting a hole in the bonnet for the cam cover), or doing yet more spring lift looked at modifying the sump but woulf of made stuff all difference as the bottom of the engine was where it would hit rather than the sump itself, this was the best compromise without lifting the truck to a height that would be embarassing

ahhhh...the sump in the way, righto, diddnt see that. looks good tho dude :wink:

MATT4U · Post by **MATT4U** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 8:00 am

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/images/albums/Hosehustler/Picture_019.sized.jpg

how come you had the ball joint moved to sit on the bottom of the arm?

hosehustler · Post by **hosehustler** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:03 am

MATT4U wrote:how come you had the ball joint moved to sit on the bottom of the arm?

Otherwise it sits up too high and when the pax side compresses while articulating the tie rod could hit the chassis rail

This is a shot that is from Steve's albumn (hope you don't mind steve

) of Conan's beast, showing what I thought could be a problem
I don't know if the tie rod does hit but looked mighty close to me

Steve......... :?:

Conan........ :?:

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 2:12 pm

Nope, never contacted - but the suspension was designed around it - bump-stops and shock positioning/mounting etc were all done after the steering...

Just to add my 2c, the plating around the steering box is very pretty

Steve

hosehustler wrote:
MATT4U wrote:how come you had the ball joint moved to sit on the bottom of the arm?

Otherwise it sits up too high and when the pax side compresses while articulating the tie rod could hit the chassis rail

This is a shot that is from Steve's albumn (hope you don't mind steve ) of Conan's beast, showing what I thought could be a problem
I don't know if the tie rod does hit but looked mighty close to me

Steve.........
Conan........

De-Ranged · Post by **De-Ranged** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 6:43 pm

Have talked with my certifier about this and he was unwilling to pass this... I think it depends a bit on the certifier if its acceptable, noticed a few bits like that :roll:

I know its been done and run on compition trucks but it still looks a bit if'y... Nibs "block" would make me feel alot happyer as all the studs work together and brace each other through the block
liked the idea with the sleave in the drag link arm nice

My answer

can't argue these!!

Oh and a little tip 2wd hilux drive shafts are longer on some models :wink:

save having to buy that awfully trick steering extension

Cheers Reece

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:32 pm

De-Ranged wrote:Oh and a little tip 2wd hilux drive shafts are longer on some models save having to buy that awfully trick steering extension

As are the non-power-steer 4WD ones

See - manual steer parts ARE good for something

Steve

hosehustler · Post by **hosehustler** » Sat Mar 24, 2007 8:12 pm

Thanks to thos 'posting' the info you're coming out with will make the same job simpler for others

Matt4u came round the other day with a 2wd hilux steering shaft wich he said is 6inches longer, also heard that 60 series cruiser ones are the go........daddy had the snake racing adatpter sitting on the shelf of the garage and it happened my way at the time so thats the way I went

Hi steer is definately the way to go Reece :wink:

matter of time for me but want the longfields before I shell out on histeer

MATT4U · Post by **MATT4U** » Tue May 15, 2007 8:48 pm

Thougt I would add my crossover pics to the mix.

fisho · Post by **fisho** » Wed May 16, 2007 1:53 pm

over in aus late model hilux pitman arms seem the preferred option for crossover steering.

Croosover steer hilux pics

Croosover steer hilux pics

;-p

Re: ;-p

Re: ;-p