Supra bearing failure

brakes-shocks-lockers-etc
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hosehustler
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Post by hosehustler »

Drained oil from engine today and bits of metal included :?
Pulled sump off to see what else I could find and found what appears to be the remnants of what was a big end bearing :x
Matt4u has kindly offered me a parts engine so shouldn't have too mmany drama's getting the Supra screamin' again :mrgreen:
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nuts
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hurry hurry sound like another trip comin up

Post by nuts »

hosehustler wrote:Drained oil from engine today and bits of metal included :?
Pulled sump off to see what else I could find and found what appears to be the remnants of what was a big end bearing :x
Matt4u has kindly offered me a parts engine so shouldn't have too mmany drama's getting the Supra screamin' again :mrgreen:

glad to hear u will have ya rig sorted soon :D
sounds like aqnother westcoaster is coming up :twisted: :wink:
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SMOKEY
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Post by SMOKEY »

Tim, is the bearing failure anything to do with you sump and oil pick up change, :?: . I recall seeing a Toy ute with Supra conversion for sale about a year ago I think it was MUDRAT, was sold to ORE member in Timaru, and in the add it said something about special sump and pick up to avoid oil starvation problems.

In my earlier motor sport days , before we had the hardwear to drysump motors, It was common practice to modify sumps and pick ups to keep the oil around the pick up.

NO LUBRICATION = DEATH RATTLE,

FITZY.
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hosehustler
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Post by hosehustler »

SMOKEY wrote:Tim, is the bearing failure anything to do with you sump and oil pick up change, :?: . I recall seeing a Toy ute with Supra conversion for sale about a year ago I think it was MUDRAT, was sold to ORE member in Timaru, and in the add it said something about special sump and pick up to avoid oil starvation problems.

NO LUBRICATION = DEATH RATTLE,

FITZY.


Hi Fitzy,
I am sure the damage has been caused due to the front bowl sump over the last 2 1/2 yrs of angles causing oil starvation :o
Also as we were doing a huge amount of winching and me only having a single battery I left it idling a lot (hours :shock: ) which of course isn't good as oil pressure would be low.
Matt4u is very kindly letting me have his spare bottom end (thanks Matt :mrgreen: ) which I will put new rings and bearing in, priced them up yesterday a whopping $120 rings, $45 big end bearings, $77 main bearings, and $102 for a head gasket, thats a total of around $350 :lol:
I will be taking the time while engine is out to reposition the alternator up high which means ditching the supra powersteer pump and putting a hilux one where the supra aircon pump was, and using a hilux remote resevior, these changes have been done by others before :wink:
I am also going to do a twin battery set up at the same time which will remove the need to leave the truck idling in the bush :P
With these mods done and the mid bowl sump things should be fine :D
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SMOKEY
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Post by SMOKEY »

Hi Tim, I doubt if idling would have contributed to your bearing failure as years ago some motors had no oil pumps or oil pressure and relied on a splash system and they ran for years.
If you had the space I would be looking at welding some wings on the sides of the sump bowl ( increases the sump capacity and keeps the oil around the pickup), put in extra baffles, and if not already fitted make up and fit a windage tray,( this acts as a barrier between the crank and the oil in the sump. Check on some Chev; V8 sites, they are big on modified sumps ). Good luck with the re build, and I hope Matt doesn't ever require his spare motor, mind you the way he Nancies it , it should last forever, :shock:

THE SOUND OF A SIX MAKES THE WET SPOT,

FITZY
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hosehustler
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Post by hosehustler »

Thanks Fitzy,
will look at the sump mods carefully, the Internet is a wonderful place :P
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Post by wjw »

If the powersteer pump reservoir mounts the same way as it does on the 2JZGE (which I'm sure it does, looking at Matts) you just need the hoses and remote reservoir from a 2JZGTE as they use the same pump, but with a remote reservoir. I'll be hunting for one for mine soon so I can move the alternator to be a slave off the PS pump.

Cheers,

Bill
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Post by wjw »

Image

Image

See the bit in the red box... you need that!
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Post by monaro427 »

hey tim i'm looking at mounting my alternator higher as well just got to try and figure out how if you start before i get to mine would you send some picks of how you have done it and explaining what you did, cheers craig,
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hosehustler
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Post by hosehustler »

monaro427 wrote:hey tim i'm looking at mounting my alternator higher as well just got to try and figure out how if you start before i get to mine would you send some picks of how you have done it and explaining what you did, cheers craig,

will document the process :wink:
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Post by MATT4U »

I have a remote resrvoir to If ya want to tim, and mabe the pump mabe, I think its still on my engine from the doner truck, and that motor just happens to be in chch.
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Post by SupraLux »

Hopefully this will help a little... This is what I did on Conans motor to mount the alternator up high...

From memory I used some 8mm plate to make a plate that bolts around the top front corner of the exhaust manifold, welded some 40mm box to it as a standoff then used some more plate off that as a standoff... on the end of that I modified and mounted the stock alternator adjusting bracket. The bottom mount that the alternator pivots on I made using random bits and pieces and bolted that to about three different places off the front of the motor.

I don't have any better pics, but if Conan reads this then he might post something more revealing :)

Image

Image

Steve
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mountin alt higher

Post by mud_slinger »

hey steve jus a quick question on ya mu did you move the alt up higher? i wana mount mine up higher on ma 4jb1 but not sure how.any input wood be much appreciated
cheers
hamish
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SupraLux
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Re: mountin alt higher

Post by SupraLux »

mud_slinger wrote:hey steve jus a quick question on ya mu did you move the alt up higher? i wana mount mine up higher on ma 4jb1 but not sure how.any input wood be much appreciated
cheers
hamish


Nope, never touched the motor in the MU... it worked fine where it was, and by design it was well up in the air - along with the rest of the truck :)

Steve
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hosehustler
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Post by hosehustler »

Got the motor out and in pieces :mrgreen: Want to get a quote on a crank grind, and big end resize/machine......anyone know any quality trdespeople :o
Don't necessarily want a cheap job, want a good job and by repairing mine Matt gets to keep his spare :wink:
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Post by mike »

hosehustler wrote:Got the motor out and in pieces :mrgreen: Want to get a quote on a crank grind, and big end resize/machine......anyone know any quality trdespeople :o
Don't necessarily want a cheap job, want a good job and by repairing mine Matt gets to keep his spare :wink:


Pm icedjohno he knows the people the in the business like the back of his hand it and if he doesnt know he knows someone who knows :scratch:

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wjw
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Post by wjw »

Tim, have PM'd you Johno's mobile number ;-) would have txt'd it to you but my stupid phone won't do that !!! grrr :x
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Post by MATT4U »

Na its all good tim, I may have plans to build something bigger anyway
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Post by hiriklux »

precision engineering on newman st in rangiora :wink: :wink:
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Post by IcedJohnno »

Thanks for the compliments guys :)

Tim, I have remembered Kevin at Smiths Regrinds surname.
He is Kevin Nankeval and is one of the two foremen there. He has just sold his National class winning 1300 susi powered offroader that he developed himself. Kevin has lots of engine rebuilding experience and thinks about what he does. We worked together at Mace Engineering.

Cheers John
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hosehustler
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Post by hosehustler »

Had the crank measured for a grind but unfortunately it has a small crack in it :x
Matt has kindly parted with his spare bottom end and Matt and I stripped it down to find a nice clean crank and pistons/bores, the bottom timing pulley woodruff key was about to let go though :shock: and a couple of the main bearings had some marks but all up looks to be the weapon of choice :D
Will drop th crank in today for a size and polish, also i'm intending to do a light hone on the bores going to fit rings, mains, Bigends, and then my head on to the freshened bottom end :mrgreen:
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Post by IcedJohnno »

Tim
I would recommend getting the crankshaft journal radii shot-peened. This aids the crank by putting the surface in tension in the stressed areas (Journal radii) thus extending the life of the crank before fatigue cracks start.

The job can probably be done by some of your mates at the AIR NZ maintenance hanger. This is where I get all my crack testing done for the usual Brown fees that come in six packs :lol:

I use ASL, Aviation Support Services for my fatigue resistant shot-peening, there is a certain grade of shot and length of time in the aviation standards that these guys follow. All the race car stuff is done here too.

It does not affect the bearing surfaces as they heavily mask these off leaving just the radii exposed. Then you can happily make the sweet six really HOWL 8)

Worth getting all the rotation parts balanced too, makes a huge difference.
I wish they had done it when my 1KZ got a new flywheel before I had it.

I NEED TO HEAR A SWEET SIX
John
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