Safari tune up(hair dryer install)

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Shane
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Post by Shane »

some more pics.turbo mounted.dump pipe mock up.

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Shane
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Post by Shane »

all but finished,pluming all sorted,3 inch dump pipe connected to std 2 inch exhast at this stage.only boosts about 5pis due to exhast restricition but still goes not bad.


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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

thats impressive i like the filter set up

very neat and tidy good work
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tgaguy1
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Post by tgaguy1 »

Shane, have you used the n/a exhaust manifold and made an adaptor off the bottom? If so how well does it work? Have you got any photos of it closer up showing details?
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DaveM
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Post by DaveM »

tgaguy1 wrote:Shane, have you used the n/a exhaust manifold and made an adaptor off the bottom? If so how well does it work? Have you got any photos of it closer up showing details?


x2
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

if you guys want me to make a similer j pipe to turbo i can
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DaveM
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Post by DaveM »

safari_mulisha wrote:if you guys want me to make a similer j pipe to turbo i can


I'm not too familiar with the turbo setups, can you have a wategate on a J pipe setup, or only limit boost with the fuel?

Can the standard manifold be used for a waste gate style setup?

I guess if I went down the turbo track I'd have to miss out on my 35's :?
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

yes you can have a wastegate
you dont need one if the turbo is suited to the engine

its a quite restrictive but simple set up
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PigFmr
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Post by PigFmr »

Davem said= I guess if I went down the turbo track I'd have to miss out on my 35's :?

i am the same not sure?? but 90% sure i am going to supercharge my saf and put a hold on my 35's
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wopass
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Post by wopass »

looks bloody good mate :D what sort of extra grunt have you managed to get out of it ?
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
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Shane
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Post by Shane »

Still use the std manifold,in the pic below you can see the 2 black pipes come out the bottom of std manifold and up past the chassis.its a close fit but when sorted works well.a local repower shop has been doing this type of set up for 6+ years,he recons it flows better than std turbo manifold which is just a log with turbo on the side.
for all out power a custom tube style manifold is best.


once I get the larger exhast on I'll be able to give some my accurate feed back,only has 2" exhast at present.


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decsnz
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Post by decsnz »

GQTROL wrote:My truck and the race truck both use CT26 turbos (twin waste-gated, 6-bolt exh housing) from Celica GT-4. Ceramic exhaust wheel replaced with steel wheel and shaft. Mine has T04-E compressor and race truck uses T04-B...both trucks get along alright.



Is it necessary to replace the ceramic exhaust wheel with a steel one on the CT26?

Cheers
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GQ_TURBO
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Post by GQ_TURBO »

What RPM does she start coming on boost? when you planning on getting the exhaust done?
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GQTROL
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Post by GQTROL »

decsnz wrote:
GQTROL wrote:My truck and the race truck both use CT26 turbos (twin waste-gated, 6-bolt exh housing) from Celica GT-4. Ceramic exhaust wheel replaced with steel wheel and shaft. Mine has T04-E compressor and race truck uses T04-B...both trucks get along alright.



Is it necessary to replace the ceramic exhaust wheel with a steel one on the CT26?

Cheers


After having the ceramic exh wheel snap off the shaft on a trip to Whangamomona, I would say yes.
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron »

Nice work shane, a very tidy job :thumleft:
Toyota 70 series cruiser, 13bt
Phone 029 454 8533
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Shane
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Post by Shane »

GQ_TURBO wrote:What RPM does she start coming on boost? when you planning on getting the exhaust done?


Have fitted 2.5inch exhast with muffler(not streight through type muffler)no tail pipe yate,dumps just in front of the diff(rear diff :D )
still only 5.5psi max but goes much better and comes on earlyer than 2" exhast which well be due to better flow.
I disconnected the waste gate on fri and went for a blat doing 10-11psi :D blew the intake hose off,but was going good :twisted: (waste-gate set @ 5.5PSI which well have to sort out)
Starts to boost about 1400-1500rpm but doesnt start pulling hard to about 1800rpm.
Still sorting a few things out,hope to run 8-10psi max at this stage,using the waste-gate as the limiter not just fuel.
Have a few vibration(not that bad) problems to sort out due to my exhast brackets I hope...
All and all quite happy with the power,was never after a heap more great just make it easyer turning the 35's


Nice work shane, a very tidy job


Cheers :P

Shane
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xorph
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Post by xorph »

Hi Shane,
Im almost finished turbocharging my 1HZ landcruiser at the moment, very similar method using a J pipe. Your installation looks very proffesional and prob going to be reliable. i.e not made of fixall....
Im wondering how you are adjusting your fueling? Ive have just done a big internet search and found mostly people pretending to know what theyre doing and trying to justify why what theyve done is best.
From what I gather when turbocharging diesels is the cylinder temperatures can get out of hand if you increase fueling to near stoichometric and a way of relieveing this is to run more boost (say 10psi) and only provide enough fuel for say 7psi.
alternatively racing diesels pump in far too much fuel and the excess provides a cooling effect. Do you have any greater wisdom on this or know a good diesel specialist?
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mudhaw
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Post by mudhaw »

A 3 inch exhaust syestm is a good way to keep the heat away from the head and turbo. The faster you can get the exhaust away the better.
A piro gauge helps to see whats going on with the heat but they are quite pricey.
Also LPG can help keep the temp down. But again not cheep.
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Shane
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Post by Shane »

xorph wrote:Hi Shane,
Im almost finished turbocharging my 1HZ landcruiser at the moment, very similar method using a J pipe. Your installation looks very proffesional and prob going to be reliable. i.e not made of fixall....
Im wondering how you are adjusting your fueling? Ive have just done a big internet search and found mostly people pretending to know what theyre doing and trying to justify why what theyve done is best.
From what I gather when turbocharging diesels is the cylinder temperatures can get out of hand if you increase fueling to near stoichometric and a way of relieveing this is to run more boost (say 10psi) and only provide enough fuel for say 7psi.
alternatively racing diesels pump in far too much fuel and the excess provides a cooling effect. Do you have any greater wisdom on this or know a good diesel specialist?


Well update when i get my computer back(at repair shop)using work one now ....best I go....................

Shane
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KiwiBacon
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Re:

Post by KiwiBacon »

xorph wrote:Hi Shane,
Im almost finished turbocharging my 1HZ landcruiser at the moment, very similar method using a J pipe. Your installation looks very proffesional and prob going to be reliable. i.e not made of fixall....
Im wondering how you are adjusting your fueling? Ive have just done a big internet search and found mostly people pretending to know what theyre doing and trying to justify why what theyve done is best.
From what I gather when turbocharging diesels is the cylinder temperatures can get out of hand if you increase fueling to near stoichometric and a way of relieveing this is to run more boost (say 10psi) and only provide enough fuel for say 7psi.
alternatively racing diesels pump in far too much fuel and the excess provides a cooling effect. Do you have any greater wisdom on this or know a good diesel specialist?


Stoich on a diesel isn't far from stoich on a petrol (about 14.5 vs 14.7), but if you run richer than about 18:1 you're blowing black smoke.
Most seem to run at least 50% excess air (22:1 and leaner) to keep combusion and exhaust temps down.

To get a cooling effect, you need to run richer than stoich (just like petrols do). Don't do that.
It'll be propelled by black smoke and piss off everyone you drive past.
Quadstyle
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Re:

Post by Quadstyle »

safari_mulisha wrote:if you guys want me to make a similer j pipe to turbo i can


can you still make the J pipe setup???
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