Hi all, mine is a mazda bounty ute
Recently i gave it a new set of rear leaf springs with 50mm
lift, then i moved to the front end in an attempt to level things up
problem being with I F S the tortion bar is the only adjustment and is now
sitting on its drop stops . This gives a terrible ride and no articulation that direction .
>> PLEASE HELP all sugestions welcome
>>
Suspension mod
Buy a real truck!! Just kidding, i know a guy with a later model one of these and he is having trouble lifting it to. I think he has left the suspension pretty much standard and done a body lift. He is running 32" tires and can just fit chains on the rear, not a hope on the front tough. All i can think of would be to set your torsion bars so you just touch your top stop when the wheel is fully compressed. And have fun, they are quite capabile for a mazda 
be very careful fitting bigger diameter tyres to your truck especially if this is a late model bounty as thay are very weak in the front CV'S trust me i work at a mazda dealership and we would have changed about 4 left hand side cv's and half shaft's last month ( thay tend to SNAP the half shaft a lot ) and this fault happens on vehicles that run the factory size tyres i would hate to see how long thay would last on bigger size tyres . but this is just my 2 cents . as for your susp.. lift you could get really dodgy and fit smaller bump stops .
Have done it on both a Surf and a Terrano, but not a Bounty.
You gotta appreciate giving 15mm more movement at the top of the A-arms where they join the chassis, translates to over twice that amount of movement extra out at the wheel, depending on the distance from the bump stop to the furtherest point away from it.
5th form maths stuff.
May have issues with CV angles.
You gotta appreciate giving 15mm more movement at the top of the A-arms where they join the chassis, translates to over twice that amount of movement extra out at the wheel, depending on the distance from the bump stop to the furtherest point away from it.
5th form maths stuff.
May have issues with CV angles.
lax2wlg wrote:Is that like saying 'she's hot, for a crackwhore??
This guy has never had any trouble with cv's or shafts, but he takes it pretty easy and doesn't thrash his truck, As for gear ratio's it seems to move along just fine, i haven't driven it but he can make it move when he wants. I have cut bump stops in half as well and had no trouble, as long as there is some rubber there your are fine, I personally would only cut the bottom stops, but thats up to you. As for the body lift i wouldn't have a clue who would do it up there, I'm in invercargill. He had no problems raising it 20mm, but any more than this and you could have trouble. All you need for the lift is some nylon the thickness you want to lift, 75mm hole saw and a drill press or 70 to 80mm nylon round stock and a lathe, and some longer bolts. They are not too hard to put in.
Hope all this helps.
Hope all this helps.
Body lift
Body lift, i,m now ready is it really as easy as cutting out some 20mm nylon spacers undoing the old bolts slipping in the spacers and replacing current bolts with 20mm longer ones ?
Any further advice would be great ...
Any further advice would be great ...
Usually it sure is, in some cases you don't even need longer bolts. A few things you need to consider are the fan shrowd, steering linkages and any solid piping from the body to the chassis. Since you are only going 20mm only the fan shrowd may be a problem, nothing a grinder won't fix, I'm not sure how high my mate when but it would have been at last 20mm, and he had no major problems, just take your time when you lift the body, do one side at a time, look everywhere before, during and after and don't over tighten the mounts when you reassemble, its really not very hard at all!! 