I'm new to the diesel game, I have just bought a terrano diesel and for some reason there seems to be an excessive amount of engine oil in the intake (Actually dripping out of the intake hoses on occasions). The oil appears to be coming from the engine breather, (turbo looks and functions fine and oil is present upstream from it aswell).
The engine breathes a reasonable amount, about the same as a older petrol but I think diesels do breather more due to the high compression. The engine has only done 13000ks since a major rebuild (thankfully before I purchased it) and there was no outward signs when I purchased it.
I am confused, is this oil normal? if not what is the fix, what things should I check?? Any advice would be gladly taken. thanks
Engine oil in intake
Yeah, normal for an older Turbo diesel.
The blow-by oil vapour come out from the rocker cover and enters the intake just after the airfilter.
Once the air becomes compressed between the turbo and the intake manifold,the oil is forced out of its vapour form back into a liquid, same as what happens in the crank case of a two stroke engine.
It then sit's in there and trickles through to the engine and is burnt resulting in an oily smelling exhust and the odd puff of blue smoke. Very common in 2.4 surfs and Playdoe's.
If its worrying you, pull the turbo pluming off, clean it out, scoop out as much of the crap from the intake manifold as you can, it will be THICK in there!!!! Then put her back together.
Some dissconect the crank case breather from the air intake, but i like to think the oil vapour lubricates the valves nicly on its way through.
You can get the EGR pulled off, which simply put, makes the engine eat its own crap buy recirculating the exhust gases back through the intake, to be burnt again, passing the turbo. Stupid idea, and really bad for the longevity of your motor!!!
It cost me $270 to get that done. Was definatly worth it!!!!
The blow-by oil vapour come out from the rocker cover and enters the intake just after the airfilter.
Once the air becomes compressed between the turbo and the intake manifold,the oil is forced out of its vapour form back into a liquid, same as what happens in the crank case of a two stroke engine.
It then sit's in there and trickles through to the engine and is burnt resulting in an oily smelling exhust and the odd puff of blue smoke. Very common in 2.4 surfs and Playdoe's.
If its worrying you, pull the turbo pluming off, clean it out, scoop out as much of the crap from the intake manifold as you can, it will be THICK in there!!!! Then put her back together.
Some dissconect the crank case breather from the air intake, but i like to think the oil vapour lubricates the valves nicly on its way through.
You can get the EGR pulled off, which simply put, makes the engine eat its own crap buy recirculating the exhust gases back through the intake, to be burnt again, passing the turbo. Stupid idea, and really bad for the longevity of your motor!!!
It cost me $270 to get that done. Was definatly worth it!!!!
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
The thing is that it's not an old diesel, it a 2000 model, plus it has had a engine rebuild only 13,000 km ago, doesn't blow any smoke, apart from a very small amount when it start cold. 
Is there suppose to be a valve of something to reduce the amount of oil that enters the intake or something.
will look at the EGR mod too thanks
Is there suppose to be a valve of something to reduce the amount of oil that enters the intake or something.
will look at the EGR mod too thanks
hi
there should be NO oil in the charge pipes on older or new diesels on ether side of the turbo. Too much oil can be sucked up and used as fuel causing to motor to "run on" if this happened the motor can rev to distruction. Oil in the intake is most likely to come from the tappet cover breather or a leak in the turbo lubrication system. If the motor is breathing hard this is commonly refered to as blowby and is not good as this is due to compression leaking down from the pistons into the crank case venting back up to the tappet cover forcing oil vapour into the tubo charge pipes thru the vent. The most relible way to check is to ask your engine reconditioner to do a leak down test.
let us know how you got on
cheers DJ
NZCE(mech) MASME (and generally a nice guy)
there should be NO oil in the charge pipes on older or new diesels on ether side of the turbo. Too much oil can be sucked up and used as fuel causing to motor to "run on" if this happened the motor can rev to distruction. Oil in the intake is most likely to come from the tappet cover breather or a leak in the turbo lubrication system. If the motor is breathing hard this is commonly refered to as blowby and is not good as this is due to compression leaking down from the pistons into the crank case venting back up to the tappet cover forcing oil vapour into the tubo charge pipes thru the vent. The most relible way to check is to ask your engine reconditioner to do a leak down test.
let us know how you got on
cheers DJ
NZCE(mech) MASME (and generally a nice guy)
Hell, 28 psi!!!!
No way, try 12 psi!!!!
Check for signs some one has adjusted the waste gate!!!
Or your waste gate may not be working!!!
There is noo way in hell it should be running 28 psi!!!
I can't beleive it hasn't blown up yet!!!!!!
A subaru WRX STI comes out factory at 16 psi boost as an indication of just how high yours is!!!
No way, try 12 psi!!!!
Check for signs some one has adjusted the waste gate!!!
Or your waste gate may not be working!!!
There is noo way in hell it should be running 28 psi!!!
I can't beleive it hasn't blown up yet!!!!!!
A subaru WRX STI comes out factory at 16 psi boost as an indication of just how high yours is!!!
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
It's boosting to about 28psi.
is a little toooooooooooooo much I dont know the exact figure and can check for you but at 28 psi It will go very well, while you up there thought about LPG injection
Diesels are built for higher compression levels and are most reponsive to preformance mods, try putting on a exhast extractors on a non turbo motor you will be impressed, add a larger air intake and exhast to a turbo the increase is far more than a petrol motor.Besides, compression and boost presure have a very strange relation ship!!
You run low a compresion ration in a turboed engine so there is more space in the cylinder at TDC to take full advantage of the increased volume of air being supplied by the turbo.
Remembering compression ratio only means the space reaming at TDC over that at BDC.
The idea of the turbo is to pack as much air into the cyliner as possible to produce a bigger more complete explosion.
If you have a bigger space in the top of the cylinder like you get with a lower compression ratio, the greater the volume of air you can pack in.
Bugger it I'm doing it again. Time to shut up. Sorry.
Pete.
You run low a compresion ration in a turboed engine so there is more space in the cylinder at TDC to take full advantage of the increased volume of air being supplied by the turbo.
Remembering compression ratio only means the space reaming at TDC over that at BDC.
The idea of the turbo is to pack as much air into the cyliner as possible to produce a bigger more complete explosion.
If you have a bigger space in the top of the cylinder like you get with a lower compression ratio, the greater the volume of air you can pack in.
Bugger it I'm doing it again. Time to shut up. Sorry.
Pete.
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
its all about volumetric efficency, the more air and fuel you pack into those cylinders the more bang you make therefore loads more power... you may need to check the adjustment on the injector pump when you lower that boost, as it may be throwing lots of fuel in to keep up with the increased air pressure being forced in. or it might not have been changed and might be leaning out way too much at hi boost. which will also increase running temps. I've heard stories about dealers spacing out waste gates on turbo engines to make it seem like the car has more power to make easy to sell...??? good luck boss
Cheers for all the input so far 
I understand the jargon, but I'm still wondering how the oil is leaking,
My guess is that the boost is increasing the pressure inside the cylinder so much that it has no chioce but to blow past the rings, it's either that or blow up!
The mechanics think that the airflow meter is faulty, which make sense,as there is no increase in power,
my logic is that is it was anything else the system would be sending heaps of fuel is to match the airflow, Would this be a fair assumption or has anyone had experience with something like this before?
I understand the jargon, but I'm still wondering how the oil is leaking,
My guess is that the boost is increasing the pressure inside the cylinder so much that it has no chioce but to blow past the rings, it's either that or blow up!
The mechanics think that the airflow meter is faulty, which make sense,as there is no increase in power,
my logic is that is it was anything else the system would be sending heaps of fuel is to match the airflow, Would this be a fair assumption or has anyone had experience with something like this before?At the end of the day, its blow by oil being pushed past the hose clamps that hold the rubber/silicone sections on the in take manifold.
Weathe the boost is to high, forcing the oil out, or just over time it seeps out under normal boost pressure is besides the point.
They all do it. And all engines have blow by, espcially the Turbo diesels.
We have a brand new flat deck cruiser at work, i drove it the other day, it has 4000K's on the clock, its a 4.2 direct injection turbo motor. It had more blow by than my Safari with 150,000K on the clock!!!
Just clean the intake out, get the boost level sorted out, it may be ok as it is, it is a late modle vehicle after all. Just drive the damn thing.
The lifters on my Safari have flat spots on them apparetly, and at a certain opperating temp make an annoying random ticking sound like a tappet needs adjusting. I nearly pulled the head of to replace them.
It took alot of convincing by alot of people to just leave them alone.
I'm just living with it and enjoying the vehicle.
So if your compression is good, theirs nothing wrong the turbo, and you've cleaned out the intake, then you should been fine.
DJ , what do ya reckon??
Weathe the boost is to high, forcing the oil out, or just over time it seeps out under normal boost pressure is besides the point.
They all do it. And all engines have blow by, espcially the Turbo diesels.
We have a brand new flat deck cruiser at work, i drove it the other day, it has 4000K's on the clock, its a 4.2 direct injection turbo motor. It had more blow by than my Safari with 150,000K on the clock!!!
Just clean the intake out, get the boost level sorted out, it may be ok as it is, it is a late modle vehicle after all. Just drive the damn thing.
The lifters on my Safari have flat spots on them apparetly, and at a certain opperating temp make an annoying random ticking sound like a tappet needs adjusting. I nearly pulled the head of to replace them.
It took alot of convincing by alot of people to just leave them alone.
I'm just living with it and enjoying the vehicle.
So if your compression is good, theirs nothing wrong the turbo, and you've cleaned out the intake, then you should been fine.
DJ , what do ya reckon??
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
yep as a wise man once said " if it an't broken dont f#@k with it"
I wrote a big long story about oil consumpion but it dissapeared into ciberspace somewhere so I'll try again. And you now have peace of mind knowing that the motor is in good condition following a leak down test.
No jap engine manufacturers will give oil consumpion figures as it veries between motors, even motors made after each other in the same factory the same day the same series. If you rebuild a motor the oil useage can alter. But all motors MUST use oil. Just the amount veries. I have had a motor, diesil truck( Fuso)that used very little oil after being rebuilt it started to use, not leak, 2 litres per 1000 ks. After many long debates and lots of time spent between the agents they finally admitted that was acceptable and well within their tolerences. They would not say what the upper limits are though.?? American and euro diesils are completely a different story, it appears that they take an average then add a factor to arrive at a ball park oil usage figure. They say it should be between x and y. So if your jappa is using oil good on ya but dont compare with your mates same model, same year, same colour, etc, etc or you will be depressed. This is not limited to just diesils.
just to get really interesting ask a jappa manufacturer about horse power figures. but I have strolled off the subject. If there is no noises cracks rattles bangs or things that go bump leave it alone.
cheers DJ
these Ramblings r my opinons with advise from Mr Jim Beam and close friend Jack daniels Esqire
I wrote a big long story about oil consumpion but it dissapeared into ciberspace somewhere so I'll try again. And you now have peace of mind knowing that the motor is in good condition following a leak down test.
No jap engine manufacturers will give oil consumpion figures as it veries between motors, even motors made after each other in the same factory the same day the same series. If you rebuild a motor the oil useage can alter. But all motors MUST use oil. Just the amount veries. I have had a motor, diesil truck( Fuso)that used very little oil after being rebuilt it started to use, not leak, 2 litres per 1000 ks. After many long debates and lots of time spent between the agents they finally admitted that was acceptable and well within their tolerences. They would not say what the upper limits are though.?? American and euro diesils are completely a different story, it appears that they take an average then add a factor to arrive at a ball park oil usage figure. They say it should be between x and y. So if your jappa is using oil good on ya but dont compare with your mates same model, same year, same colour, etc, etc or you will be depressed. This is not limited to just diesils.
just to get really interesting ask a jappa manufacturer about horse power figures. but I have strolled off the subject. If there is no noises cracks rattles bangs or things that go bump leave it alone.
cheers DJ
these Ramblings r my opinons with advise from Mr Jim Beam and close friend Jack daniels Esqire
Well After much wailing an nashing of teeth it seems to be sorted, New airflow meter and is away, drives like a dream. Still not going to take it back to them though, I had to check everything they did, and when you go to an "expert" to get things fixed, and you have to do most of it yourself it's not worth it. "Diesel and turbo specailists" my arse!
but hey I better not talk about them here.
Cheers for all your help and suggestions.
but hey I better not talk about them here.
Cheers for all your help and suggestions.