Arc welding - what ya got, and tips...
Arc welding - what ya got, and tips...
In light of the recent MIG thread I thought I'd start an Arc one as well... what do you use, and welding tips?
I suck at arc... I have an inverter pack that will do around 140A at full noise, which works fine with 2.5 and 3.2m GP rods... I don't use it much due to having the MIG but its handy for tacking in the wind where the MIG would just fizz....
Steve
I suck at arc... I have an inverter pack that will do around 140A at full noise, which works fine with 2.5 and 3.2m GP rods... I don't use it much due to having the MIG but its handy for tacking in the wind where the MIG would just fizz....
Steve




Love the arc especially if I need to do a weld with no prep... wind up the amps to top end for the rod and burn your way through paint and oil

heres a good tip that only works with the arc & your old static glass mask...
Ever welded rusty steel or thin steel and blown a hole

if you do it this way you won't have to chip the slag till you've finished and so long as you don't go nuts and try and weld to much in one go it won't sag in or melt through.... I have a old style helmet just for doing this


Hey ruf thanks for that tip I've never bothered to listen before


Cheers Reece
a real nice cheap GP rod is the kobelco RB26 rods from blackwoods
they seem to hold a really nice arc and weld real nice
a 5kg pack of 3.2mm was under 20$
they seem to hold a really nice arc and weld real nice
a 5kg pack of 3.2mm was under 20$
Last edited by tristanp on Sun May 06, 2007 3:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Hard Yaka
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Re: helmets
coxsy wrote: youngs welders never die.
my old man has an old youngs welder in his shed still in working order doesn´t get used much nowadays though he also has a MIG both of them sitting not doing alot he said i can look after them when i get a secure shed but then i will have to get a 3 phase power and considering how often i would use it it wouldn´t be worth it
my 4wd is not a truck
old mercedes never die but sometimes they do need some love
older cars are good,mercedes are better,older mercedes are the best
old mercedes never die but sometimes they do need some love
older cars are good,mercedes are better,older mercedes are the best
- Moriarty
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Go with De_Ranged comments on welding!!
As far as an arc welder, DONT buy a new jap or Korean or Chinese one, most are alluminium windings and wont handle continuous current.
Look around for an old HEAVY one, heavy usually means copper windinigs and greater current capabiblity and great er duty cycle.
I have an old Napier built APEX marketed under the Weldlwell brand. Smooth and easy. Better than ANY Young's welder.
Rods?
Personal opinion is Phillips 28 for mild steel, Phillips 48a for Galv pipe and Phillips 56s for hi-tensile. Not the cheapest but reliable performance.
DONT buy those el cheapo rods in the plastic pakets for Supa cheep. You ALWAYS get what you pay for.
Arc is far better on heavy-section steel unless you pay heaps for a real grunty mig.
As far as an arc welder, DONT buy a new jap or Korean or Chinese one, most are alluminium windings and wont handle continuous current.
Look around for an old HEAVY one, heavy usually means copper windinigs and greater current capabiblity and great er duty cycle.
I have an old Napier built APEX marketed under the Weldlwell brand. Smooth and easy. Better than ANY Young's welder.
Rods?
Personal opinion is Phillips 28 for mild steel, Phillips 48a for Galv pipe and Phillips 56s for hi-tensile. Not the cheapest but reliable performance.
DONT buy those el cheapo rods in the plastic pakets for Supa cheep. You ALWAYS get what you pay for.
Arc is far better on heavy-section steel unless you pay heaps for a real grunty mig.
A comment on rods
I've just been out using some new rods I got given by weldwell to try out
Its a new'ish rod they are selling for low hydrogen applications (structural and hi-tensil) the rods have been double coated with flux the outside coating being a general purpose coating... baked they were just like normal low-hi's, found they were a little easier restarting if you stopped
but where they rocked was site work, cold and open for some time they welded very well especailly restarting, surprisingly good for a low-hi
I'll find out what they are and post it up for you'll
Oh and a simple tip that hasn't be discussed Baking rods... if your rods have water stains on the flux or rust on the rod then baking them in an oven for 20min at around 200C will dry them out and improve there welding a hell of alot.... anyone using Low hydrogen rods should be doing this anyway if the packet has been open any length of time
Cheers Reece
I've just been out using some new rods I got given by weldwell to try out
Its a new'ish rod they are selling for low hydrogen applications (structural and hi-tensil) the rods have been double coated with flux the outside coating being a general purpose coating... baked they were just like normal low-hi's, found they were a little easier restarting if you stopped
but where they rocked was site work, cold and open for some time they welded very well especailly restarting, surprisingly good for a low-hi
I'll find out what they are and post it up for you'll
Oh and a simple tip that hasn't be discussed Baking rods... if your rods have water stains on the flux or rust on the rod then baking them in an oven for 20min at around 200C will dry them out and improve there welding a hell of alot.... anyone using Low hydrogen rods should be doing this anyway if the packet has been open any length of time
Cheers Reece
My vote for arc welding is the "suprasurf/rokhound" method.
3 12 volt batteries hooked up to make 36 volts, some jumper-leads, a shitty old rod thats been sitting in the back of the truck for 3 years, and a glass out of a helmet.......
http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules ... _photo.php
worked a treat
3 12 volt batteries hooked up to make 36 volts, some jumper-leads, a shitty old rod thats been sitting in the back of the truck for 3 years, and a glass out of a helmet.......
http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules ... _photo.php
worked a treat

"He who dies with the most toys wins!!"
- Moriarty
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De-Ranged wrote:A comment on rods
I've just been out using some new rods I got given by weldwell to try out
Its a new'ish rod they are selling for low hydrogen applications (structural and hi-tensil) the rods have been double coated with flux the outside coating being a general purpose coating... baked they were just like normal low-hi's, found they were a little easier restarting if you stopped
but where they rocked was site work, cold and open for some time they welded very well especailly restarting, surprisingly good for a low-hi
I'll find out what they are and post it up for you'll
Cheers Reece
Do that, Reece, I will be very interested, Weldwell are Philips, aint they?
Cos 56's are a bugger to restart, have to break the cup of flux offen the end of the rod to get 'em going agin.
Oh and a simple tip that hasn't be discussed Baking rods... if your rods have water stains on the flux or rust on the rod then baking them in an oven for 20min at around 200C will dry them out and improve there welding a hell of alot.... anyone using Low hydrogen rods should be doing this anyway if the packet has been open any length of time Reece
As a general matter of course, I keep all my rods of all types in the hot water cupboard. and wash my airfilters in the dishwasher!!!
Can you get tiny rods for an arc?
before I got my mig I always had trouble burning through small stuff as theyre not that useful on automotive stuff.
Managed to get some 1.6mm rods and I could actually have a shot at scabbing panel steel together, but if you could get 0.6mm rods and a holder that could clamp up on them you could prob do a lot more with one? has this been tried?
Also scabbed a couple 'cutting rods' from a friend and apparently you can cut plate out with them but all I did was catch hair on fire, is there even such a thing as a 'cutting rod'? they were carbon sticks
before I got my mig I always had trouble burning through small stuff as theyre not that useful on automotive stuff.
Managed to get some 1.6mm rods and I could actually have a shot at scabbing panel steel together, but if you could get 0.6mm rods and a holder that could clamp up on them you could prob do a lot more with one? has this been tried?
Also scabbed a couple 'cutting rods' from a friend and apparently you can cut plate out with them but all I did was catch hair on fire, is there even such a thing as a 'cutting rod'? they were carbon sticks
- truck-fixer
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wow! thats increadible.... funny how the smallest plate in the table is 1/2" and you need a mere 300Amps to cut it.
It says DC is always used in arc cutting, which may explain my lack of fun with AC arc. My mig is DC and Ive been thinking of trying to convert it into a combination mig/arc machine because arc seems to be far better at scummy stuff and uphill.
It says DC is always used in arc cutting, which may explain my lack of fun with AC arc. My mig is DC and Ive been thinking of trying to convert it into a combination mig/arc machine because arc seems to be far better at scummy stuff and uphill.
- truck-fixer
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Yeah we have engineers coming into our workshop doing gouging and welding on customers truck and trailer units. Makes one hell of a loud noise but beats gas cutting 10 fold. you can stand 3 bays over from the gouging and still can't hear yourself talk. The engineers dress like they just came from Scott's Base.



arc
you can cut with normal rods , put the smallest rod in the holder turn the power up to max and strike an arc an push the rod through the steel then use the arc to melt and blow the yellow metal away,
89 safari, pto winch, 33x15 simexs. sliders,75mm lift . turbo intercoolered
africa welders
kitset welder africa style




89 safari, pto winch, 33x15 simexs. sliders,75mm lift . turbo intercoolered
Re: africa welders
coxsy wrote:kitset welder africa style
Yep that style works fairly well too. Have had a fair bit of work done with similar machines, not the cleanest but....
Defender 90- winch now fitted