Rollcage Design/materials
Pics of mine wont be any good to you i have a 4 point that bolts to the chassis behind the cab then depending if i end up competing next year and building a complete cage im goin to run the front legs up inside the cab along the roof line and through the cab above the rear windscreen then join to the top of the outside hoop with a Twin Lug connection.
- nz4x4
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A bit of an update.
I have just started collecting materials etc to build my cage.
It is going to be an external 6 point built to ORANZ specs made out of 38.1mmx2.5mm MANZ approved rollcage tube. (I have been told that this is an approved substitute to 32NB medium wall steam pipe)
One the cage constuction gets underway i will post pics along the way so others can benefit from the research i have done.
I have just started collecting materials etc to build my cage.
It is going to be an external 6 point built to ORANZ specs made out of 38.1mmx2.5mm MANZ approved rollcage tube. (I have been told that this is an approved substitute to 32NB medium wall steam pipe)
One the cage constuction gets underway i will post pics along the way so others can benefit from the research i have done.
- nz4x4
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Yes some hoops have to be one piece (B pillar hoop) and it will be.
The cage design will be almost identical to the one steve's truck (monstr) so only the A pillar part of the hoop will be external the rest will be contained in the ute part of the body (the white canopy comes off...). I will also be adding a lot of extra triangular bracing which will further strengthen the cage.
It only has to withstand one roll so as far as denting goes, I am not worried. If a major dent is evident i would just replace that piece.
I appriciate your concern though.
The cage design will be almost identical to the one steve's truck (monstr) so only the A pillar part of the hoop will be external the rest will be contained in the ute part of the body (the white canopy comes off...). I will also be adding a lot of extra triangular bracing which will further strengthen the cage.
It only has to withstand one roll so as far as denting goes, I am not worried. If a major dent is evident i would just replace that piece.
I appriciate your concern though.
Hi there Sam, I would be concerned about using that size tubing on a truck that weights as much as a mq, have you tried to bend any of that tube and compared it to steam pipe or seamless line pipe?its a lot softer
Medium walled steam pipe would be 3.2mm wall minium.
Would recommend you ring Brian Howat in Wellington and have a talk about the tube you are wanting to use- he used to work at Southwards and Knows some interesting facts about that tube and why the 4wda wont endorse it for use
Cheers
Medium walled steam pipe would be 3.2mm wall minium.
Would recommend you ring Brian Howat in Wellington and have a talk about the tube you are wanting to use- he used to work at Southwards and Knows some interesting facts about that tube and why the 4wda wont endorse it for use
Cheers
ORANZ Rules are out of date and soon to be changed, they only allow 2 types of pipe for roll cages and roll cage pipe and cromolly are not in there. They are beter and will be passed at scrutineering but are not in the rule book. They must have a chassis mounted rollover hop and be a 6 point
If you want to see some cages that comply come to the Extreme park on the 10 of this month (Norwest winch challange) $5 adults kids under 12 free.
Dion
If you want to see some cages that comply come to the Extreme park on the 10 of this month (Norwest winch challange) $5 adults kids under 12 free.
Dion
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Cheers Dion, I'll be up there to have a nosey anyway so will have a look at the cages while I'm there.
When you say the ORANZ rules are soon to be changed, do you mean that they are going to alter the approved materials? and other parts?
Can you remember what size chromo was used on Shirmin?
Madaz, I already know all the specs on the semi-bright tube and have done some tests on it. But cheers all the same
When you say the ORANZ rules are soon to be changed, do you mean that they are going to alter the approved materials? and other parts?
Can you remember what size chromo was used on Shirmin?
Madaz, I already know all the specs on the semi-bright tube and have done some tests on it. But cheers all the same
I think all those curves in the bottom of the main hoop legs will seriously weaken the structure, you might need 3 main hoop bars to regain the strength of a single straight leg. I think most rollcage standards exclude bends in the main hoop legs, allthough feel free to correct me on that one as I don't have the manuals in front of me.
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I was thinking about that myself. From what i can remember the rules generally say that the vertical part of the main rollbar must be as straight and as close as possible to the interior profile of the bodyshell.
Obviously i have a problem with the wheel arch getting in the way. Any ideas on how to get around it? (need to be able to put a twin lug joint under the body to attach to the chassis.
Obviously i have a problem with the wheel arch getting in the way. Any ideas on how to get around it? (need to be able to put a twin lug joint under the body to attach to the chassis.
Cut the back off it
It seems as though your trying to make what should really be an internal cage into an external. How much room is there from the back of the b piller to the wheel arch? How far along the wheel arch does the main hoop need to be? If you remove one of the bends and cut/modify a section of the wheel arch will the tyre foul the main hoop?
You could bring the main hoop outside the body to the sliders like on many of the other winch trucks.

It seems as though your trying to make what should really be an internal cage into an external. How much room is there from the back of the b piller to the wheel arch? How far along the wheel arch does the main hoop need to be? If you remove one of the bends and cut/modify a section of the wheel arch will the tyre foul the main hoop?
You could bring the main hoop outside the body to the sliders like on many of the other winch trucks.
MWB V8 Safari Ute
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Cutting the back of is at a later date....
There is essentially no room from the back of the B pillar to the wheel arch. I may get away with cutting a hole through the wheel arch and running the hoop straight down to the chassis.
If i bring the main hoop out and down to the sliders, how would i beable to get a diagonal brace in?
There is essentially no room from the back of the B pillar to the wheel arch. I may get away with cutting a hole through the wheel arch and running the hoop straight down to the chassis.
If i bring the main hoop out and down to the sliders, how would i beable to get a diagonal brace in?
Good point, it would mean cutting a hole in the body and making the cross braces bolt in. Would be pretty ulgy though.
There is a red hilux wellside in 4x4 action mag in the norwest winch challenge photos it has an exo where the main hoop goes down to the sliders you could look into how they have done it.
If you are dead keen on keeping the rear id go for a nice fitting internal.
There is a red hilux wellside in 4x4 action mag in the norwest winch challenge photos it has an exo where the main hoop goes down to the sliders you could look into how they have done it.
If you are dead keen on keeping the rear id go for a nice fitting internal.
MWB V8 Safari Ute
- nz4x4
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Internal is basicaly out of the question because there isnt enough head room. I would have to drop the seats too much to get the 90mm clearance.
I'm not against chopping the back off but I dont have the money to respray it once it is done (It will be done at a later date)
I might ask steve if i can have a look at his truck. It is a similar set up as I remember. And i will check out 4x4 action
Cheers
I'm not against chopping the back off but I dont have the money to respray it once it is done (It will be done at a later date)
I might ask steve if i can have a look at his truck. It is a similar set up as I remember. And i will check out 4x4 action
Cheers
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Yea I have sorted it out. I am going to stick with the existing design but im not going to attach it to the body, instead i am going straigh through the floor to the chassis. I am just drawing out all my bends on big pieces of card ready for bending. First job will be the sliders which will be to be heavily reinforced.
I am also going to run the cage by ORANZ to get the big OK
I am also going to run the cage by ORANZ to get the big OK