Extending Diff Breathers

fweddy · Post by **fweddy** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:03 am

This is the issue that my truck need dealing with at present. Its got water in that diff again and its time to do something about it.

Just wanting some info before going ahead.

The breather is the left hose heading up and has the normal wee cap on the top and is mounted on the crossbar just below floor level.

Is it as simple as removing the hose pictured and replacing it was a longer length of similar hose and using the same hose clamp at the bottom and same wee cap on the top making sure the end is up higher?

I was talking to Matt(4U) the other day (he services our equipment at work) and he recommended to use clear hose so you can see water or any other blockage in there which is a great suggestion.

Is it necessary to use a larger internal diameter hose since its needing to draw from further away?

Do I need different connectors?

What's the go on fuel filters in line? Necessary or just an added protection?

What route have other cruiser owners used to take the hose up and where did you end it? (front and rear)

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:17 am

fweddy wrote: Is it as simple as removing the hose pictured and replacing it was a longer length of similar hose and using the same hose clamp at the bottom and same wee cap on the top making sure the end is up higher?

yep..

fweddy wrote:use clear hose so you can see water or any other blockage in there

its a sound idea.. plan on doin that myself...

fweddy wrote:Is it necessary to use a larger internal diameter hose since its needing to draw from further away?

nope.. it'll just breathe slightly slower....?

fweddy wrote:Do I need different connectors?

you can renew for peace of mind?

fweddy wrote:What's the go on fuel filters in line? Necessary or just an added protection?

added protection..

fweddy wrote:What route have other cruiser owners used to take the hose up and where did you end it? (front and rear)

front runs to top inner of engine bay.. rear runs to just inside tub by the back of seats.. gonna run them right up under the dash behind glovebox on the new 40..

good luck..

take a pic of when ya done.. :wink:

Steve_t647 · Post by **Steve_t647** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:23 am

I did mine front rear and gearbox all into the same tube (one long pipe with T sections) and ran it up to the air intake for the motor and up the inside of the snorkle to the top of the hat.

If I am ever that deep then I will need the snorkle! Also the little "hat" you have closes (restricts) the amount of air into the diff as it cools (restrictive cap if it is the std one) that can pass in to the diff, causing some vacuum and allowing water to be drawn through the seals.

You do need something to stop spiders getting into the tube but that is about all you need at the top. I super glued a little bit of wire mesh over it and it is still there.

sig · Post by **sig** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:07 pm

spiders make good diff lubricant :lol:

fweddy · Post by **fweddy** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 5:28 pm

Top Info thanks Nibby - great to have such a comprehensive answer not just a ramble soem where off track!

Was talking to Matt again today (more servicing) and we talked about going into the snorkel head and the issue that that is where the engine is sucking and hence is a bit of a vacuum so the diff would be competing with the engine, sure it might not be heaps but would it not be better to be somewhere else??

Appreciate your comments re the cap there Steve!

I just got my length of 6mm ID clear hose (forgot to measure before leaving so comparing the Prado I was in I roughly figured it out in my head and got 5m which should be heaps cost $8.50 - cheaper than diff oil any day) Only thing I realise I need now is smaller hose clamps as the clear hose is thinner walled than the original black stuff.

Sunday will prove it - will attempt to remember photos nibby

dazza85 · Post by **dazza85** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 6:07 pm

You can use good quality cable tie, one with the metal tooth,
I have seen these used in lots of situations which does not involve pressure.

Summit033 · Post by **Summit033** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 12:40 am

I had a good idea for the snorkel makers on this one :idea:

- Why don't they incorporate two (or maybee three for gearbox breathers?) seperate pipes or tubes into the mould of the snorkel somehow.

You could then have two (or three) nipples comming out of the snorkel moulding in the engine bay part of the assembly - then simply run your extended breathers up to this point, hose clamp then on, and hey presto :!:

The breather pipes could then exit the snorkel moulding somewhere near the top, possibly out of the back, then this would avoid any interference from the engine sucking. The pipes in the snorkel moulding would be part of the snorkel wall, so as not to affect air flow to the engine.

Just an idea for Mr Snorkel manufacturer..... :wink:

fweddy · Post by **fweddy** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:53 pm

Well I was meant to be working today but that got called off due to some one else being sick and apparently the bug was airborne so I had to stay away! :lol:

So I worked on the breather extension and have a series of photos.

Pic above is of the original rear which I pulled off and replaced with clear 6mm ID hose. Bought 5 meters and was only left with perhaps Â¾m left over.

The new line is here attached to the diff and goes up to the old mount which is where it used to terminate

Here you can see the route from that mount then over the round cross-member tucked behind the fuel breather(?), down and in with the trailer plug lights.

Then it goes up inside the body cavity and pops out with the wee head inside the cabin space at the back rear.

Why did I mount it there? Well I needed to secure it and so I drilled a hole and put the cap on top and then pushed the hose on the bottom so it it is sandwiched in there. Thought it was an easy way to do it but it was a real pig trying to get the hose on the bottom due to funny angles and body strengthening bracket in the back. Its more likely to be cleaner air in the cabin than the inner compartment which was quite dusty. If for some reason it isn't suitable I'll move it later.

fweddy · Post by **fweddy** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:01 pm

Here is the original front short extension. You can just see the top cap above the PTO shaft.

I connected to the diff and took the same route up and through the top mount to hold it in place.

Then on up and between the batteries (you can just make out the mount to the extreme left and then see the hose continue down to the diff)

After going between the batteries it goes along the side wall and into a rubber grommet (which conveniently had a blanked off place for a hose of about that size to go through)

Through the fire wall and up into the back of the dash. I removed the vent and attached the top in there. used tin can top to cut a strip of metal, wrapped it round the hose and drilled through the tails and riveted them to the dash. Also put some padded double sided tape at the end to stop it rattling

The reason for the exercise?

For those of you not familiar - the colour of the oil in the lid is the colour used oil should be!

kiwipete · Post by **kiwipete** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:19 pm

A job well done.

I have been meaning to extend my breathers for the front of the truck into the cabin for ages. :shock:

Rear breather was done after the first outing into water. at only 6" long, it wasnt of much use at all.

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 9:14 pm

sweet tidy job dude... nice..

have discussed another option with a few forum members often and h2o had the breathers run into a central box and then havin a low pressure (very low) fed into gearboxes and diffs to create a postive pressure in them.. then minimal chance of water inhalation from seals etc...

after all, he is 'h2olova'... :roll:

rangimotors · Post by **rangimotors** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 9:19 pm

can i ask where you get the gear? conectors and tubeing? i should do mine as well before i get the same problems..

kiwipete · Post by **kiwipete** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 9:22 pm

niblik wrote: had the breathers run into a central box and then havin a low pressure (very low) fed into gearboxes and diffs to create a postive pressure in them.. then minimal chance of water inhalation from seals etc...

What was the source of the "low pressure"?
I have thought of using a 12V aquarium air pump (for my headlights), but they are not available here in NZ.

dazza85 · Post by **dazza85** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 9:25 pm

Nice job, very tidy.

rangimotors wrote:can i ask where you get the gear? connectors and tubing? i should do mine as well before i get the same problems..

Most plumbing supplies can supply the tubing and connectors that you need

I have to do mine real soon too

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 9:49 pm

kiwipete wrote:What was the source of the "low pressure"?

i believe he had a low pressure low volume 12 volt air pump running off his power inverter thingy whatsit thingymajiggy.....

thats right, no help what so ever!! lmao

rangimotors · Post by **rangimotors** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 9:51 pm

low pressure 12v pumps from time to time i rig up fish tank pumps they do a pretty good job

kiwipete · Post by **kiwipete** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:47 am

rangimotors wrote:low pressure 12v pumps from time to time i rig up fish tank pumps they do a pretty good job

Where did you get the 12V air pumps from? I have tried all aquarium and pet shos in Chch only to be told they are not available in NZ.

philux · Post by **philux** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 7:10 am

think rick at 4wd acc has got them, was telling me about the idea, run a line into the snorkel to supply air

wjw · Post by **wjw** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 8:19 am

kiwipete wrote:
rangimotors wrote:low pressure 12v pumps from time to time i rig up fish tank pumps they do a pretty good job

Where did you get the 12V air pumps from? I have tried all aquarium and pet shos in Chch only to be told they are not available in NZ.

I got one ro $10 in the Katmandu sale...

fweddy · Post by **fweddy** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 8:36 am

have discussed another option with a few forum members often and h2o had the breathers run into a central box and then havin a low pressure (very low) fed into gearboxes and diffs to create a postive pressure in them.. then minimal chance of water inhalation from seals etc...

funny you should mention that as I was talking to some one about that last evening too!

can i ask where you get the gear? conectors and tubeing? i should do mine as well before I get the same problems..

I didn't need any connectors as the cruisers already have a short extension so I just needed to replace & extend that hose. I paid $8.50 at Hammer Hardware for 5m, that was all the cost involved. I think the hiluxs need connectors as the breathers are direct into the diff housing.

badnuz · Post by **badnuz** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:08 am

these " connector" things you mention for hilux's, where can i get me some? this diff breather deal looks like something my meager talents could achive, and i just did myh diff oils so want to preserve them :

fweddy · Post by **fweddy** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:11 pm

Sorry i can't help there - didn't have to do it so didn't look, but what you could do is get under and remove the current breather so you know the right thread and take it to a 4wd specialist or even a gas fitting type place where they might have connectors from thread to hose joints. I understand you need an elbow for the front and can either use elbow or straight for the rear. Some hilux chaps here will be able to point you in the right direction.

And yeah - its easy - just takes time.

rangimotors · Post by **rangimotors** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:15 pm

always just gone into any pet shop and grabbed one of there pumps off the shelf ill try and track one down if need be so i can give a make and model, im sure if you went into a pet shop and asked they would have no idea what you were on about..

badnuz · Post by **badnuz** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:51 pm

i removed the breather cap can i just zip tie a tube over the sticky out bit and run it to points higher? i checked out the tow hook at the front and its not rated so will sort that and get a rated one with a couple of 8.8 bolts....

kiwipete · Post by **kiwipete** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:35 pm

rangimotors wrote:always just gone into any pet shop and grabbed one of there pumps off the shelf ill try and track one down if need be so i can give a make and model, im sure if you went into a pet shop and asked they would have no idea what you were on about..

From memory, the 230V airpumps commonly sold operate from AC current only and will not operate off the likes of a 12VDC supply.

I did ask all the pet shops here in Chch as well as the Aquarium shops and most looked at me blankly when I asked for a 12VDC airpump. They said "what amount of cubic feet air do you want", I said that dosent matter as long as it is 12VDC. The reply was "we only sell them by the cubic foot of air pumped"
Dopey buggers, I just walked out in a huff.

I would have thought they would be fairly common as they are used widely overseas as a backup with power cuts for large aquariums.

rangimotors · Post by **rangimotors** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:38 pm

sorry i should of said, most have a 230 input but then its steped down to 12v dc so if you cut out or just dont use the 230 input and connect directly to the 12v input your sweet

kiwipete · Post by **kiwipete** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:53 pm

rangimotors wrote:sorry i should of said, most have a 230 input but then its steped down to 12v dc so if you cut out or just dont use the 230 input and connect directly to the 12v input your sweet

Well if thats the case, problem solved. I will pull one of my spare ones apart tomorrow and have a look see. Cheers.

rangimotors · Post by **rangimotors** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:56 pm

obviously cant speak for all of them but they few types i have used have worked that way but as you say pull it apart and get the meter out to make sure

rangimotors · Post by **rangimotors** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:58 pm

but then i use them for flushing hydraulic print circuits far from a factory tool but nothing wrong with getting creative

wjw · Post by **wjw** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:04 am

As I said before 12v air bed pumps ;-)

$10 Kathmandu

Extending Diff Breathers

Extending Diff Breathers

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