Hooks, shackles and Pintles

[fweddy]

I've just got some hooks for the back of my truck. Its got mounting places on the rear bar already. But if I mount them there I fear I'll end up using them as rippers?



Maybe that's what they weren't on there when I got it? The previous owner used shackles on that hole just above the hook.

Also it had a pintle visible in this shot



But I took that off as I couldn't tow a trailer with it on.



I was thinking of cutting that rear bar and recessing the pintle against the original chassis crossmember - I know it sounds crazy to cut a solid bar but if I can't tow a trailer its no good. I'll leave as much steel there as possible but if it goes that far forward then I can use both, and it will be mounted to the original factory tow point anyway.



Are pintles suitable for snatching with?

Also are the front hooks (think they are factory) suitable as they are?

.

They are not stamped with a rating but are the same design as the hooks you buy and I understand from tests done that those with a stamp and those without were very little different?

Just throwing up some thoughts for comment here - thanks

[albundy]

You can get pintles with tow balls incorporated into them rated to 15,000lbs. I would pass the hooks with rated bolts to mount them (other's wouldn't hey Jerry ). I would look at building a whole new rear bar with a hayman reese type setup. That way you can sway the tow hook and tow bar around when you need to and give you much better departure angle as it will get rid of that towball tongue. Shackles are a pain in the arse, especially when it is under water or mud. My thoughts on your question.
Al

[Jungle]

Good call.

Pintle hooks are the way to go. Simple to use and the snatch never falls off. I had upside down hooks on the back of my cruiser and it is a waste of time.
They don't rip the ground but nothing stays on them. And putting keepers on them doesn't help because it makes them hard to use, especially when under water.

My simplest solution would be to extend the length or drop of your current tow bar. Get the trailer hitch away from the pintle. And its only two bolts to undo the tow hitch when your off roading.


Cheers
G

[Jungle]

Back to the front tow hooks. I would also be happy with the front hooks. I would however wind out the bolts and check them. They are 20 years old and have most likely been quietly rusting away. I think those ones only go through the top chassis rail and into some captive nuts.

G

[Steve_t647]

What about making the towball and tongue removeable and having another tongue with a tow hook on it?

That would save chopping the bar and the low towbar being dragged

[TJ]

What about making the towball and tongue removeable and having another tongue with a tow hook on it?

That would save chopping the bar and the low towbar being dragged

Do you mean something like this:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92121_50.htm

A better picture is here:

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=4360

[rowinz]

the rear chassis cross members are not solid piece on 70s. Not good to snatch off. I've sent bent cross members from rear snatches off hooks mounted here. Bitch to then repair or replace. The factory tow point is just that - a tow point. Same arguement goes for not recovering off tow balls. Good for towing, not snatching.
Will the hook fit as you've shown it but facing up?

Front hooks: may be factory, but bolts look imperial. Japs have been metric for ever. Bolts should be replaced if history is not know. Check they are not using captive nuts on chassis rail, as these are not good for mounting hooks.
R

[fweddy]

Will the hook fit as you've shown it but facing up?

Tried that, is too close to the bar to get any thing on it and if I mount it on top of the bar the door doesn't clear!

[Bubba]

What about at the ends of the chassis, pointing out, if you get my drift