Jerry's new truck

Starting a project or modification? Then post it's progress here and show us some pic's.
User avatar
DieselBoy
Hard Yaka
Posts: 4568
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:00 pm

Post by DieselBoy »

smurf182 wrote:
DieselBoy wrote:Set aside $1200 for a new head. It is only a matter of time untill it will need one. They ALL crack. Makes no difference what year, its a Toyota thing.


Not quite. They're prone to cracking if overheated. I know of plenty of 2.4 Surfs still on their stock heads after 200,000+ kays. Maintain the cooling system properly as you should do on any vehicle and you will be fine. I'd have it pressure tested to ensure it's not already cracked, never know what the previous owner was like.

The procedure for ensuring 2L-T/E reliability is this:

Rectify any leaks/perished hoses.
Have the system pressure flushed by a decent rad shop (garden hose pressure will not remove all rust).
Install new radiator cap with correct pressure rating.
Install new thermostat, Tridon brand.
Check condition of viscous fan.
Install big bore exhaust (lower backpressure = lower EGTs. More power too.)
Install intercooler (lower charge temp = higher charge density = lower EGTs. More power too.)


Hehe, its been a hotley debated topic on ORE for years :wink:

My opinion (based on the amount of these engines that suffer from cracked heads) is over time, through the expansion and contraction of the head through ordinary operation of the engine, the heads crack as they are poorly designed. Over heating just speeds this process up.

Must agree though, the mod's you listed will do alot to prevent it happening. Heat is the killer, and if you can get the EGT's down, they are more likely to hang in there for longer.

Just don't over heat it!!!!
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
User avatar
smurf182
Hard Yaka
Posts: 590
Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Auckland

Post by smurf182 »

Lol, and in saying all that mine cracked in the hands of the previous owner, so now has a 3L head.

I forgot to add to that list, buy an after market temp gauge.

I think that's all.. :lol:

Though an easier solution would probably be

1) Remove 2L-TE

2) Insert 1UZ
User avatar
Jerry
Yes Dear
Posts: 8325
Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Wellington 027 479 2417

Post by Jerry »

Andrew had a good look over it, waterpump is first on the list as is thermostat and new hoses, radiator looks ok but will be taken to a radiator place to be checked. he has done the water pressure test and the head leak test as well....looks ok. I know the history of the truck from the previous owner as well. Big bore exaust is pretty high up the list as well....Those nasty electric hubs need sorting pretty quick as well :oops:

First impressions......plenty of power, the rugger was quicker but this has lower gearing/diffs etc which is better offroad, coils are a nice change....the dash has more light and beeps than the enterprise :roll: , Been using it the last 3 days....zippy wee truck.......even with the OME springs theres a wee bit of body roll which I need to get used to.....similar to the Grand Vitara .....but with stiffer suspension.

Every panel except the roof is dented :lol: by the previous owner......not really bothered as its not the shiny truck and its going to get more dented :roll: . Andrew says I can join his cruiser team when the 37's go on it :roll:

Will ask more questions about some of the mods soon :lol:
70 series prado (KZJ78) and 90 Series Prado (KZJ95)
User avatar
Jerry
Yes Dear
Posts: 8325
Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Wellington 027 479 2417

Post by Jerry »

PS its sitting on 212000k at the moment, temp guage seems ok and I'm not aware that its had any head swop :lol:
70 series prado (KZJ78) and 90 Series Prado (KZJ95)
User avatar
mroffroader
Hard Yaka
Posts: 2330
Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Lower Hutt WELLINGTON :D
Contact:

Post by mroffroader »

Jerry wrote:Every panel except the roof is dented :lol:


DUM!!! every panel including the roof on the disco is dented!!! sorry jerry it's not a manley truck anymore. Go jump on the roof and I may reconsider
80 series tow bus towing a redneck ass vitara :D
User avatar
Mattman
Hard Yaka
Posts: 1643
Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Kapiti

Post by Mattman »

Toyota gauges are pretty poor, if the temp gauge ever gets to hot then it's all over rover.

I have an aftermarket gauge in mine as well as the factory gauge and the difference is incredible.

Matt.
User avatar
DieselBoy
Hard Yaka
Posts: 4568
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:00 pm

Post by DieselBoy »

Toyata temp gauges generally read 3 positions:

Cold

Normal

Cracked head

They are electronically damped, so normal opperating temp, when the needle is at the center point of the gauge, is from around 75 to 100 degrees C. From there its aquick jump to the red line, and its all over for the head more often than not.

Thats why an aftermarket gauge is recommended, as it gives you an accurate and real time reading of what is happening.

On the safari I have put a mechanical gauge that takes its reading from the water jacket at the back of the block, and left the factory gauge reading the temp at the thermostat housing. Its quiet interesting as the two readings can vary considerably!!!!!

I would thinks its the block temp thats important to keeping the head in one piece maybe???? So may want to try a temp gauge in the back of the block 8)
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
User avatar
Jerry
Yes Dear
Posts: 8325
Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Wellington 027 479 2417

Post by Jerry »

Well I've broken it already :lol: :lol: :lol: First serious bit of mud at Aotea today and I kill one or both of the factory dodgy electric hibs :lol: :lol: :lol: ...

Don't really care as they were going to be changed anyway and better there than out in the sticks somewhere. :lol:
70 series prado (KZJ78) and 90 Series Prado (KZJ95)
User avatar
Sadam_Husain
Angry bird
Posts: 5164
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: WELLINGTON

Post by Sadam_Husain »

Jerry wrote:Well I've broken it already :lol: :lol: :lol: First serious bit of mud at Aotea today and I kill one or both of the factory dodgy electric hibs :lol: :lol: :lol: ...



somehow I don't think those electric hubs were working before you got there :?

But a nice looking truck all the same jerry 8)
User avatar
jdeburgh
Hard Yaka
Posts: 209
Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Feilding
Contact:

Post by jdeburgh »

Sadam_Husain wrote:
Jerry wrote:Well I've broken it already :lol: :lol: :lol: First serious bit of mud at Aotea today and I kill one or both of the factory dodgy electric hibs :lol: :lol: :lol: ...



somehow I don't think those electric hubs were working before you got there :?

But a nice looking truck all the same jerry 8)


Talk to MarkR about hubs...

John
-Vehicle: Rangie - 4 Wheels, 3 doors, Engine, Gearbox, other whirly bits, Steering wheel, Radio, Seats, Pedal that makes noise, pedal thats stops it, and pedal that helps stop the crunching noise when using the gear lever.
http://www.feilding4x4.org
User avatar
Cloggy_NZ
Texas Chainsaw
Posts: 663
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:00 pm
Location: Wainuiomata

Post by Cloggy_NZ »

Jerry wrote:Well I've broken it already :lol: :lol: :lol: First serious bit of mud at Aotea today and I kill one or both of the factory dodgy electric hibs :lol: :lol: :lol: ...

Don't really care as they were going to be changed anyway and better there than out in the sticks somewhere. :lol:


Crikey :shock:
And you have got the cheek to give Land Rovers a ribbing. After all I have read in the posts above I am glad I drive a Land Rover :lol:
1992 Land Rover Discovery V8i, 5 speed, 12000lbs winch, Salisbury rear, 110 front, 65mm spring lift, dents in every panel, Rallywoods pinstriping.
Image
User avatar
warlord225
Hard Yaka
Posts: 243
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Wellington

Post by warlord225 »

so are we cloggy, or else who would we give stick to about driving one
User avatar
DieselBoy
Hard Yaka
Posts: 4568
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:00 pm

Post by DieselBoy »

Jerry wrote:Well I've broken it already :lol: :lol: :lol: First serious bit of mud at Aotea today and I kill one or both of the factory dodgy electric hibs :lol: :lol: :lol: ...

Don't really care as they were going to be changed anyway and better there than out in the sticks somewhere. :lol:


PM OldBlue, he has a simple method for coverting the Toyota electric hubs to manual operation.

Link to the secret conversion files :wink:

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules ... _album.php
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
User avatar
IcedJohnno
Trailer Trash
Posts: 821
Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:00 pm
Location: Christchurch nr the hills

Post by IcedJohnno »

Jerry
Welcome to the world of SWB Prados.
There is nothing wrong with the electric hubs, in fact they are actually stronger than, I think, any of the aftermarket ones. Mine have lasted 157 k so far including 80k driven by me of which 25% is off-road.
The problem with them is the carbon brushes that drive the wee motors. When people reassemble them after having been beyond them into the hubs, they often dislodge the correct position of them. They should be reassembled with a small piece of wire holding the brushes up as the units are installed, then the wires can be pulled out allowing the brushes to settle in their correct position.

I too would suggest getting OldBlues mod, something I have yet to do.

In terms of the inevitable head demise, all the 4cyl turbo diesel Toyo engines do this. I think the design brief did not include foot-up-it driving with trailers behind. I have only tonight just driven for an hour down from the hills sitting between 100 to 140 k's with my trailer behind :D The great thing about the Prado is you don't really notice any handling difference with the trailer on.

I digress, back to heads. Two months ago when my 1kz-te head went, we had a good look at the cooling system and eventually only replaced the top plastic radiator tank as a precaution, (they crack with age.) They cleaned out the core but it was actually fine to start with. Yet when Diesel Pumps stripped out the injectors the sealing washers showed signs of having got way too hot.

My point is these motors don't have to get the cooling system hot to get the aluminium head to fatigue crack. The internal combustion temperatures reached under sustained high load but slow revs (I.E. Lugging) or sustained load at high revs (I.E. my driving home late tonight) cause a temperature build up that the water galleries within the head are not capable of removing quickly enough to maintain the correct internal temps.

The advise I have been given is
1) Remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system (EGR) - who wants to shit in their own nest anyway :shock: Adding hot exhaust gases to the inlet system can only add heat to the engine.

2) Fit a Pyrometer (Exhaust gas temperature gauge), best place is in the manifold prior to the turbo BUT you need to do this with the Ex Manifold off the engine/turbo - swarf is nasty on turbine vanes. Other place is just after the turbo but temp readings are about 100 degrees lower.

3) Fit a low back pressure exhaust system, 2.5" or bigger in your case, 3" in my case. You need to do this all the way from the turbo. My race tuning shop mates tell me there are big gains to be had on the 2lt turbo outlet casting because the factory outlet is incredably restrictive. This means dismantling the turbo, so not always everyones cup of tea. The exhaust system also needs to include a low back pressure muffler. The plus of all this work is that the turbo spools up much quicker giving a lot more responce and a flatter torque curve which is great off-road.

4) If like me ,your right foot is made of lead, fit an intercooler. It seems from other threads on here that Nissan Silvia ones do the job, as do Subbie ones.

In terms of Toyota gauges, whilst my engine was apart I took the trouble to get my oil pressure and water temp gauges along with the actual sender units checked by Parrots in Christchurch. I and later Mike have bought our Pyros from Parrots as well. The outcome of this was that the gauges read fine BUT the range of movement between 75 and 110 degrees is minimal.
When I find that roundtuit I shall post a thread along with some photos on this subject.
ENJOY YOUR PRADO
Cheers John
User avatar
Jerry
Yes Dear
Posts: 8325
Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Wellington 027 479 2417

Post by Jerry »

The 2 x 2kg fire extingishers arrived today, just picked them up, one is going in the Zuk to replace the 1kg in it Zuk, the 1kg will go in the front of the Prado within easy reach....the other 2kg will live in the rear of the Prado.

Got some axle stub thingys of Turoa which apparantly fit, just organised some aisan manual hubs, need to have a look and see if these can be made to fit.

Rated Hooks are next....2 on each end......

Need to figure out how to carry all my crap in the back ie a box or something,
70 series prado (KZJ78) and 90 Series Prado (KZJ95)
User avatar
wjw
Hard Yaka
Posts: 3420
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2004 12:00 pm
Location: Christchurch
Contact:

Post by wjw »

A 2kg, fits great on its side mounted to the back side of the centre console, on the floor in the back. mines been there for years... no issues so far
-----------------------
Who knew Prados could fly?
User avatar
elmojerry
Stropper
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 12:00 pm
Location: in a reserve, making mud

Post by elmojerry »

hey jerry! I just bought your old rugga but can ya tell me who fitted the hooks? i need some more... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Image
User avatar
Handbrake
Black Pudding
Posts: 146
Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Tawa, Wellington
Contact:

Post by Handbrake »

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Ha ha ha ha! That is really funny! Well done!
User avatar
Ryan
Hard Yaka
Posts: 1187
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: kapiti

Post by Ryan »

Jerry wrote:
Need to figure out how to carry all my crap in the back ie a box or something,


hey jerry i have that box frm the back of my nissan if your interested??
94 nissan terrano 2inch susp lift, 3inch body lift, 33x12.5x15 maxxis bighorns
User avatar
mroffroader
Hard Yaka
Posts: 2330
Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Lower Hutt WELLINGTON :D
Contact:

Post by mroffroader »

BWAHAHAHAHAHA SHOT ELMOJERRY!!!!
80 series tow bus towing a redneck ass vitara :D
Bubba
Hard Yaka
Posts: 1742
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 12:00 pm
Location: Wellington

Post by Bubba »

hHREHEHEHAHAHA JUST ABOUT PISSIN MYSELF
Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
Benjamin Franklin
User avatar
Ryan
Hard Yaka
Posts: 1187
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: kapiti

Post by Ryan »

wasnt there more hooks on it?? :wink:
Last edited by Ryan on Wed May 02, 2007 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
94 nissan terrano 2inch susp lift, 3inch body lift, 33x12.5x15 maxxis bighorns
User avatar
turoa
Pyro Junior
Posts: 3112
Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2005 12:00 pm

Post by turoa »

It doesnt look like they have rated bolts?
Bubba
Hard Yaka
Posts: 1742
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 12:00 pm
Location: Wellington

Post by Bubba »

Careful Ryan this mite outdo your "Bullshit" thread
Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
Benjamin Franklin
User avatar
elmojerry
Stropper
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 12:00 pm
Location: in a reserve, making mud

Post by elmojerry »

turoa wrote:It doesnt look like they have rated bolts?


Nah, they're superglude on... 1 drop holds a ton! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
User avatar
mike
Last minute Mike
Posts: 3545
Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2002 12:00 pm
Location: Christchurch - The place I'd like to be

Post by mike »

elmojerry wrote:
turoa wrote:It doesnt look like they have rated bolts?


Nah, they're superglude on... 1 drop holds a ton! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


And let me guess you put 8 drops on each equalling 8 tons which is 10000lbs which equals rated mounts right :lol:

Mike
1973 SWB Land Rover V8 Hybrid
1994 Toyota Surf
User avatar
elmojerry
Stropper
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 12:00 pm
Location: in a reserve, making mud

Post by elmojerry »

mike wrote:
elmojerry wrote:
turoa wrote:It doesnt look like they have rated bolts?


Nah, they're superglude on... 1 drop holds a ton! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


And let me guess you put 8 drops on each equalling 8 tons which is 10000lbs which equals rated mounts right :lol:

Mike


:?: jerry put them on for me... i brought it like that... he said hooks were really important and u could never have to many...
User avatar
Cloggy_NZ
Texas Chainsaw
Posts: 663
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:00 pm
Location: Wainuiomata

Post by Cloggy_NZ »

mike wrote:
And let me guess you put 8 drops on each equalling 8 tons which is 10000lbs which equals rated mounts right :lol:

Mike


8 tons doesn't equal 10000lbs which is the crazy thing in all these tow hook debates. We are using snatch strops with an 8 ton rating on hooks which are only rated to 4536kg or 4.536 ton.
1992 Land Rover Discovery V8i, 5 speed, 12000lbs winch, Salisbury rear, 110 front, 65mm spring lift, dents in every panel, Rallywoods pinstriping.
Image
User avatar
Cloggy_NZ
Texas Chainsaw
Posts: 663
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:00 pm
Location: Wainuiomata

Post by Cloggy_NZ »

I guess I should add "supposedly 8 tons" and "supposedly 10000lbs" as I myself have a 10000lbs hook which has survived three 8 ton straps already.
Might be time to replace this hook before the next trip :?
1992 Land Rover Discovery V8i, 5 speed, 12000lbs winch, Salisbury rear, 110 front, 65mm spring lift, dents in every panel, Rallywoods pinstriping.
Image
User avatar
Jerry
Yes Dear
Posts: 8325
Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 12:00 pm
Location: Wellington 027 479 2417

Post by Jerry »

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Technically this is Mr O's thread so he's going to get stroppy now its been hijacked :roll: :roll: :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol:
70 series prado (KZJ78) and 90 Series Prado (KZJ95)
Post Reply

Return to “Projects / Mod's”