I'm jealous. Not just of your new bits and pieces but also of your drive and determination to get out there to that shed just about every night and work on the beast. You finished that build in double quick time what it normally seems to take everyone around here.
If I had half that much energy I might get some work done on my old junker. It could use some TLC.
1992 Land Rover Discovery V8i, 5 speed, 12000lbs winch, Salisbury rear, 110 front, 65mm spring lift, dents in every panel, Rallywoods pinstriping.
small problem now tho........ assumption.....the mother of all f$@k ups.....
short side axle to short
so its going together with a standard short side cv and axle and longfield long side...locker is all in and bolted up.when i get the right length short side axle i will pop that in.just have to carry a couple spare cv's with me still
so the upshot of this learning exersise is.
60 series cruiser has the same length long side axle as a beam axle hilux but the short side axle is about65mm longer on the 60 series cruiser...... bit of info there for young players like me
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
went up thompsons with a couple mates (pete,dan,dwayne,andy) just to take the new donk for a run...and run it does that thing has some berries love it. managed to get up to the top and back with out any real dramas,no overheating,diddnt pop the standard c.v,and it runs on moderate angles,and as long as the foot is in it it runs on very steep angles as well
very happy
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
Jafa wrote:Good work Wop, all you need now is an SNR Hi Steer setup
you do me a demon deal and you can have a spot for a big ass sticker on my truck mate a set of your hi steer arms would be right at home on my 40 and good advertising to
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
having some issues with my brake master cylinder.... bled it countless times and still the pedal goes to the floor when its running and has vacume to the booster think i may have a tipped cup or incorect rod(plunger) length.... also anyone who has a 60 series cruiser, can you tell me which port is supposed to feed front and rear lines ? i thought the rear port was for front line and front port for rear line ?.....
might just have to pull it off and give it a cup and seal kit
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
went outside in the dark and crawled under my truck to dodge the rain and have a quick look
my 70# has the front going to the front and the rear going to the rear... but, being a cab/chassis the front line also goes off to the load equaliser thingy at the rear of the truck to adjust the front/rear braking ratio when the trucks carrying a heavy load of deer carcases
Sadam_Husain wrote:went outside in the dark and crawled under my truck to dodge the rain and have a quick look
my 70# has the front going to the front and the rear going to the rear... but, being a cab/chassis the front line also goes off to the load equaliser thingy at the rear of the truck to adjust the front/rear braking ratio when the trucks carrying a heavy load of deer carcases
cheers dude.
so does this mean i should take a week off before rallywoods and come down with the rifle and go get some meat ? sounds good
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
Sadam_Husain wrote:went outside in the dark and crawled under my truck to dodge the rain and have a quick look
my 70# has the front going to the front and the rear going to the rear... but, being a cab/chassis the front line also goes off to the load equaliser thingy at the rear of the truck to adjust the front/rear braking ratio when the trucks carrying a heavy load of deer carcases
cheers dude.
so does this mean i should take a week off before rallywoods and come down with the rifle and go get some meat ? sounds good
Pick me up on the way past, Ben, you know you need me to help find the deer, and shoot it for you.
I have the same issue as you Wopass. (brakes that is).
You can bleed the system lots of times and get the peadl really hard, and then when the engines is started and the vacum boost comes on, it all dissapears inton the floor.
I have changed master cylinders 3 times and the brake booster twice, still does it though. If you get it sorted let me know how dude.
Ugly is a state of mind..... and the state of my truck!
rokhound wrote:I have the same issue as you Wopass. (brakes that is). You can bleed the system lots of times and get the peadl really hard, and then when the engines is started and the vacum boost comes on, it all dissapears inton the floor. I have changed master cylinders 3 times and the brake booster twice, still does it though. If you get it sorted let me know how dude.
do your brakes still work pretty good tho ? just when you push down hard you can get the pedal to the floor ? my brakes seem to work pretty good but very soft spongy pedal when running im wondering if there is too much vacum to the booster ? im going to try restricting the line and see what that does to it.
let you know how i get on
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
well after many queries to a few people and them all saying the same thing "BOOSTER" i swappedmaster cyl and booster off an 80 series (ohh hell yea !) and i have absolutely fukin amazing brakes now ! the booster is bigger and the master cyl is 1" bore insted of the 7/8 60 series cylinder.
now i have the GO ! and the WOAH !
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
rokhound wrote:I have the same issue as you Wopass. (brakes that is). You can bleed the system lots of times and get the peadl really hard, and then when the engines is started and the vacum boost comes on, it all dissapears inton the floor. I have changed master cylinders 3 times and the brake booster twice, still does it though. If you get it sorted let me know how dude.
did you get second hand boosters ? do they fit propperly ? maybe they were buggered ones that you swapped onto it ?
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
Master cylinder that is in there now is 1" bore and brand new.
Booster,s were 2nd hand, and knowing my luck, all rooted.
How muchie was an 80 series job Wop?. That sounds like the go (or whoa, if you want to be pedantic ).
Ugly is a state of mind..... and the state of my truck!
rokhound wrote:Master cylinder that is in there now is 1" bore and brand new. Booster,s were 2nd hand, and knowing my luck, all rooted. How muchie was an 80 series job Wop?. That sounds like the go (or whoa, if you want to be pedantic ).
check with lineside ( or cruiser spares )down there mate they are bound to have one
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
jumper wrote:where did you get the pipe you used for the intake on top of the carb ?
made it
was a piece of stainless sheet when i started,rolled it into the right diameter to fit the top of the carb,then welded a cap on top and a tube off the side and hey presto a cool as carb top thingy
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
truck seems to be using a fair amount of gas..... only managed to get about 6.5k per litre.....thats if my distance calc is close fkn GPS turned itself off so i dont know....
might have to look at putting a second port in my air filter cap with another pod on it...might be not enough air flow creating a huge vacume making it suck the gas.....
work in progress
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
i would be happy with 6.5k,s per litre, at the moment we are getting about 1.5k,s per litre, it is running too rich, the timing is advanced too much, it has to go to dunedin for a dyno, i wouldnt take it to anyone down here, so i will persevere until i can get it up there
are you running a link with a base 1uz tune? thats what mine is and it almost as thirsty as that too. the fun makes it worth it tho. let me know how the dyno goes.
My 327 small block 40 was cheaper on gas the the standard 4.2 Cruza mtr....?? If ya rev it wll cost ya .... HaHa... mine had a 600 holly and cam... what are you useing ?