Wheels are available now and maybe has some shocks floating round if your stuck for them....
THE 50
Few more updated pics
It was pissing down and i had to get it in the shed as soon as i could (bare steel and rain
) so the pic's aren't the best, but you get the idea
New Cross Member to support the main hoop. Should be good to mount my shocks from and the fuel tank
New rear cross member with tow hook brackets. We decided to push the cage right out to the corners of the rear to act as part of the structure of the deck/tray to add strength and protection. The rear stays look a bit odd at the moment, but once the deck is on there they will be fine
Front hoop just sandwich plated, but directly above the body mounts in the out riggers. Apparently my floor pan replacement job met the grade
Can't wait untill i get back from the Sth Island and get the deck made and all the little jobs done!!!!
It was pissing down and i had to get it in the shed as soon as i could (bare steel and rain
New Cross Member to support the main hoop. Should be good to mount my shocks from and the fuel tank
New rear cross member with tow hook brackets. We decided to push the cage right out to the corners of the rear to act as part of the structure of the deck/tray to add strength and protection. The rear stays look a bit odd at the moment, but once the deck is on there they will be fine
Front hoop just sandwich plated, but directly above the body mounts in the out riggers. Apparently my floor pan replacement job met the grade
Can't wait untill i get back from the Sth Island and get the deck made and all the little jobs done!!!!
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
Yeah. Contentious issue that one. The cage doesn't need it for my purposes. I have no intention of rolling 6 times from the top of a hill
No, seriously though, its a requirement for National Trials, but there are two differing schools of thought on the diagonal brace.
One is that the diagonal brace makes the cage way to ridged and causes injury through it not being able to give and absorb some of the energy.
The other is that the you need the diagonal brace as it strengthens up the cage and it is less likely to deform.
My thoughts at this time are that i would rather have the cage give and not damage my chassis or me through it being to ridged. If/when i get all crazy and give it a transplant and new running gear, i will make a bolt in diagonal brace to keep the scrutineers happy, and that way i don't have to have it in all the time
No, seriously though, its a requirement for National Trials, but there are two differing schools of thought on the diagonal brace.
One is that the diagonal brace makes the cage way to ridged and causes injury through it not being able to give and absorb some of the energy.
The other is that the you need the diagonal brace as it strengthens up the cage and it is less likely to deform.
My thoughts at this time are that i would rather have the cage give and not damage my chassis or me through it being to ridged. If/when i get all crazy and give it a transplant and new running gear, i will make a bolt in diagonal brace to keep the scrutineers happy, and that way i don't have to have it in all the time
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
- Rotazuk
- Hard Yaka
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This is the said Daihatsu . 1 and a bit roll , ended on its side I think . Note how far over the drivers side cage is , you can clearly see the seat behind the hoops . the photo does not do it justise .
How many more injuries would have been sustained if it went over again .
It may be a rougher ride but I will always have a rear brace .
In contrast here is the damage sustained to my cage after 3 ( ok possibly 4 ) rolls down a hill , and yes I had a bit of a sore neck afterwards but thats all .
Back on topic , looking very cool . Nice job .
Cheers
Chris
How many more injuries would have been sustained if it went over again .
It may be a rougher ride but I will always have a rear brace .
In contrast here is the damage sustained to my cage after 3 ( ok possibly 4 ) rolls down a hill , and yes I had a bit of a sore neck afterwards but thats all .
Back on topic , looking very cool . Nice job .
Cheers
Chris
Wow, my build thread was looking like it was at risk of droppin off the first page. Thought i had better give it an update
Bought this the other day for $30 (just the flat deck not the truck):
I got all crazy and chopped 300mm of the width and 920mm of thelength and ended up with this:
Started on the sides:
The sides are actually finished and welded on, but i forgot to grab a photo
Tomorrow's Mission:
Tailgate, mount fuel tank, make spare wheel carrier under the deck and put the plywood on the deck
Bought this the other day for $30 (just the flat deck not the truck):
I got all crazy and chopped 300mm of the width and 920mm of thelength and ended up with this:
Started on the sides:
The sides are actually finished and welded on, but i forgot to grab a photo
Tomorrow's Mission:
Tailgate, mount fuel tank, make spare wheel carrier under the deck and put the plywood on the deck
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
lilpigzuk wrote:wickedWill get a fund going too see it at rallywoods dude
Rims are the issue at the moment
If anyone finds some 15 X 7 5 stud rims with a -10 offset when there browsing trademe or what ever, lemme know!!!! Best price new i have found has been $68 per rim!!!
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
toymudlux wrote:was meaning the red one .
the Simex's are way too big and on farmer would pay that much for tires...
just kidding , how biga feet are you gonna go with the 50 ..
Well now you've opened a can of worms..............................
I might as well post up whats happening on that front incase it helps someone out in the future.
I've got that many options, and taken on board that many different opinions
I put a 31 X 10.5 under it yesterday and it fits just fine. Looks like a 36" on a cruiser
BUT, I they are to big for the little power plant to turn. (don't wanna be stalling up hills in first low)
So 30 X 9.5's are the pick. That way rims are easy, i can grab some 15 X 7 rims with a -10 off the shelf and its all sorted.
Trouble there is i can only run something like a general M/T tyre, Kumho etc etc
Simex don't have that size, but do a 29 X 7.5. Catch there is i can't get a 15 X 6 rim off the shelf with a -10 off set
To run the Simex, i have to get some rims doctored. I have a set of standard Zuk rims off a SJ410/413 that are 15 X 5.5 that i could get the centers reversed on. So i bolted one on backwareds yesterday to have a look. Still not going to be enough offset and with the centers reversed and would leave the brakes out in the open. If i spent the $$ geting the centers reversed, I will have a set of rims with a limited range of tyres that would fit them though.
Another option is a set of Daihatsu Feroza rims i have. They are 15 X 6. Would still need to get the centers reversed, and they look like they could possibly sit in the right place offset wiseb when reversed. I could also run 31 X 10.5's on thise rims if i wanted in the future. Need to do some more measuring with those.
Yet another option is to just get a set of off the shelf 15 X 7 rims, and try and get some Super Swampers, i think they have 30 X 9.5 in their range.
My preferred choice is to hold out and try and figure out some rims to run the 29 X 7.5 Simex's.
Simex do a 31 X 9.5 Ex Trek, but that measures at over 32", so just way to big
Be interesting to see what i actually do end up with
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
im running a set of 31x10.5 s on my LJ, they just wont fit under the guards and limit suspension travel. on the 15" rims my truck came with the tyres rubbed on the chassis in the back and on the leaves up front,just put the rims on backwards and its not too bad. looks like skinny is best with an LJ though
Todays Progress:
Accelerator cable made and hooked up
Clutch hooked up and working
Gear lever return spring made and fitted
Roll Cage painted
Deck coated with under body sealer and then painted
Fuel tank mounts welded in place
Spare wheel holder made and welded in under the deck
Starter motor stripped, cleaned, reassembled and tested
AND FINALLY DECIDED WHAT TO DO WITH RIMS
The rims in the pic are borrowed from Nath for a test fit. Just standard SJ410/413 rims, with 30 X 9.5 General Grabbers. They sit fractionally out side the guards with the 30 X 9.5's, and the tyre size looks comfortable on the little truck, so i will get the centers reversed on my set of rims to increase of the offset a bit more, and then do some more tyre hunting
Accelerator cable made and hooked up
Clutch hooked up and working
Gear lever return spring made and fitted
Roll Cage painted
Deck coated with under body sealer and then painted
Fuel tank mounts welded in place
Spare wheel holder made and welded in under the deck
Starter motor stripped, cleaned, reassembled and tested
AND FINALLY DECIDED WHAT TO DO WITH RIMS
The rims in the pic are borrowed from Nath for a test fit. Just standard SJ410/413 rims, with 30 X 9.5 General Grabbers. They sit fractionally out side the guards with the 30 X 9.5's, and the tyre size looks comfortable on the little truck, so i will get the centers reversed on my set of rims to increase of the offset a bit more, and then do some more tyre hunting
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
Thats the first drive of the vehicle
Wasn't all that great though,by the time i got back it wouldn't idle, and when it stopped i could hear the fuel pump still pumping flat out. Took me a couple of seconds to figure out that the needle valve must have jammed open. Thought i had better just check, so i pulled off the air intake just to make sure. Fuel was gushing out of the float bowl over flow.
Wipped the carb off and stripped it down, found a piece of that orange gasket sealent in the needle valve. Blew the other jets out as best i could.
Got the valve workin and spent about and hour tryin to get the engine started again with god knows how much raw fuel sitting in the crank case
Took it for another drive, still no idle, so stripped the carb again. More red gasket sealent, but in the float bowl. Buggered if i could find where its coming from. My thoughts are that it could be coming out of the fuel filter, its old and been sitting in a box for YEARS, but has never been used, so could be the glue that holds that filter element to the canister or something breaking down.
Threw back together again,took for another drive, still no good, so i'm taking the carb in to get looked at again tomorrow. The crap must have got into somewhere tricky to get
Other than that, it goes alright, need to fit the fan so i can take it for a decent spin
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
- IcedJohnno
- Trailer Trash
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- Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:00 pm
- Location: Christchurch nr the hills
By orange gasket sealer do you mean something like Loctite 510 gasket eliminator or do you mean your typical Silicone RTV sealant?
By the look of your skills I suspect you will know this, but I will relate the story anyway.
I had trouble years ago with Petrol and Silicone sealers. The fuel line ended up looking like a spastic worm in a copper tube. Took a lot of work to remove AAALLL of it too! The fuel was air pressure fed, about 2psi but the worm was the length of the vehicle, 10ft. Amazing really as there was not really a lot of RTV used to start with.
510 or 515 on the other hand are not affected by what we call petrol. At the time we re-sealed the dia. 120 fuel filler housing and used the Loctite 515. Have had no more problems since. That was 20 years ago, since then the car has competed in 4 differing countries on both sides of the world, winning race events in each country.
Well done for getting the "Screamer" going. Also known in my past as the "Sewing Machine"
When I was a kid, down where I still play the FRI, Forest Research Institute used to use these machines. After the big dumps of snow my old man would borrow these Screamers to drive up our road to get to the 'dozer to clear the road before the snow set. The technique even on those narrow 16's was to thrash the livin daylights out of them, ah aren’t Govt vehicles so capable
, and get the Screamers up on the plane. With enough speed and cos they are so light we could be two up and drive up near the top of a 1 to 1.25 m snow layer. I still have vivid memories of the fast driving, high pitched sewing machine like noise and of course Dads grin.
By the look of your skills I suspect you will know this, but I will relate the story anyway.
I had trouble years ago with Petrol and Silicone sealers. The fuel line ended up looking like a spastic worm in a copper tube. Took a lot of work to remove AAALLL of it too! The fuel was air pressure fed, about 2psi but the worm was the length of the vehicle, 10ft. Amazing really as there was not really a lot of RTV used to start with.
510 or 515 on the other hand are not affected by what we call petrol. At the time we re-sealed the dia. 120 fuel filler housing and used the Loctite 515. Have had no more problems since. That was 20 years ago, since then the car has competed in 4 differing countries on both sides of the world, winning race events in each country.
Well done for getting the "Screamer" going. Also known in my past as the "Sewing Machine"
When I was a kid, down where I still play the FRI, Forest Research Institute used to use these machines. After the big dumps of snow my old man would borrow these Screamers to drive up our road to get to the 'dozer to clear the road before the snow set. The technique even on those narrow 16's was to thrash the livin daylights out of them, ah aren’t Govt vehicles so capable

