2L-T prob has cracked head - What to do??

Rollux · Post by **Rollux** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 12:43 pm

As above, I am now pretty sure head is cracked, is blowing bubbles back thru the rad which is normally a good sign (or bad, depending on how you look at it!)
I have a budget of about $2k, and I can replace a head/engine myself, but am wondering what I should do.
I know it's hard on the budget I have, but I've just brought a house and don't have a lot of cash to throw around

truck-fixer · Post by **truck-fixer** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 1:31 pm

How do you know it's not a head GASKET?? Get to the bottom of it before buying new parts or engine swaps. May still be a good engine.

Rollux · Post by **Rollux** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 2:48 pm

I have it being checked on Tuesday, and will make sure that is the problem first, but with a 2L-T it's most likely the head (altho I fixed the smoking problem, turned out to be a blocked breather pipe).
I'm just looking at my options and what people suggest. I would def love more power, but not really an option on my budget

philux · Post by **philux** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 4:37 pm

id say go the supra 5m, pretty sure matt4u still has the bell housing for the motor to your box, 5m motor $300-$400 i reckon you could do the conversion for under 2k if you do the work yourself

mudhaw · Post by **mudhaw** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 11:36 pm

Have seen that problem 20+ times and not once has it been the head gasket. If you want more power put a 2.8 into it. If its turboed you wont be disapointed (the 2.4 that is, it bolts stright on to the 2.

JINX · Post by **JINX** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 2:48 pm

Hi, I cooked my 2L-T in the pureora forest. Pulled it down to find it cracked in three places. I then reassembled the engine using a new head gasket (still using the cracked head) and has been fine since. Sounds like a head gasket to me. I've been driving it hard for a year and half since and still going sweet. Mind you if you want to buy a second hand head with only one very very very tiny crack, I have one???. Get a leak down test done on your cooling system and also a compression test done though your glow plugs. - cheers Jinx

warlord225 · Post by **warlord225** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:33 pm

the 3L is pretty much a bolt in job, although you will need to make some brackets and such, but the gearbox and clutch and engine mounts are all the same, then turbo it, and you will not be dissapointed. standard the 3L make more HP than the 2L-t, and with a hairdrier on the side it should go nice

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 5:05 pm

3.8L or 5L v8 Crummydore fits in with a marks 4wd adaptor apparantly

Dace · Post by **Dace** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:33 pm

warlord225 wrote:the 3L is pretty much a bolt in job, although you will need to make some brackets and such, but the gearbox and clutch and engine mounts are all the same

I am not sure of the diff between the 2l and 3l but when i bought my LN106, it had shat the bottom end (30k with out servicing will do that!! :roll:

)

I put a late model 5l in out of a 2001 hiace, ya know its gonna be a late model engine cause thay only came out in 97/98 and go well, i drove some 3l and 5l hiaces for comparision and found the 5l had more legs in the higher rev range.

And it just bolted in, changed over all the alternator/AC/PS engine mounts, sump/oil pickup and thermo housing of the 3l and it just fell in.

So, about turb'n a 3l, what about a 5l-t :twisted:

MATT4U · Post by **MATT4U** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:58 pm

Buy my bellhousing, get an M series, throw it in.
If ya want a hand to install I could be bribed to do that to

Rollux · Post by **Rollux** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:30 pm

I would rather keep it diesel, done diesel to petrol conversions in 2 previous surfs and never had anything but trouble.
Just a thought, I have an LN61 with the early 2LT. I assume the basic block and mounts etc are the same as the later 2, 3 and 5 L's?

warlord225 · Post by **warlord225** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:32 pm

From what I know all of the L series motors are the same basic block design.

the 2L, 3L and 5L all bolt up to the same bell housing and share the same enging mounts blah blah blah.

why would you bother with turboing a 5L what you could just bolt in a 1KZ

Dace · Post by **Dace** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:41 pm

warlord225 wrote:why would you bother with turboing a 5L what you could just bolt in a 1KZ

1, I already got a the 5L

2, cause the 1KZTE wouldn't bolt in, bellhousing, mounts, wiring

3, I have seen forums in Aus and Europe that show more Torque potential from the 5L-T than the 1KZTE, prob is, no one in NZ seems to have done it yet :cry:

warlord225 · Post by **warlord225** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:46 pm

the only reason I can see turboing a 5L is the fact that the injection is computer controlled, I'm pretty sure a rugger manifold would bolt up too.

kaney · Post by **kaney** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:53 pm

warlord225 wrote:standard the 3L make more HP than the 2L-t,

u are partly right

wikipedia wrote:
3l = Output is 89.8 hp (67 kW) at 4000 RPM with 134.9 ftÂ·lb (183 NÂ·m) of torque at 2400 RPM.

2lt = Output is 86 hp (64.1 kW) at 4000 RPM with 139 ftÂ·lb (188.4 NÂ·m) of torque at 2200 RPM.

2lte = output is 97HP (72.3kW) at 3800 RPM and maximum torque is 24.54kg.m (240.3 Nï½¥m) at 2400 RPM.

2L-T prob has cracked head - What to do??

What should I do?

2L-T prob has cracked head - What to do??