Tow Hooks

munster · Post by **munster** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 6:57 am

Morning, just picked up a '97 Prado yesterday. It has a factory tow hook on the front and I got a rather substantial tow bar fitted to the rear.

My question is, where do you fit the rear tow hook? I know that you're not supoosed to use the towbar for snatch recoveries.

Any pictures would help.

Thanks

wjw · Post by **wjw** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 12:38 pm

I took the ball out and use a 6.5T Shackle:

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules ... ucts_id=32

Pin fits perfectly, although on some bars it may not fit.... most of the time I can only get a 3.5T one to fit.... which isn't great. Two ways of sorting that are either drill out hole in tow bar or grind pin, best bet I think is to enlarge the hole in the towbar.

munster · Post by **munster** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 12:48 pm

Thanks for that, but I want to keep the towball and fit a hook.

Is that possible and where to put the hook.

I tow a boat regularly.

Jungle · Post by **Jungle** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 2:01 pm

Have a squize up under the chassis rail where the tow bar is attached, on the under side you might have two bolts that are 40 mm apart there abouts. These will hopefully be the same bolt pattern as your standard recovery hook. It does mean your hook is facing down which has its own problems. Catches on things and your snatch rope falls off when you back up if you don't have a good keeper.

Other options are finding a strong looking piece of your new towbar. Does it have any flat plate sections of greater than 5mm thick.

Maybe post a picture and we'll pin the tail on the donkey.

Cheers

G

munster · Post by **munster** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 2:07 pm

Mmmm.

Bolt holes could be 40mm, I'd have to measure tonite.

Towbar assembly is substantial, rated for 3500kg. 3 bolts each side holding the towbar frame onto the chassis. square tube, angle braced back to chassis plates, large triangular frame down to towbar tongue.

So, it would be OK to bolt a tow hook onto the towbar frame?

Jungle · Post by **Jungle** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 2:14 pm

You will be fine bolting tow hooks to your tow bar. Try and get as close to the plane of the chassis as possible to avoid turning forces being applied to the chassis from trying to twist the towbar.

Now I need to draw a picture.

Simply said. Hooks close to chassis not down by the two ball. And possiby a hook on each chassis rail so you can put a rope between the two chassis rails so you can pull evenly on the chassis when its really stuck.

Hows that.

G

munster · Post by **munster** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 2:18 pm

Excellent, I can do that.

Thanks for the advice.

Bubba · Post by **Bubba** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 2:58 pm

I'm about to have a towbar fitted (once I can find a cheap place to do it). My question is, can I have the tow hook bolted to the towbar? Or does it cause to much of a strain (all that sideways jerking etc)

Jungle · Post by **Jungle** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 4:55 pm

You should be trying to snatch your vehicle sideways..You might just hurt yourself!!!

Hooks can be mounted on bull bars. Just as long as they are on a solid part close to the chassis rail. Although if your main cross member of your tow bar is a good size piece of RHS then you could get away with a hook anywhere along there. I've seen people use the shackle on the tow ball hole trick. But you can still get into trouble if you've got a low slung tow bar. They tend to bend the bar up.

Cheers
G

mumad · Post by **mumad** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 8:32 pm

Depending on the design of the back of your truck you could get a pair of jaws made up that attach to the drawbar and/or the rear cross member. I made a interchangeable drawbar for my mu that bolts onto the strenghened (5mm plate) rear cross member that has a pair of jaws above it, I simply pull out the tounge when i go off road and then i don't have to worry about finding hooks, if i can't find the jaws i ain't going backwards!!! If your vechile is for privet use only then the towbar doesn't have to be rated

Bubba · Post by **Bubba** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 12:34 pm

Ok, I'm not the quickest in the world, hence the nickname (I like shrimp....) but this is what I got so far.

It should be fine to bolt on a towing hook close to the chassis rail. Two hooks on either side is better, which makes sence (Thanks G)

As for a pair of claws, I am guessing they look like the towing claimps on the back of the old Army Rovers. In which case I don't need to go that far. This is after all the family shinny that does the kids school run 5 days a week.

Or I can just remove the ball and throw in a shackle

Great advice guys, I love this site, my dump ass questions are never ignored :oops:

munster · Post by **munster** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 12:43 pm

Same, there are no dumb questions, i.e. you don't learn if you don't ask.

I have the hook, just got to drill a couple of 12 mm holes and I'll be set. Can only fit one at this time as the exhaust is to close on the other side.

Also got to move the wiring plug as the towbar installer fitted it to the 'bottom' side of the towbar. Just going to remount it on top of the square frame and I'll be sweet.

Now for my next dumb question. Is the front factory mounted tow hook OK to go or should I replace it. It seems substantial enough, bolted well to the chassis etc Only thing it's missing is a keeper to keep the rope / strop on. Any ideas on how to solve this one?

Jungle · Post by **Jungle** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 2:02 pm

Its another one of those, i can't make a decision till I see it. Some factory hooks are ample enough for recovery. Others are simply tie down points for transport of the vehicle!

Cheers
G

munster · Post by **munster** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 2:10 pm

It's definatley not a tie down hook, there's two of those under the front. The tow hook is bolted to the same place, faces downward, drivers side, but no keeper.

mumad · Post by **mumad** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 5:12 pm

If its a solid hook and has good 12mm hi-tensile bolts in it then it will be fine for average 4wding. You can buy keeper kits so i have heard, but i don't know where, maybe cookes wire and rope? Or you can get a bit of light metal- about 1.5 or 2mm, bend it up to suit and put it on your hook, using the existing bolts, Just make sure the edges are smooth so they don't cut the strop or your fingers. Hope that helps.

Conan · Post by **Conan** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 5:59 pm

just another question along these lines,

i have a rear tow bar mounted on round tubing that runs along the back of vehicle,
tow bar is unboltable so plan was to take that off and put in two recovery points by using a u-bolt, drilled and slotted through tubing then bolted at back and mayb welded as well just for that xtra bit.... is this gonna be all good using a normal u-bolt bout 10-15mm thick or should i bend up some hardedend steel and use that?

Jungle · Post by **Jungle** » Thu Jun 30, 2005 9:04 am

I'd try and stay away from adding bits and peices like ubolts. If things come loose your just making more shrapnel. Plus your club safety guy will think your a headache.

I'd weld the mounting plate to your tube.
Cheers
G

mumad · Post by **mumad** » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:57 pm

Deffenately bend up some steel. If you are going to use bolts with nuts then you only need 6mm plate with a gusset either side. If you are going to drill and tap then use 12mm minimum with a 10.5mm hole for a 12mm thread. I have done this for my front hooks and they haven't moved. You don't have to use hardened steel, Just remember its better to overkill than be weak!!