drag link arm
Moderator: Mark
drag link arm
Does anyone make a front drag link arm thats stronger than the originals, $455 for a new one!!! Ball joints on mine are had it. Or anyone with a secondhand one lying around?
cheers
96 patrol coil springs (different arm to leafs apparently)
cheers
96 patrol coil springs (different arm to leafs apparently)
DaveM wrote:Got my drag link confused with the other arm in front of the diff which has permanent jointsSo as GQ said, go for new tie rod ends
You reminded me of something Dave....the rod ends for both front and rear linkages are of the same bolt dia and taper. So if you're cashed up, then get 2 sets of rod ends and 2 lengths of 4140 for a pair of heavy duty linkages that should handle most abuse. Just watch the rear linkage doesn't get friendly with the lower shock mount.
rod ends
let me know what thread and size you need n ill get u a dam good deal
Terrano TD 2.7 and a ssangyong Rexton
[Got my drag link confused with the other arm in front of the diff which has permanent joints ]
Nope your not confused, I meant the arm in front of the diff, thought its called drag link??
EBI engineering on Espon st in chch can recondition drag link arms, $185 plus so alot cheaper than a new one, but i sent the wife in to find out about it so maybe thats for tie rod ends, I confused now. anyway i got one from the wreakers cheap till i build a stronger one.
tie rod info also good as I'm sure i will break one sooner or later aswell [/quote]
Nope your not confused, I meant the arm in front of the diff, thought its called drag link??
EBI engineering on Espon st in chch can recondition drag link arms, $185 plus so alot cheaper than a new one, but i sent the wife in to find out about it so maybe thats for tie rod ends, I confused now. anyway i got one from the wreakers cheap till i build a stronger one.
tie rod info also good as I'm sure i will break one sooner or later aswell [/quote]
How can you "recondition" a POS one piece cast drag-link? They are not rebuildable.
Other than welding a section of angle to a standard one as Dave suggested, thats about as strong as you can make a std one without cutting and sleeving it (which you can't do for a WOF).
Atleast with the male rod ends from Nissan, you can replace them as and when they flog out.
Other than welding a section of angle to a standard one as Dave suggested, thats about as strong as you can make a std one without cutting and sleeving it (which you can't do for a WOF).
Atleast with the male rod ends from Nissan, you can replace them as and when they flog out.
you can buy a strong aftermarket one for $350ishNZ
http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/s ... =2a&page=7
http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/s ... =2a&page=7